philiow313

I would definetly be looking at it first. Anything that I should look for other than rust?

Since I totalled my Z, I'm looking for a new car. My buddies brother has a 72 510 2dr for sale, with a recently rebuilt motor, not sure which one. It's ready for paint and has little to no rust, and has black painted stock rims with a chrome/polished lip, and it's really low. I haven't seen it yet, but my friend tells me it's "dumped." The interior is all good, and a new windshield seal went in it today. He wants $2800 for it. Is this a good deal? Should I try to talk him down a bit?

Haha. We just had a 2.7 in here for that exact problem. Owner changed the belt on his own, then a few miles down the road it died and smoke poured out from the cover. His tensioner froze up and melted the belt down.

Also, anyone in need of struts/shocks, I did just replace all four. Unfortunately i believe the front two are destroyed. The rears have no more than 500 miles on them.

here are some pics sitting in my backyard, its resting place for the next few months. its stock other than a catless 2.5"catback exhaust, bosch platinum plugs, taylor plug wires, axxis brake pads, goodridge front SS lines (i have rear lines but they didnt fit on my years setup), energy suspension front sway bar end links*red*, and energy suspension tension rod bushings*black* i did put in 2 pioneer 3-way 6x9's behind the driver and passenger seats just about a month ago. it does have two aftermarket headlights, which do still work, but im not sure what brand. they are very bright though. the interior is tan, with leather seats, which have some slight cracking but no tears. the dash is brown, and PERFECT. Larry, COZY Z COLE, can attest to that. pictures can be taken for anyone interested. the door panels are a bit dirty on the top sides, but also nearly flawless.

I totalled my Z on Sunday. Driving on some winding backroads with my Subaru club. Roads were a tad damp from rain earlier. Came to a turn no more than 4 miles from the end of our route. It was a downhill, sweeping righthander. Turned the wheel, and the car didn't turn ANY. Went straight off the road at about 50mph, went over a ditch and hit the embankment. Brakes locked up on me, and being wet I had no time to pump the brakes as almost instantly I hit. Car is a total loss. I figure I just hydroplaned, seeing as how I'd just replaced all the steering components below the steering box. My tire tread wasn't more than 10% more than illegal levels. I have a 1980 280ZX 5speed that needs to be parted out. Being 18, I couldn't afford insurance to my car, so I only had liability and property damage. If you need parts, please let me know, and how much your willing to pay. I'll have pics of the damage tonight. I'm so glad to have my life and my passenger's life still. He and I are very thankful. The Z is quite the strong car.

you said "factory timing" but are you sure its still at that? worked on a dodge caravan that did ALMOST the same thing, turned out the timing was off.

Wow thats good. Just for my own future reference, where do I buy this boost controller?

Wow a lot more information than I expected. Thanks guys! My friend who has this idea isnt too performance smart, he just knows a few things and wants to go fast I only knew a little, but I knew if i just posted this question I'd get an answer for him, mostly. I knew you'd need more than just forged internals, but I wasn't sure all of the things you'd need to up the boost. BTW, what kinda hp/tq increases did you get from upping the boost to 8,9, or 10 psi with everything else stock, or with an IC?

Thanks Scottie. I understand that, a friend of mine is actually looking into doing this swap into his 240 (assuming he gets it haha). We are just kinda throwing ideas out there for what to do. So what then, with a decent IC, would you be able to run with everything else pretty much stock?

say stock with no IC

how much PSI could a turbo L28 motor take with forged dished pistons and forged con. rods? hit me with some other variables as well, please.

i have a basically stock 280ZX, im looking to see what kind of aftermarket lowering springs could be fit onto the stock suspension? a friend of mine has some Bilstein springs for his 91 VW GTI that he is willing to give me if i do some work on his car for him. he has neuspeed springs now. would those springs fit? ive heard that some mercedes springs fit on. what else works?

id like to do a lot of work to my head when i get my cam installed. will a competent shop know how to port and polish the head on my 1980 280ZX? ive heard that its not easy to do. whats a port and polish job usually cost?

how much can the RB motors handle stock block?

wouldnt putting it in the downpipe or further down the exhaust dump it into the atmosphere anyways?

what kinda truck? id do what labrat suggessted...ive never heard of anyone doing that but it sounds logical. another thing to do is have someone put some rags on the exit of the exhaust and hold them on, so you increase backpressure, making the exhaust come out of the leak at a greater velocity, increaseing the noise and flow, so that you can hear it better and possibly feel it very easily.

bump for a possible answer to my question.

one of the guys on http://www.i-club.com put some computer cooling fans on his stock subaru wrx IC. he didnt notice anything, and IIRC his intake temp only dropped about a half degree. IMO, not worth it.

off topic here, but what training did you get? i work at fairfield chrysler and was at napa dodge, same ownership, transferred to be closer to home, but i went to HEMI teardown and rebuild training. just curious if thats what you did. oh and as far as getting the engine goes, talk to your parts manager, and see if he can hook you up with one for cheap. we have engine that get pistons blown in them that we warranty for a new engine, and the parts manager says we could buy them if we wanted. i mean, most of them here are kia's, but im sure the same would go for the HEMI.

it was an r200. and at this point im pretty sure its the same gear ratio. at about 1700rpms im at about 35mph in 4th gear.... can anyone tell me what gearing that is?

a built ACR viper. i used to work at dodge, and one guy who owved the only ACR they ever sold there had fully built thing thing- rebuilt, high compression, headers, etc. CARBON FIBER BODY this thing looked stock but ran like a beast. ill never forget that drive.

wow that looks like its very strong. good luck with the shifter!

my old diff was VERY noisy. i picked up a used R200 with carrier from z_boi (thanks canton!) for $60. much cheaper than the $350 i was going to spend for a rebuilt one! anyways. swap took less than 2 hours and it works sooooo well. i dont know yet if the gear ratio is the same or not, we couldnt find it printed on the gears. no noise, and very smooth operation. thought it was locked up before we installed it, too. couldnt turn the driveshaft side by hand. we grabbed a pair of large channel locks and it broke loose. must have been a bit of rust preventing it from turning. im running 75w90 gear oil right now, ill change it in a few hundred miles to make sure i get any leftover gunk out of the housing. now for more driving!

anyone? please?