TimZ

Maybe I'm sutpid, but I could find any "specs" on amsoil's website to confirm or deny. I'm looking at Valvoline's VR1 synthetic: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50

What specs would those be? I couldn't find anything about zinc content in that link. I did find this, which was interesting, but the info is a little dated... http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

I just had my SFP mainfold modified by Speedshop Thagard. Stainless steel slipjoints were welded in in the three main stress points for expansion/contraction. This should eliminate the warping/cracking problems that were associated with this manifold. Price was reasonable, too... Also, here's how I handled the bracing for the GT42R that is going to be mounted to it:

The thermostat housing is where the temperature is usually read from. This should be the point where the water is the hottest, since it's been through the entire engine at this point. Also, this point will give you apples to apples comparisons to others' engines.

Could you please define what you mean by "inflates"? Does it just get really hard, or does it blow up like a balloon? If it blows up like a balloon, then the hose is bad. If it just gets really firm, that's probably normal - the cap is supposed to regulate the pressure to ~14psi. If the pressure is going much higher than that, then there is a problem with the cap, regardless of whether it is new or not. It would take a LOT of pressure to make a known good hose blow up like a balloon, BTW - I would think you would see lots of other things failing if this were the case.

I guess you could weld them on, but as the stock crank is forged, I would think that you'd be risking compromising the overall strength of the crank.

yep - or therabouts... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107420

The gauges are Defi Blackface gauges - in imperial units. The vents are from a small aircraft of some sort - they are WEMAC "eyebal" vents. I got them off ebay - luckily the seller just posted them in the aircraft section, so there were fewer people looking. They are very nice machined aluminum pieces. I made an adapter to route the air from the stock vent outlet to the new vents.

Damn it - you made me spit out my beer!

New Gauges! Thought I'd go ahead and get them working while waiting on turbo parts to get ceramic coated. I forgot to turn on the marker lights - the lighting for the heater panel is now done with white LEDs (removed the green filter), and it looks great. Just have to do the same for the speedo and tach now...

So does Cartech - at least they have cores in that config - you might have to make the endtanks. Ditto. Bad brand or not, that first intercooler will probably outflow the second one by a factor of four or five. I know it was just an example for the end tank style, but still... To me its only ricey if it's performance doesn't live up to its looks. If its effective, then I don't really care if sombody thinks it looks ricey (okay, the big stupid wings might be an exception to this rule - I wouldn't use one even if it was effective ).

First question - did you block the chain when you pulled the head? If so, what did you use to block it?

Yes, we did go off topic, but if you've read the first four responses, the question has pretty much been answered already. Was there something else you needed to know?

I ran those same NGK multi electrode plugs (with a "7" heat range as I recall) for a while and had more misfire problems than I did with the standard NGK coppers. I suspect that this may have been mostly due to the TEC2 being finicky about spark plug-induced EMI, but I've always been concerned about the relatively large gap with this style plug (even more so with the bRISK - what is the gap on those - 3mm?), and the inability to change it by much. I've generally had better luck with smaller gaps when running a dense high boost mixture. I've pretty much given up on spark plug experiments and just stick with plain old NGK coppers now.

No - too small. at least for the gForce. I used a McLeod Hydraulic bearing. On Alex's question, most custom clutch places can make you a clutch disc with the right spline patten. Clutch Specialties changed mine out for ~$35.

What size are the oil feed and return lines? You don't want the feed to be too big, and you don't want the return too little.

He is how we modded the tailshaft housing to fit the gForce T5 output shaft: The Datsun tailhousing and bellhousing both bolt right up to the Ford WC gearcase, btw.

Sorry to rain on your parade because I think it's a cool idea, but this isn't right. Because of the physics of the air moving over the surface (fluid dynamics), the smaller the model, the faster the wind tunnel airspeed needs to be to simulate the same effect. So, for a 1/18 scale model to simulate 100mph, you would need to have a wind tunnel speed of 1800 mph:shock: , which of course is almost mach 2.5, so that probably wouldn't work so well. http://www.aerodyn.org/WindTunnel/wind_tunnel.html#scale_effects