violacleff

You know what, ignore what I said about the fuel pressure, I'm not 100% sure on where it was, my apologies. I'll have to check again when I go back the shop. I'm definitely not looking for luxury car leves. In fact, I was worried that this car was going to sound wimpy compared to my NA! This sucker is wake the dead loud at almost idle and the resonator only made it sound annoying, but not much quieter. The reason I bring it up, is grumpy vette wrote an article a while ago about loud cars and bad tunes, or something to that nature and I thought mine was out of the norm loud for a turbo car. I will hook up my A/F meter as soon as I get home so I can see exactly how rich its running. But the idle doesn't really sound that great, and its definitely running too rich by the smell. Could this have to do with a bov adjustment? I was just thinking, maybe the car is leaking vaccuum from the bov and throwing off the meter at idle. Is this possible?

So I went to the shop to pic up my z (240z, l28et 3.1l, z31ecu) and ran into a bunch of problems. Well I couldn't drive it home cause there was mad water leakage around the thermostat and housing, and furthermore the water temp gauge doent work anymore with the new harness. I have a greddy one at home though but didn't want to drive home under these conditions. Also the brakes had almost nothing to them. They were incredibly soft and took forever to stop from a slow roll. I can address that one as well. Two real problems are, the car is running rich and I cant figure out why. I have stock injectors and 20psi fuel pressure. Also the car is super loud! I mean louder than my 3.0NA with a 2 1/2 piping and flowmaster. Granted its a 3 in. all the way back through a straight thru muffler, but not even the resonator could help it. I thought turbo motors were quiet? Could this be symptoms of other problems in the motor? I ran a 3/8 return line to the tank, thinking that would solve my rich problem but it didn't. What gives? Well it did feel good to test drive my car after a year and a half but not under such worrysome conditions.

Hey bartman we live in the same city. What do you drive? BTW I just ordered some porterfield R4S's from TEP and called it a day for now. That should do till I can afford the Wilwood kit

Well I know their cust serv. sucks and shipping isn't an issue because they are 20min from my house. In fact that is why I wanted to know if there was any difference between the actual products. If not I rather not wait for any shipping and just get the MSA kit. If MM's kit is superior though I would spring for that. Also I was told that it would be a good idean to save up and spend extra on the wilwood kit. Is this a huge/necessary upgrade from the 4x4? or just a waste of money for mostly street use?

Well I figure I should upgrade my front brakes with my turbo swap and was looking at the 4x4 toyota upgrade. I don't want to scavenge the jy so I was looking at MSA's kit and Ross' kit. There's a $45 dollar difference but they seem to have different parts. Is one or both not complete? What else will I have to buy to make it work? Which kit is superior or are they both selling the same stuff? I'm a dummy when it comes to brakes and will be having a shop install it. I just want to make sure I have everything I need. What do you all suggest? This car is for street/strip no autoxing.

About how many runs in a season?

What are the pros and cons for the 280z tranny on the quarter mile/freeway? I have one behind my 240z turbo. I had an NA 280zx tranny but my short shift kit wouldn't fit it so I put in the 280z tranny. I suppose I should have asked before hand but oh well. BTW my parents stuck my zx tranny outside while I was away and it got pounded by the rain. Is it ruined from the water? Or would it be ok? Also can the tranny be rebuilt with beefier parts and is it worth getting one rebuilt or just buying them from the jy? My motor should be making around 400hp when I get a stand alone and I will be doing some racing.

I have an ACT 6 puck cluth on a 280z 5 speed. When the car is off it will go into gear, but when its on, you can't get it into first to save its life. What did I do wrong? BTW i have the msa short shift kit if it matters at all.

What are your mods?

Is that on or off boost? I'm just wondering if the newer turbos on an sr20 would be more efficient than the t3 on a stock l28? BTW the wiring on the sr20z is a stand alone ems. But alex can tell you how hard or easy it was.

So after a long and bloody battle with the wiring harness on my stroker turbo project, I finally found a shop to wire it and do the exhaust for a good price. Well I had LSD on my future list of "things I need to get into 11's" and the dude from the shop was asking me about my LSD rearend. I said "I got LSD?" Hey thats the best news I've gotten about my car in the last 2 years. The wiring is finished now and the exhaust is almost done (3 inch mandrel). I should know by tomorrow if it runs ok. I had it towed up there to get it done. Hopefully I'll be on the road by this weekand. Just in time with the dry weather

This is a great thread. I am getting my z31ecu wired this week. Since I drive my car everyday I'm not sure a stand alone is my best option. I already have a z31 maf and rc500cc injectors. Can JWT make a program based on what I already have or would I have to buy another set of injectors and cobra maf? If bernard could program for what I have, I prefer buy his chip. If I buy all the other stuff though, I'll probably just go stand alone.

Yeah I'm rollin with the punches and I've suffered no real catastrophes, its just bad car luck. I'm very fortunate as a person all things considered hey Mike, let me know how hard it is to setup/program that microtech. I'm inbetween that and Haltech. One good thing comes out of the bad car luck and that is that i'm getting a settlement from the accident, so not all is lost. I'm sure once I finally get to drive my car I'll forget all of my woes of trying to build it

Anyone ever used this for a turbo application? What were your thoughts on the quality/sound?

Well, I've been working on getting my turbo'd 240 running since June. I made the huge mistake of trying to do a swap on my daily driver and have paid the price dearly. Anyway, I was down to the wiring to get it running. A shop priced me at $300 and $100 to pick the car up. I knew another guy whom I had met at a car club about it and he said he would do it and wire my gauges for $150. I was so happy. Anyway he came and wired the car, and said it should work now, but I was missing a sensor. So I buy the sensor and guess what? The car doesn't run. I can't get in touch with him, Ive bought two cars this month that died on me and got wrecked within 3 weeks and I ended up paying the shop to do my car and when they came and picked it up today, the front MSA spoiler got ripped off when the dude was trying to load it on the dolley. I'm just glad to see the car out of my driveway now, and I'm even having thoughts wishing that I would get a phone call that my Z was stolen. I have it insured for 14k. I really rather have it run but I'm starting to think it never will and I wont realize it till another $X,000 later. Well thats all had to get it off my chest.

OK, so I'm guessing I still wired the ECU incorrectly for power. There was a wire behind the stereo that said ACC+ that I wired the ECU to. At that point the ECU did turn on when only when the ignition was in the on position, however, it would not fire when I tried to turn it over. Did I wire it wrong again? Is there an actual ACC+ terminal that its supposed to go to? And if so where would I find it. Didnt see it in my manual

Well in addition to the host of problems I have with my wiring, when my car is on it runs very rich. 45 psi at idle. Now my FPR is closed all the way down so I cant lower it from there. It was suggested to me that my return line might be clogged. So I'm going to check that out. I was also wondering if this 90 degree bend in my routing may be the cause Any other suggestions? When I kill the fuel pump when the car is running it starts idling just fine, until it dies.

Well thats how I currently have my fuel pump wired but not to the ACC. I know its not safe, but it wont turn on any other way.

Exactly what read would I be looking for to know whether or not the injectors were staying open/firing? I'd be really pissed if these injectors are bad, I bought them from someone who said they only had 500 miles on them. Honestly all this work to get the stock/z31 system running off of someone else who had previously messed with the harness, I should have done a megasquirt, and could have just used my RC500cc injectors which are brand new.

Thanks for the replies. Here's my update. The car wouldn't start when I ran power to the ACC though the lights were on only when the start position was on which was what I wanted. However, the fuel pump would not turn on when wired the way you posted and I wouldn't get any spark. So I wired back the way I had it and it turned on. Here's another wierd thing... The car ran really rough, and wouldn't idle well. Then when I turned off the fuel pump vial the kill switch (since the car doesn't shut off when wired this way) the car ran great while the fuel pump was off!! and for a shocking long time. Also the fan wouldn't turn on when wired with the relay but works going straight to the battery. Could all this mean I have a bad relay(s)? What do you all think? BTW, we ran the wire to the ACC behind the stereo.

I have some greddy 60mm gauges that my friend gave me. I thought I'd take out the clock and put the oil/water temp gauge in there. BTW would it look bad if I put to gauges on the dash? (Its cracked so that part's no biggie)

Please excuse my ignorance but what is ACC+? I do have it running to the battery, so perhaps this is my problem. I thought ACC+ meant AC power (hence why I ran it to the batter). I've never wired before so if I sound really stupid........

Well its exciting to hear the car run after a year and a half of not running. However I've yet to figure out how to wire the ECU so that its only on when the car is in start position and now it seems that something in the ignition isn't right because the car wouldn't turn off by key, I had to disconnect the battery. Could these two problems be related? Is there a thousand different reasons why the car woulnd'nt cut off when I turned the key when it was in the off position? Or are there a few obvious reasons that someone may be able to point out?

I figured that was the problem (or at least one of them). Its figuring out why thats the real problem. This project has gone from fun to way beyond frustrating. Well end of Jan=tax return=haltech=over the phone support. At least I got something to look forward to.

just to make sure, am I supposed to be using the firing order from the Z31 or the 83 dizzy? Are they different? I checked the MAF and it was on correctly.