violacleff

he wants 400 for it. You think thats a good deal?

Well i've finally settled on the fact that my Z will not be running for a long long time. I paid my friend 200 bucks to use his 92 corrola LE for the month and I got rearended about 7 days later. I've been using the rental that the insurance gave him but today's my last day. The car was totalled out but still runs well. If a car is hit at 35-45 by a honda civic do you think there could be any significant damage to the suspension that would make it unsafe to drive? I think I could buy the car off of him for $300 and use it as a beater/daily driver until the curse lifts off my Z . What do you guys think? OH yeah the two right doors don't really shut perfectly anymore but they will close is that a frame issue?

Tim is that Dry Wash N Gaurd or something different? I use to sell it like 6 years ago. Didn't know they were still around. I still use the stuff on my car. Love the shine. Hey how do you handle a really muddy or dirty car though when your detailing with it?

Damn that sucks. Same thing happened to me the night after christmas. I was sitting at a red light and heard that beautiful noise that one hears just before whiplash. Well it wasn't my Z, but my friends car that I had paid him to borrow while I'm getting my Z running and now I'm carless. Had it been my Z though.......

Thanks for the reply. The obvious stuff is what I'm looking for Grayzee. I'm still quite the novice. I'm 100% sure I didn't install the CAS upside down as I was conscious of that the whole time. I rechecked the firing order twice. All the wire were pulled apart and retraced and were as I posted them in the turbo section I believe. I will however recheck the MAF. What about the ECU turning off as I try and start the car? Is this a major clue? I still have yet to figure why it is on (both lights) when the car is on. I'm sure its a mistake in the wiring but I'm not sure as to what's the proper way at this point. I'm also curious as to whether or not I put a bad CAS in the dizzy or the wrong one. Everything else engine wise is together.

Ok, I put in the stock injectors, car makes a bunch of popping and clicking noises but doesn't start. I checked each seperate cylinder and the coil for spark and everything's good there. I'm getting 45 psi fuel reading. Here's what I noticed, When I crank the car, the ECU lights turn off. I've still yet to figure out how to wire it properly so that the lights are not on when the car is off and today I find that the lights go off when the car is turned on. Go figure. This really sucks. I was sure the car was gonna start tonight.

I did contact Bernard about the chip but he only works with 370's and ford type injectors 440's. I have RC500's, which by his email he sounded like he didn't want to go through the hassle of programming for. He said it would be a hassle figuring out other injectors. Otherwise I would have gone that route (assuming I ever got the car wired correctly). The wires going straight to the power are Pin #2,27,35, and 34. Pin 34 has a fuse before the battery. Is there another way I'm supposed to wire those? Hey I'm just thinking. When we tried to start the car, we had not yet hooked up the CHTS. I had just bought the harness from Nissan but we hadn't wired it yet and it was getting late. Might that be causing a warning signal? Also If stick the stock injectors in and am running a T4, would I have enough fuel to be safe as long as I keep the boost at stock level?

Yes it does have spark and fuel.when I try to start it the engine goes "put put.......put put" and I can smell some exhaust. I thought at first it was the injectors keeping it from firing, so I'm buying stock injectors to use until l can afford a stand alone. I just didn't think I was supposed to be seeing the ecu lights when the car was off. Furthermore only the green light should be on correct? I have green and red showing at the same time.

I finally wired the car and got power to the ECU and both red and green lights are on. The question is, are both of these lights supposed to be on? And am I supposed to run a special relay so that the ECU is not on when the car is not on? As of now the ecu lights up as soon as the battery is connected. I'm reading the manual that says one flash from both lights means a afaulty CAS, but its not flashing. It just remains on.

First of all I apologize if this thread is out of place, but there are so many options I'm not sure where it would go, but since most guys here have an l28et....... My last thread discussed some of my prior problems which I have worked out I believe. I'm finally getting spark and when I turn the motor I am getting a "Put Put.....Put Put PUt" sound and can smell exhaust (no exhaust hooked up yet). Now here's the deal. My origina setup was going to consist of a Z31ECU, E-manage piggyback fuel management, and RC 500cc injectors. The going concensus has been that a piggy back is a bad idea. So I was trying to see if the car would fire (I knew it would not idle) with those injectors since I don't have stock ones, just to see if the car worked and was wired properly. Well the car didn't completely fire I just got the reaction that I mentioned above. Should the car have at least fired or is this what should have happened with such large injectors? and am I just a set of stock injectors away from the car running? If so, my next question is.... Since I cannot yet afford a stand alone system I was just going to buy a set of stock injectors and run stock boost until I get a haltech. However I have a huge T4, and was concerned whether or not I would have enough fuel out of stock injectors. I figured it shouldn't be a biggie as long as I'm running stock boost (6-7 psi). Is this ok? Or will it run lean regardless?

I'm leaning towards that, although that will be another x amount of months before I can get my car runnning. While I'm saving up for a haltech though, perhaps I can get some stock injectors from the junk yard and run stock boost. Will it make any difference that I'm using a larger turbo (T4)? If not, I should be able to safely run up to 10 psi before running out of fuel right? I have found a dealer that has the e6x for 1250 for everything. Too bad noone does credit or finance like they do for stereos and rims.

So I decided to trace the wires to make sure it was hooked up correctly. Here are the wires in question according to an online link given to me for the 88 Z31 (though mine's an 87). 1. Pin#9 (which is ignition switch) is hooked up to the harness but cut off. 2. Pin#15 is missing. Is this necessary and if so where does it go? 3. Pin#16 is supposedly supposed to go to the air regulator but is going to the green relay (that goes with the fusible link). 4. Theres a small harness that is not hooked up to anything that has five wires leading into it. Wire #1 is w/y which goes to pin #6. Wire #2 is b/w which is crimped up with 3 other wires, one of which goes to the cas, the other goes to pin #35 and the last goes to pin#27. Wire#3 is L/B which splits into two, one of which goes to pin#18 and the other goes to TVS. Wire#4 is y. It's cut off and leads nowhere. Wire#5 is B, and is also cut off leading nowhere. 5. Pin#21, 22, and 23 are cut off and not being used. 6. What does CHTS stand for? 7. Pin#28 goes to #36 (as it should) but also splits into another wire thats not being used. 8. Pin#29 is cut off and not used. 9. Pin#115 has no wire to the harness. Is there anything here that needs to be corrected? And could anyone answere some of the questions? Thanks. OK and while I have all of your attention. I have read mixed opinions on the site regarding using a piggy back for bigger injectors. The person who sold me the harness also sold me the greddy E-manage with/ optional ignition harness with the wiring already modified for it. He said it should be good for running up to 21 lbs of boost. I only plan to run 15lbs-18lbs on the street. Is the piggy back idea bad? I've seen the E-manage on high boost engines, but one member advised that it was a bad idea. Any other thoughts on this? I'm running RC500cc injectors, and T4 turbo.

Thanks for the replies. Actually my fuel pump would start up as soon as the battery was connected and would not turn off after I shut the car off. I tried to get some info on how to properly wire the relay and pump in earlier post but could not get any good answers so I setup the fuel pump on a kill switch to fix that problem. I will check out those suggestions you gave me Afshin. I hope I can figure this out. Thanks a lot

The fuel pump is turning on. I have plenty of fuel pressure, but I'm getting no spark. I checked the firing order, and tried turning the dizzy while the ignition was turning but it wont fire. I am not getting spark from either the dizzy or the coil. One of the wires that comes from the ignition module to the ecu was out, and we figured that was the problem. So I purchased a z31 chilton manual and as luck would have it, it had the wiring diagrams for everything but the ecu. I have a scan of a diagram a friend sent me but it is not clear as to the exact pin that it goes into. I was pretty sure that it was 5th slot but it didn't fire when I tried. As far as the ECU is concerned, I'm not sure how I would even know whether or not it even worked. I don't remember there even being a light on my ecu. If there is, it sure didn't light up. I'm going to go check it out right now. Yo2001, whats an FSM? factory service manual?

Well after having gone 5 all nighters trying to wire the zxt/z31ecu with no success, I've decided to sell off all my electronics and just wait till I can afford a haltech. I think the problem is that I bought the harness from someone who supposedly had already modified the harness for the Z31 ecu and Maf. I also paid someone who had done it before, to come down from LA and finish wiring it for me. Since I didn't start from stock, I have no idea how to trouble shoot this thing to figure out why it won't start. I figure if I bouhgt a stand alone, at least I'll know that everything is supposed to work and I can get product support. Anyhow I found a dealer that sells the Haltech e6x for $1250 that includes everything to get running and tune. This is the best deal I've found so far. Does anyone know of a better deal? Also anyone know of any dealers that do credit? I've never heard of it before but I know that stores finance desktops and laptops, why not ecu's? Well if anyone is smarter than me and needs a wiring harness for this setup, let me know. Alex Costa, how is this price compared to yours for the haltech?

Do you just need a picture of it? I believe I have a pic of it on my computer. I'll send you a pm

Damn I wish he'd of been selling that 6 mo. ago. I could have bought it ez. Oh well. My rearend couldn't handle more than the setup I'm doing now but the jawdrop factor when you open the hood with a RB is priceless.

In that case, I have a few questions. I have not yet started the motor since rebuild. If I were to get the ECU modified would I need to do that after I've broken in the motor (say with stock injectors)? I'm guessing it would have to have a specific set tune for 15psi opposed to 6 psi. I thought that making different maps for low and high boost would be the advantage of using an aftermarket ems. I've been now contemplating just letting the car sit until I can afford a haltech or sds. Or buying stock injectors and running the car stock until I can afford the ems and switch back to my 500cc injectors. BTW where would I have the ECU modified? Anyone else on here who's used modified ECU vs. sds, haltech, ect. please pipe in with your opinion.

Is it something about the z31 ecu specifically that doesn't respond well to piggybacks? I see the e-manage used on a lot of high boosted cars. Damn. Maybe I'll just have to let my car sit another six months while save up for a haltech or something. I do have the extra wires that you mentioned wired with the coil. Oh well. I knew the car would run like crap with those injectors, I just wanted to see if it would start first and then set a map with the e-manage. I bought this motor rebuilt from a member here so I have never ran it and don't have any of the stock stuff (injectors). I guess I'll keep watching for a group buy on ems's. Anyone got a good car cover they recommend?

OK I have an l28et w/a z31ecu. I checked the firing order and turned the dizzy to no avail. Another problem I'm having is that I can't figure how to wire the fuel pump so that it only runs when the car is on. It runs as soon as I hook up the battery (I posted this in the fuel section and got no advice). Well I have 500cc injectors that I plan to control with a greddy e-manage. I was trying to fire up the car on the z31 ecu w/out the e-manage so that it wasn't a variable if the car didn't start. I realized the car would probably run super rich but I figured it would still fire so I would at least know that I had it wired properly. Is this a wrong assumption? BTW way when I crank the car, it spins but does not fire. What else should I check? Could it be the injectors that won't let it spark? I get about 40 psi of fuel when I crank the car. I'm all out of ideas at this point other then investing in a nicer car cover.

yeah what it says up there. I have it going straight to the battery. L28et in a 240z. Also, I tried firing the car up yesterday on a quarter tank and couldn't get any fuel pressure. Does the tank have to be full to a point to start it? I know there's issues when not having a sump (which is in the future). Well I'm going to get some gas and see if I can answer my own question. I only filled it up 1/4 per advice from someone to try and get my 500cc inj to fire with the z31 computer (I have a piggy back but wanna try and start it stock before installing it.

OOh I think your on to something, I may have grounded it to the wall

I tried starting up the car for the first time yesterday and when I went to spin it one of the ground wires that goes to the intake manifold (I have it on the firewall) completely fried. What happened?

OK I wanna know theoretically would an l28et run (turn over not run good) with 500cc injectors on a z31 computer? I'm gonna be using a piggy back computers to handle the injectors but wanna get the thing running before confusing myself with the piggy back. Do you think the car will actually turn on with this large of injectors? Also I'm running a Walbro GSL390 fuel pump, JSK fuel rail, and Aeromotive FPR.

OOps sorry I didn't have the right folder public. Please click the link again and click on the photo labeled wiring