violacleff

I was thinking along the same lines at first also, but when you think of it, the sr20's/KA's put out significantly less torque at those hp levels. That is what i'm concerned about. Since they are snapping trannies at 400hp my guess is your's will snap much sooner behind the L6. But since its already in there, I'm curious to see just how long it holds. If it lasts 4-6 months then I suppose its worth it if the trannies can be had that cheap.

You mentioned that you you're using the 240sx tranny. I'm curious to see how well it will hold up to the kind of torque you are going to be putting out. If it handles ok, I'd like to do the same swap, but my guess is there's no way its going to hold up to 450+lbs of torque. I just decided for myself that i'd drive like a granny ti'll I can afford to do a tremec setup like Jeff P's. These zx trannies are getting too old, and I suck at swapping them anyway. Glad to see you're trying before me though. Please keep us posted on the results. I'm sure you will. Dave

Looks awesome. Will 440cc injectors be enough to support 20psi through that turbo though?

Its an '88

Why don't I give you the cell phone number to the guy that stole mine. Supposedly he didn't really need it after all maybe he'll sell it to you, then you can tell what address it gets sent from. Actually theres a dude on zcar.com that usually has some if you look in the classifieds there. Mr zandzx parts probably has one and lives nearby you.

Actually Catman there was a discussion like that on zcar.com about Ford being "Gay cars" that turned into the funniest thread I had ever read. Although I love religious and political debate, I think dr. hunt is right. I'm personally a thick skinned person who is very hard to offend. But others are more sensitive than some, and really can't deal with heated/emotional debates. Also Dr. hunt made a great point about people typing things they would never say to person's face. Perhaps those who want to discuss these topics should end their post with first and last name, and a picture

I'm with Jmortensen. I thought the debats were great during the election, and well I've seen name calling and hissy fits over car related subjects. I can understand though if politics and religion become a chore to moderate more so than tech. subjects, but I love to talk politics and religion personally.

Ok, so I stuck an '85 200sx slave on and as I was bleeding it from underneath(my friend was pushing the clutch) I noticed that it broke on the extend. Now I have my clutch pedal adjusted all the way and I'm trying to figure out if "that" is whats actually causing it to overextend and break, if so would simply fabricating a longer rod and giving the pedal more play fix the problem? It seems it would.

I thought the big advangtage of this swap is that fact that it is FREE. The fact is he doesn't have a free sr20, rb25/26. I guess the question I'd like to know is, what is your real purpose for the car? Will it function as a daily driver? If so, I say swap it in if you have the means to do so. I don't have any car to drive, and if I got a free motor and could make it work, I'd be sticking it in for sure, especially if it was an na car anyway. If this is an extra car though, I'd like to know whats your purpose, other than "noone has ever done it before." Obviously noone has done it for good reasons. If you have a set budget (Free) and just want to roll, I say swap it in.

Yeah but will it flash big letters that say "DANGER TO MANIFOLD!"? Just kiddin. Thats pretty cool right there. MS is getting to be a more attractive system, especially if you're computer savvy. The cool thing about it is you can buy it for cheap and have another 500 left over for other stuff opposed to haltech/microtech.

what year carries smaller slaves? I just talked to mike's z shop and he said that the collar in the 280z and zx were the same. I'm currently using a zx slave. Is the 200sx slave the one you are referring to?

I'm ready to go the extreme solution and sell my car. Unfortunately I've F****d it up so bad its not worth a dime anymore. Anyways I'm trying to figure out exactly what motion is breaking the slave? The slave I have already has an adjustable rod, although I have the pedal adjusted all the way out because the clutch wouldn't fully engage. I don't understand how I could use a grade 8 bolt to lenthen it. If I were to weld a half in or so to the rod and then give my clutch pedal more free play would this solve my problem without having to change the t/o bearing? Or is my understanding of the problem way off?

Ok now wer'e getting somewhere. PeterZ, you were correct, I did have to fully adjust my clutch pedal out. It seems that my problem is probably wrong T/O bearing collar. So you are saying that lengthening the rod will/might fix this problem without having to drop the tranny?

Yeah I changed the T/O bearing when I swapped trannies.

So are you suggesting I change the fork?

After installing my new/used 280zx tranny, for some reason the slave keeps breaking, and leaking all the fluid out from behind the rod. I have tried 3 different slaves now and the same thing happens on each one. The first one it happened to was working just fine before I swapped the tranny. It will work fine for a few blocks/miles and then take an instant crap. I cant figure out what i'm doing wrong. One guy on zcar.com suggested that the rod was being overextended, but the first one broke (which previously worked great) without me ever adjusting anything. I did however adjust the clutch pedal afterwards because It wouldn't fully disengage. But lets say this guy is right. What if I were to give the clutch more play and weld an inch more of metal to the slave so that it pushes the fork sooner and doesn't "overextend" (if there be such a thing). Is there any other reason such a thing could keep happening other than my car being cursed?

Have you come up with a budget of how much it would cost to finish? I know what you're going through. I am currently car poor, mostly because I lost my job though. So actually I'm just poor at this point. Fortunately you have a second car to drive around. My z's my daily. If your folks aren't bugging you to get the car out of the garage (like mine were) then why not keep it and finish it over time? If you're planning on going off too college though for a while i'd say cut your losses and sell it. I had a 57 GMC that I was building and had spent about 6k and many hours working on. My parents let me keep it in the garage till i finished college. I thought I'd get a good job after I graduated but I didn't. I ended up selling the truck for 4k and putting that money into my Z (which dissapeared quite fast). At your age and mine, its hard having such a hobby that drains the bank account when you have school to pay for and trying to get started in life.

I say go RB just to keep my post relevant. However.....When the heck are you going to finish the hulk? Or did I miss something and she's already done(driving)? Dang I can't even get my one car running for more than a week. Anyway you already got a cool L motor car, although turbo. An L should never be chosen over an RB if its going to cost the same in my opinion unless however you plan on being a datsun mechanic and want to show off how much power you can extract from an NA L and wish to compete with the likes of Rebello, Subelt etc...

So I've been looking at prices on garret turbos an noticed that none of the ball bearing turbos come in T4 (turbine). Is there any reason for this? I went to thagards sight as well as cheapturbos.com and noticed that thagard had a garret T04E and cheapturbos had a T4/GT40. There is a price difference of about $200 (the GT40 being the more expensive). Now I understand that only the turbos with the "R" designation are ball-bearing but the GT wheel design is still supposedly more advanced and faster spooling than the "E" wheels. Is this correct? The other option I see is the T04R wheels for about $100 more. I'm not sure the difference of an R wheel and a GT wheel (or really and E wheel for that matter only that its an old desing). So to put the question(s) in clear form.......Is there a T4 ball bearing turbo? and where can I learn about the difference in these wheels as to make an informed decision on turbo purchashing? I know I can call a salesman and ask, but I'm not quite ready to buy yet and would like to do some reading up unless there is a simple explanation someone here could give. If a 1.15ar housing won't get full spool ti'lll 5k then I'm definitely going to have to change turbos. Thanks

bastaad, do you already have the dizzy and haven't swapped it out yet? Or are you waiting on purchasing it? BTW, I have all that stuff lying around (88 ecu and MAF) if anyone needs one. Just make me an offer.

Very cool. I gotta come over some time and check it out. John Coffey's shop's 40 miles away? Where's that?

This is a 3.1L

hmm I was told it was a T04E with a P trim. I guess I'll have to tune the car and see how it spools and take it from there. I don't feel comfortable taking it apart to measure. If it spools ok, I'll just be happy not knowing.

doesn't say anything on the cold side

Ok so I bought my turbo from a dude from this site and really didn't know the specs past the fact that it was a t4 p-trim and that the turbo was quite huge. I still don't really know what all those specs mean anyway. While I was changing my tranny I noticed on the hot side it said 1.15 AR. Does that indicate the size of the wheel trim? Or the housing?