TimZ

The V70R and S60R had a larger single turbo 2.5l 5 cylinder engine and make 300hp from the factory. And they had AWD and were available with a 6 speed manual right here in the states. Awesome cars.

What a jackass -he would probably have his ass handed to him by most of the people on this site.

You don't have to bore the block to add a stroker crank, FWIW. The crank by itself will still get you close to 3.0 litres (2.95, as I recall). For the most part I agree with the others as far as spending your money elsewhere. However, it does heavily depend on what other things you are planning to do anyway. If, for instance, you were going to get forged pistons and L24 rods anyway, then it's a whole different story. Now you are just talking about the cost of the crank and a bit of extra work clearancing the block for the longer stroke. Not nearly as big a deal. EDIT - Oops I saw that Jon already added in pretty much the same info - sorry for the redundancy.

Very impressive - I heard that James posted that video on a Viper forum and got perma-banned...

Thanks! The hasteloy valve is not currently being used - my cam really hated the added backpressure the last time I tried to use it, so this implementation is wide open. I may reconsider if I find that the GT42 doesn't spool adequately... I've got all winter now, right?

...and now you can hardly tell it's there at all... Got it put back together just in time for winter. Hopefully I'll get some time to get it out and start tuning...

Fuel injector ratings are generally given for flow at 3 bar (43.5psi) across the injector. Your base fuel pressure is not the pressure you get at idle, it's the pressure you see with the hose disconnected. As I recall, the base pressure for the Z is 2.5 bar (36.25psi). Since the injector flow is proportional to the square root of the pressure, your 311cc rated injectors should flow sqrt(2.5/3) *311cc, or about 284cc.

Thank you - I was going to say the same. Nobody has ever accused my car of being a dog - on or off boost. I think if you do the math, the hp difference in the off-boost rpm range is maybe 3 or 4 hp for a cr change of 7.5 to 8.5. I run an open chamber N42 (albeit modified) head, too...

Every now and then, even a blind squirrel finds a nut...

...and, if you want to be nitpicky, 1 bar = 14.5 psi 1 atmosphere = 14.7 psi

The restrictor is there to decrease the oil pressure to the turbo, so that you don't blow oil out past the seals. Restricting the return line would not be a good idea. You should be fine without one. Just run a -3 (preferably teflon) feed line - that should be restriction enough.

The TEC is made by Electromotive, so there is no difference between a "TEC-style" trigger wheel and an "Electromotive-style" trigger wheel. As you can see from the pic above, Joel's and my BHJ dampers have the trigger wheel mounted on the front, instead of being sandwiched in behind the damper, so there was no way for us to have such a problem (I was really confused until I saw the pic of 240Z's damper). By far the best solution would be to countersink the holes and use flathead allen machine screws (loctite them in), as z-ya suggested. Once you get the screws and the countersink bit, it's about 10 minutes worth of work on a drill press. You could probably even get away with using the coutersink bit with a hand drill if you have a steady hand (drill press would be far better, though).

Me too. ...actually I don't really feel any desire or need to learn the hard way, it just seems like I usually do anyway.

Fair enough...

I don't have any experience with the Power Brute, with ~500whp and an auto, I would guess that the r200 would probably be okay (probably borderline). All bets are off if you add a 200hp shot of nitrous to the mix, though.

My last dyno pull was 508 whp, 470lb-ft: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105832 I'll be looking for more shortly I'm using a manual trans (gForce T5) The Kaaz lsd in the r230 is supposed to be good to ~1000 whp

Hmmm... looks like they just started offering it. They weren't available a year and a half ago when I did my conversion. The Kaaz unit seems to be working pretty well, though.

I agree with what you are saying. I was basing my statements on Mike's stated goal of 700hp, and that he didn't want a welded diff. Surprisingly, I don't think Quaife makes a unit for the r230. That was why I ended up with the KAAZ lsd. I just recently heard that Kaaz might not be making lsds for the r230 any more either, but that has not been confirmed.

If Rick doesn't have one, I'm pretty sure I do...

So far it's working really well. I did have some issues early on with the clutches being a bit too aggressive, to the point where I had some pretty severe understeer, even on decel. I followed the break-in procedure exactly, and used the recommended Kaaz gear oil, and the breakaway torque was still way too high. As a last resort before rebuilding the thing with a less agressive clutch setup, I tried some Ford LSD friction modifier, and lo and behold, the thing started working prefectly. Still chirps a bit on low speed parking lot turns, just to let me know it's there, but the understeer problem is a thing of the past now.

Agreed - it was mentioned in a post or two from others. Please don't get me wrong - what you've done with that car is very impressive. Just trying to keep things in perspective.

That's something I've been wanting to comment on - the jnj car is the one that keeps getting cited as the example of why you don't need more than an r200, but it's using a welded diff (still really impressive, no issues there). I'm not convinced that the r200 would be completely bulletproof behind 700hp on the street without the welded spool. I managed to break my Torsen-equipped r200 with about 450whp. It does appear that the Torsen itself gave out, and I've heard that the Quaife is stronger, but is it 200hp stronger? I dunno. Sure it's guaranteed, but that won't make you feel much better the second or third time you have to be towed home . Even though you aren't likely to be able to hook up well enough to pull a wheelie on the street, things like potholes, expansion cracks/bumps and wreak havok with your shock loads.

Here was how I solved that problem on one of my old setups... Basically, I used a straight -6 fitting on the end of the rail and a 180 deg -6 hose end, running back to the FPR which was mounted on the firewall. I used firesleeving to keep the braided hose from destroying everything around it. The only advantage that I know of (aside from not having to continually explain why it doesn't matter ) for the flow-through setup is that it will self-purge any trapped air out of the rail without having to do anything special. That said, I think the non flow-through setup will probably do the same within a minute or so after the first startup.

Okay - that makes sense. Thanks, Tony. I guess where I was headed with the question was to figure out whether the pressure-referenced regulator that we were talking about earlier (Mallory #4309) would work for the original poster, provided that he referenced it to manifold pressure and set it up to give 4psi at idle. From this last post, it sounds like it would. And yes, EFI is still better.

A bypass regulator never adds restriction - it simply modulates how much flow gets bled off. You can look at this as forcing the pump to flow more and thus go to the lower pressure point on the graph. As such, the bypass regulator does effect the pressure across the entire system, both before and after it. This is a fundamental difference in the way it regulates pressure as opposed to the inline style. When you hammer on the top of a bypass regulator (or crush it or whatever), all you are doing is changing the preload on the internal spring, and thus changing it's operating point. This doesn't add any restriction to the system (unless you really hammer the crap out of it ). The flow through the injector increases or decreases proportionally to the square root of the pressure increase or decrease across it. So, if you double the pressure across the injector, you increase it's flow by a factor of 1.414. The reason for modulating the fuel pressure with manifold pressure is simply to keep a constant pressure across the injector. This way it will act predictably, regardless of the manifold pressure. If you didn't do this, the injector would flow more than its rating at idle, and less than its rating at full boost, which is pretty much the opposite of what you want. (You often see newbs pulling the reference off the FPR, thinking it's richening the mixture, not realizing that it has the opposite effect on boost) Oh - and just as an FYI, injectors are pretty much always rated for flow with a 3bar (43.5psi) pressure differential across them.