TimZ

This is pretty cool... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6qscoyQcb0

How many would you like to see? Linked from Kinsler's website (don't know about pricing, though)...

If you get a substantial amount of oil in the exhaust, it can take a while to get it all out.

That _should_ be okay, provided you aren't running really high oil pressure (say, higher than ~60psi) at the same time. Clocking of the center section could definitely be your root cause, so I'd think your next step would be to just watch it for a while and see if the problem stays gone now that you've re-clocked it. Is your WB still wonky, or does it appear to be okay now?

He prefaced his statement with "maybe", which is well within the rules of the post you quoted. Lose the attitude. Back on topic, what size is your supply line, how much oil pressure are you running, and is there a restrictor inline with the turbo's oil supply? EDIT: oops - and I guess I should have read the second page - DOH. The line size and pressure questions are still relevant, though.

Umm okay - whatever.

I'm doing an E85 conversion for my car now - from many accounts the corrosiveness of E85 is overblown. Running E85 through 30 year old hoses probably isn't the best idea, but most modern hoses are made from synthetic materials now. I've found pretty good information here: http://e85forum.com/

Found a couple of pics of the backside:

I had to go digging to find a few pics. My intercooler is a pair of Cartech 3" cores, with 2.5" at the inlet and 3" at the outlet. Similar config to yours, but not as pretty... The "fencing" around the cores was an attempt to increase the airflow through the core - the one that is on the front if the IC is intended to funnel more air through the core, the one at the back is there to give me something to fasten to so that I could seal it to the rest of the cooling package and keep any air that goes around the IC from interfering with the flow through the IC (can't find a pic right now - I'll try to come up with one shortly)

Hi Jeff... Yes that makes sense to me now - thanks for the clarification. For me, it's much clearer if at least one variable stays the same for the before and after. For instance, either keep the flow the same and measure the new pressure drop, or keep the pressure drop the same and measure the new flow. When both change, it's harder to tell what happened. So it looks like theres no real downside here, huh? I'm going out to the garage to get my dremel... :biggrin: ...did I mention that's some really helpful work? Thanks again for sharing.

As always, this is some very nice work, Jeff! This should really prove useful to many of us, and the mods you outline are pretty easily attainable by most of us. I do have a couple of questions, though. I'm a little confused as to how both the pressure drop and the flow changed between the two examples above. I would have expected to have seen one of the two held constant from run to run. Maybe I'm missing something - like maybe the two pressure references that you show are somewhere other than the inlet and outlet? Assuming that I'm just missing something, I think if you dial back the flow to match between the two runs, you'll find that the pressure drop is actually less for the tanks with the dividers, since the flow increased by a larger amount than the pressure drop did.

I knew a guy once who took some bad advice and nothing happened as far as I know... So what's the problem?

I was thinking the same thing. Another thing, if the PO reassembled the tensioner without putting the spring back in, it might not be as obvious as everybody is making it sound. The engine would most likely run like that without making much additional clatter, especially if you are just checking with the engine idling. BUT you could have some very erratic chain tensioning going on.

...or a link from this site in 2003: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=83566&highlight=spoolie&page=3

Yep

Ya, ya I know I made a mistake on the pedigree of the valve cover.

...the mic rula

Actually, I've only hinted at it so far, but I'm going to give E85 a shot in the spring. I've been doing some work with the fuel system to ensure compatibility, but so far the conversion hasn't been too terrible. 105 octane and lower EGTs for about the same price as 91 (after correcting for the added fuel consumption) is pretty attractive. Actually, the TEC2 is still a pretty capable unit, provided you don't need alot of bells and whistles. The main problem is with the software that they provide. Looks very impressive!

It's a TEC3r. The dish does tend to concentrate the mixture more in the middle, but to maintain a 7.5:1 CR with the increased stroke the TDC volume has to go somewhere.

Looks like its up and running again.

Okay - sorry if I got too defensive. When this thread first came out I got outright accused of making the results up by some "people" on zcar.com. Didn't set well with me.

Ummm, because the dish is shaped the same as the combustion chamber? And I'm able to run 26psi without detonation? On 94 octane pump gas? And it makes good power? I guess I'm not seeing where you are heading with this.

The piston dish is even and symmetrical, save for the little valve relief cuts. What is it you are wondering about?

I've put in a help request with YouTube - that vid was working as recently as a couple of weeks ago. Don't know why it stopped working. I had a local guy do the port and chamber work - there are some pics in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=129940

You have an aluminum exhaust?