WickedWild

Yea.. Man it's just one of those days

So the guts of the 280 tach are worthless. I have a slew of spare parts that came with the car, one of them is a tach. How can you tell the 240 tach from the 280 tach?

If you want to know how much it's going to cost, you have to tell us how many man hours you are willing to put into it. The more you plan, research, and use the search function the less you will spend. If you do little of the things above you will spend 2x, 10x, even maybe 20x the $$$. The cheapest conversions done on this board are done by bargain hunting gear heads. People that have search ebay, auto classified, and walked endless miles of salvage yards to find that one perfect part. Some of them have even had the privilege of just stumbling over that perfect donor car are their way home from work, or found a already converted car for $2,200 in Peddlers Post. My personal advise is save all your reseats and NEVER total them up, and never let the woman find that folder.

If my JTR book was not in some obscure box in storage I would not have to ask this question, but… What is the resistor value for running from a Chevy distributor to the Datsun tachometer? Thanks

That's what I did (only with a countersunk holes), that and they look a little off of the bolt also. $30 and now the block is bolted in.

It's a clean looking peice. I'm thinking of running a cone style filter off of a 4" intake tube instead of running an internal filter. http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/guest/guest_book_photo.jsp;jsessionid=aaahwfuXo1ebzO?machineid=wmtp002&shareName=photo&invite=KEFJ4tJthYhKakV7z0MU&shareName=Photo

I just picked this up on Ebay, I'll let you know how it looks.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2475547168&ed=1083193146

That would be a blast to drive.

What about flush mounting/countersinking a different style bolt into the flywheel? Like a round headed hex bolt. Do you think it would lessen the integrity of the flywheel? I like my calves.

I ordered a Hawks Racing Flywheel off of ebay, and this was the description. “This flywheel fits V6 and V8 Small Block Chevrolets using a 153 tooth Manual flywheel, it's drilled to accept a 10.5" clutch. This is a Zero Balance unit...will not work on SB 400, or late BB. This unit is zero (NEUTRAL) balance!†I got this to replace a severely cracked flywheel from my ’85 305 sbc. The fitment problem is that the light weight flywheel is thinner that my oem flywheel. The springs of the clutch area hitting the bolts that hold the flywheel in place, the clutch plate won’t even reach the surface of the flywheel. Did I just screw up and order for the wrong application? Did I get a bunk flywheel? Or maybe a mismatch of aftermarket parts?

Yea your right hydraulic.. Thanks for the info.

I'm almost done with the 305, I'm down to tightening up the lifters. I'm lost as to what the gap should be for the lifters. It's not roller or hydraulic, just stock. Anyone know what the gap should be?

I recently removed the bumpers on my ’78 280Z and had a lot of bare metal in the rear that needed attended too. My paint is by no means in good shape (original paint on 90% of the car). So I wasn’t looking for a perfect match, and I did not have the funds to paint the whole car and I’d like to get my flairs before doing so also. So I’d thought I’d get close with the Chevy orange/red engine paint (from napa), perfect match. I did a test spot on the back, took off to the store for some micro light body filler and could not find my test spot. Thought I would share my newfound knowledge. I do not remember the brand, but I’ll add that latter.

That is simply gorgeous!!! When I look at your Z I think to myself "THAT'S how I want mine to look". Do you have a write up for how you did your hood?

Whats the email addy (*edit* I'm blind, found it ) how much are you trying to raise(*edit* found that too)? Please ignore this post I'm dumb

Well I took the block, heads, crank, and cam into the shop yesterday. They owner of the shop was very helpful and took 3 hours of his time to talk to me about my options. This is what I know now. Dmyntti I know now why you suggested a 350 block instead of stroking, turns out the machining cost alone are more than the price a 350 block. I also found out that I do not have the stock 305HO heads, what I have is a set of 73 305 truck heads with tiny valves. It was not a stock cam, and the cam was too aggressive for the truck heads (explaining the broken lifter and the rub marks on my valve covers from the rocker arms digging in). What I think I'm down to now is having him working over the heads for larger valves, flat top pistons for a 10:1 compression ratio, a new cam, and lifters. All in all about $800 in the rebuild. I'm not too sure what cam, I'll probably have to trust him on the cam. I've read through a lot of Grumpyvette's posts about cams, but most of those have to do with 350 blocks, and I still don't trust myself enough to make the right decision on the cam (but I'm open for suggestions). Dose this all sound like a decent setup. It's a far cry for what I was hoping to do, but it will have to get me by for a bit.

I cut my rear tubes to match the front. Off the top of my head I want to say to 13" (but I dunno 4shure). I did this when I converted to coilovers.

What will the ebay listing of my car look like when I die? That is assuming of course that it's not my car that kills me. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6187&item=2466892924

What I'm planning on doing is cutting out the "Z" (like the one on the piller) in place of the side markers, and back lighting them.

I'm debating on caring these at my quick lube, and for personal use also. I'm going to try the sample one they sent me in my Corolla next week. http://www.magna-guard.com/MagnaGuard.html

Well you just drove the price up for those emblems by 300%! That is sweet man.

Then I'm going to far with the while I'm at it... mabye.... No, next thing I'll know doing that I'll end up spending $2g more than doing a rebuild.