WickedWild

Thanks man

I was wondering if anyone here on the board knew if the 280z 14" rims fit the Datsun 1600?

more here http://www.jeeps4ever.com/wickedwild/dotty.htm And my ebay auctions http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=drfrankenstine&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50 Now sleep

Just make shure that the bolts holding the spacers to the hubs are thred locked and tight.

I've read the instructions, they just did not inform me of such wonderful information that you have. Thanks for the info. Now I know how it works, all I have to do is make it work.

The tach I am using has four wires. So I can run the tach off of two wires the + and the signal wire that runs to the hei distributor acts as a ground? So the ground wire that runs out of the tach is solely for the illumination? If that is true I should be able to reverse my light wire and ground wire so that the tach dims properly. Or I misunderstood what you were saying and went off on a pointless tangent. *edit* I have tried the tach connecting to the battery but not minus the ground wire and light wire, I’ll try that.

The pick-up did not do the trick, still no signal. I'm starting to doubt my ground inside the distributor, I’ve gotten quite the jolt adjusting my timing twice. No other cables are getting hot, and all other grounds seem good.

The easy way of getting the newer style 17's for the Z is to get the honda adaptors and then the sky is the limit for rim styles.

The second tach that I hooked up to the car was connected directly to the batterie (light wire also). I'm replaceing the coil pickup later today, and I chected the ground in the distibutor (good). Hope that will fix the lack of signal.

Thanks for all the info, but it might not be a go tonight... http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=34993

Tonight I was hoping to make my first trip to the local drag strip and see how the Z would do. And to do this I thought it might be helpful if I had a working tach. First the stock tach in the 280 would get no signal from the tach w/resistor in place. So I went aftermarket (1) Wired everything up, bump the ignition, and a shower of sparks fly from the starter. Disconnect the battery, reground, try again, sparks again. Disconnect the battery, reground, new power supply, try again. NO sparks but a poof of smoke and no signal on the tach. BTW when I hooked the tach up to the dimmer it dimmed backwards of the dash lights. So I figure bad tach. Aftermarket tach (2) direct power from battery, direct ground from battery and direct tie to distributor. I start the car, poof of smoke from battery or starter and no signal on tach. The battery is warm and the ground is almost welded to the battery. I know I have a short/ground somewhere, but where? Is there a relay between the starter and distributor that I need to check? Do you think it’s in the distributor it’s self? It’s a “stock†Chevy distributor that’s less than a year old. I know my car is in desperate need of a complete rewiring, but I would prefer to spark through the summer and rewire this winter.

Nice choice, the WRX is on the top of my wish list.

Thanks for the tip on the water box. I found this http://www.nhra.com/tech_specs/ETQuickRef.html I was was really hoping to use a motercycle helmet

Well this Friday I’m driving the hour and half the “local†drag strip for test and tune. This will be my first time on a sanctioned track, and using lights with more than one yellow and rules. I’m looking for some tips and what to bring. I would hate to drive all the way there and not be able to run because I left something at home. I probably wont run under 12, so do all I need is working seatbelts and a helmet? I spent an hour + on http://www.nhra.com and found little/no answers to my questions. Also for test and tune are they going to care about street legality for cars driven in to the track (aka side mirrors, windshield wipers, ect.). Sorry to ask so many questions. Any suggestions? Thanks Josh

What about adding a turbo to the supercharged GM 3.8 It is an insainly tough engine and are about a dime a dozen.

There is more in Indiana than corn... I can fill up with 94 at the local pump. Not worries about inspection, cats, or smog. And even towns of 500 ppl have a machine shop, even if they don't have a gas station.

I had something similar happen to me Saturday night. I pulled along side a new Mustang Cobra that had a serious growl to it. I piped him, he piped me, and the light turned green. Now I’ve got about 100 miles on the new engine and I’m still running 0* timing, so I was curious on how the engine was breaking in. We both roasted all the way through 1st and by 3rd gear I was walking away from him , so I shut it down at the top of 3rd. Well he wants to be a man and keep going. Then I see the cherries in the rearview so I nail the breaks and hit the outside lane to pull over in a parking lot. My passenger being the smart @ that his is chuckles “What are you getting pulled over?â€. “Yep†I pulled off in the parking lot and the cop goes flying by after the Cobra. Spent about 15-20 seconds before I realized that I should go home and park it in the Garage for the night. Thanks Pony!

I run a quick lube in Indiana and we will be hosting a car show (our second) on July 5th. I can guarantee one other “Z†besides my own, and would like to have more than that there. There are not too many events in this area for “Z†gatherings and would love for this to be an excuse to get a couple HybridZ together. We offer some of the coolest trophies for top placings, they are actually models of classic cars. If anyone is interested feel free to email or pm me. I can even offer a place to crash the night before for those who don’t like to drive in the early morning. Here’s the scoop… July 5th IN ROCHESTER INDIANA ROUTE 25 AND STATE ROUTE 31 BEHIND BURGER KING REGISTRATION $10.00 8 AM TO 10 AM AWARDS AT 2:00 PM DOOR PRIZES FREE FOOD 50/50 DRAWINGS DASH PLAQUES LOUDEST PIPES DB DRAGS CLASSES: RODS AND CUSTOMS SUPER STREET CARS MOTORCYCLES OFF ROAD/JEEPS IMPORTS VENDORS WELCOME - NO CHARGE FOR SPACE If this is in the wrong forum, I apologize. Feel free to move it.

Sorry to hear the bad, I hope your builder stands behind his work. Good luck.

Could be a real simple awnser, or a stupid sugestion. Have you tried loosening your rocker arms?

I'm not shure that the clutch is fully engaging. It's right at the top of the pedle and it makes me feel like I'm shifting a Honda

Boom shakalaka shakalaka shaka Boom http://pictures.sprintpcs.com/guest/guest_book_photo.jsp;jsessionid=aaabX30CkI9SGi?machineid=pcs002&shareName=photo&invite=JELJ2e7M7U5HGLWk8LO0&shareName=Photo

First a little update. The car is off of the jack stands and has about 50 miles on it. Everything seems good except one thing, the clutch is insanely light and dose not seem to completely engage and is relatively easily overpowered by the engine. I am running a ’85 305 sbc (port/polish 10:1 flattops, angle/valves, torque cam), lightweight flywheel, stock clutch, and a t-5 Tranny, with a new hydraulic (um... brain fart the ram disengages the clutch). I’ve bled it and bled it and still have not been able to build any type of pedal pressure. Did I make a huge mistake by running a stock clutch with this set up? I honestly thought that the weight differences between the camaro and the 280z would make up for the hp increase. Some one toss me a bone before my impatientness toasts this clutch please.

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