TimZ

It seems to me that you are so far into it now that pulling the front cover and not worrying about the chain is an extra 15-20 minutes worth of work. Take the chain off and turn the crank at will. Once you get the head back you are gong to want to degree the cam in properly anyway right?

Maybe I missed it in the previous posts, but from the 1st pic in the first post, are you saying that the original cam with the smaller base circle and 0.200" lash pads worked properly in this same head with no other changes? If this is the case, then you can figure out what your new lash pad thickness needs to be by subtracting half of the difference in base circles between the two cams from 0.200" . Seeing as how the difference in base circles appears to be readily visible in the 1st pic, I would think that you would need to go considerably thinner than 0.180". Stock lash pads were 0.120", as I recall.

The controller in the pic is an HKS EVC boost controller. The little cube thing with hoses underneath it is the valve control servo for the HKS EVC. It has nothing to do with any of those gauges. Also, the Defi controller will only work with Defi gauges. Check Greddy's website, but I don't recall any of their gauges requiring a controller.

Thanks Yasin! On the first run it just touched the rev limiter when I let off and de-clutched and made a small pop, which the dyno operator mistook for the hose popping off. I pulled all the way to 7800 rpm on most of the runs.

I'm with Jon - I looked into this long ago when Nissan Competition still had people you could talk to. They specifically told me that these were intended for racing purposes and needed to be lubricated regularly - as in every few thousand miles. So I guess if you don't mind pulling the trans and clutch every few months, then go for it. There really isn't much to be gained with the roller bearing, and much more to lose, especially on a street car.

I believe he's saying to leave the alternator "on" and make sure that the battery has a full charge before you start. It doesn't take much current (i.e., negligible load) to keep a fully charged battery at 13.8 volts, and it's much easier to be consistent with a constant supply voltage

http://www.coolflow.com/intracooler/intercooler.htm

First thing I'd recommend is to install one at a time and see which one is causing your problem. Much easier to diagnose this way.

I finally got the video uploaded - the camcorder's battery died about halfway through, but you can still get the gist...

I hate to say it, but that's usually an indicator of excessive blow-by, and that often doesn't end well... Maybe not, though. There is a sort of "pocket" in the block where the crank vent is pressed into, and in that pocket is supposed to reside a flame arrestor - it looks like a piece of screen, folded accordion-style. Then, there is a small sheet metal piece that bolts in over the flame arrestor to hold it in place. If you don't have this stuff installed, then you can get quite a bit of oil splash into the crank vent. Do you see oil trying to squish out of other points, like the oil filler cap, or is it just at the crank vent? Another thing to look at might be any plumbing that would allow boost pressure form the intake manifold to get into the crankcase. Also, when you say the previous head gasket was installed incorrectly, how so? Could that have contributed?

The research that I did seemed to indicate that viton would be fine - in fact I switched to viton from the originals just to be sure. Time will tell, I guess. I'd have to look around a bit to find boost response for the lower gears - the 4th gear pulls above are about as early as I can expect boost to hit, just from the inertia of the wheel vs. rpm rate of change in 1st and 2nd to some extent. 3rd gear looks pretty much like what you see above. 1st gear gets to roughly 20psi, 2nd gets to ~24, and then full boost in the rest of the gears I just switched over to Mickey Thompson E/T streets (275/40-17) this summer and was amazed at how big a difference they made over the Kumho V700s I was using before. When the ambient temps are above 75 or 80, it gets almost full traction in 1st gear, and it's all there in 2nd. Today it's more like 50 degF, so I was back to breaking the tires loose in 2nd. I think that there is more to be had from the suspension setup - I think that I now have too much camber for the MTs in the rear, and probably too much toe-in as well. I've been thinking that my winter project this year will be to figure out how to adjust that without spending a fortune...

So far so good on the clutch, although I was surprised at how much torque its holding now - as I recall it was only rated at 500lb-ft The headgasket is still the Nissan Comp (or whatever they are called now) gasket with seperate fire rings.

I'm in Dearborn, so it's only maybe 10 minutes off I94. Probably 30 minutes from the US23/I94 interchange. You would most certainly be welcome to stop by.

93 is available pretty much everywhere, and pretty much all of the sunocos here carry the 94 variant. ...AND I now have 4 stations with E85 within about 5 miles

Thanks, Tony. I'm about 45 minutes from Milan. I've got the right tires now, so one of these days I'll make it over there. Sunoco 84? I'll get right on that... 1 fast Z - 607hp was my best on Sunoco 94

The changes that I made to my fuel system consisted of the following: Anodize the aluminum bits remove any brass fittings and replace with either anodized aluminum or stainless steel Used E85 compatible hoses Viton o-rings for the injectors Two fuel pumps, each with a Kenne Bell Boost-a -Pump for good measure 150lb injectors Pulled the fuel tank and modified it with a bottom sump and two -8 outlets, one for each fuel pump Also hot tanked the tank and had it internally coated with an Ethanol resistant coating (red-kote) I already had the two pumps and injectors from the previous setup - there was enough headroom left for the addition of E85.

Thanks everyone. It's the same evil SFP header, slightly modified to allow the GT42 to fit in the engine bay, and with stainless expansion joints added to fight the tendency for warping. I also added bracing to take some of the stress off of the flange area.

This particular run peaked at ~29psi, trailing off to 27 at redline At roughly the same boost level as before, power peaked at ~628hp, with 528 lb-ft

Well, I finally got a chance to get my car back to the dyno, just to confirm my suspicions on the E85 conversion I did over the winter. Very pleased with the results. The major changes since this thread consisted mainly of: actually dialing in the cam correctly (it appears to have been retarded quite a bit before) Switching to E85 - actually more like E70 now (winter mix) I made a few other changes, mostly with high rpm longevity in mind: Kameari chain tensioner Ferrea super alloy valves titanium retainers lightened/balanced/polished the rockers fresh set of rings/bearings The blue lines were from today on E85, the red from last year on Sunoco 94 Just to put things into perspective, here it is vs. a stock Z06 on the same dyno...

If it were modified to only give 1 pulse per 720 degrees of rotation instead of 6, then yes. I'm assuming we are still talking about using it as a CAS.

No - you still use the crank trigger for the actual timing events - since the dizzy already turns at half speed, it's a perfect candidate for a cam position sensor. Timing constraints for this signal are generally very loose - like you need a trigger anywhere from 5 to 60 degrees before TDC on #1 on the compression stroke.

I was thing the same. However, this would be a great place for a cam position sensor to allow full sequential operation for those with the capability. I'm currently running a modified 280 dizzy to do just that and it works great. If you could do the same thing in a smaller package that might be interesting.

...So that's just 4350psi, just two orders of magnitude more than currently used instead of three.

I just double checked and that's not a typo. For those of you keeping score at home that's ~23000 psi. I don't think you'll be able to get that with a Walbro 255. Also remember that you are now forced to get the entire injection completed essentially on the intake stroke instead of having the entire 720deg of rotation that we are used to. Also controlling the injector at a 65:1afr will require the use of extremely short pulsewidths - don't think a Motec will be up to the task ether. I'd love to try this too and it's not impossible but it would require some new aftermarket products to be developed - sounds like maybe a job for the MegaSquirt guys...

Very nice - gotta love the E85!