TimZ

I agree that the mounting points need reinforcement, but I'm not familiar with a 'strut cage'. What exactly does this look like?

I take that back - there is one thing you should check here. The combo looks reasonable, but those are much stiffer bars than stock. One common thing that happens with bars this thick is that the mounting points get torn apart from the added stress. This is most prevalent in the front. Usually the spot welds in the frame rails literally tear apart. If this has happened, then the effectiveness of your front bar is greatly diminished, and this would result in oversteer with that stiff of a rear bar. So go take a good long look at the frame rails where the front bar attaches. It wouldn't hurt to check the rear, too.

Close' date=' but no bananna. Bernoulli's Principle. 8) .[/quote'] I stand corrected ....but can I have my banana back anyways? Tim Seeing as how I spelled 'banana' wrong, I guess so... That is a nice pic, btw.

Close, but no bananna. Bernoulli's Principle. 8) Basically, a gas or fluid moving across a surface exerts decreasing pressure on the surface as it's velocity increases. And now, once again it's time for me to play Devil's Advocate. The Bernoulli argument is moot as far as connecting to the intake vs. exhaust, as it would apply in either location (air moves in the intake too), and the static pressure at the intake will almost certainly be lower than that in the exhaust. It doesn't matter if there is a 'vacuum' in the exhaust per se (or intake, for that matter), only that the pressure at the crankcase vent is lower than that inside the crankcase. Gasses and fluids ALWAYS flow from high pressure to lower pressure - they don't have a choice. I'd be very surprised if either of these setups were capable of generating lower than atmospheric pressures in the crankcase at WOT. The goal is just to get the pressure as low as possible. The crankcase definitely does generate high pressures, but I'm pretty sure that blowby gasses are the dominant effect, rather than the pistons moving up and down - as far as i can tell, this would tend to just shuttle the air around inside the crankcase, rather than compressing it appreciably. Also, as far as the resistance from air pressure argument goes, this assumes that the air is somehow pinned in place inside the crankcase and cannot move with the crank. Ganted there is most likely considerable turbulence in the crankcase which would add additional drag, but I doubt that the effect is all that severe. One advantage that I do see would be that this setup would probably still do a reasonable job of evacuating the crankcase, and would keep vaporzed oil out of the intake, which would be a plus. All that said, I do still pay attention to trying to keep the crankcase pressure as low as possible, but I am just a bit skeptical that connecting the vent to the exhaust vs a conventional vent to the intake will make any measurable difference, especially not 20hp. Maybe 20hp vs plugging the crankcase completely and letting it pressurize...

Something like that:

Third gears, apparently . This is really TimZ this time - yes , it was only third gear that was gone, so we were able to limp home with the trans sounding like it was full of marbles. When we pulled it apart this morning, there we NO teeth left on third. I was really bummed that we weren't able to do the dyno pulls, but I had already resigned myself to doing a trans upgrade, so that was just pulled forward a couple of months. I'm looking into a replacement T5 gearset that is supposed to be capable of sustaining 650hp - I have a Datsun T5 core, and will be comfirming whether this is viable very soon.

Again, this is James posting. We pulled the tranny this morning and indeed the teeth were ripped off of 3rd gear. The software he devoped said roughly 450hp@wheels, but the torque was sure to exceed 500ft-lbs. The plan was to dyno the car today, but no dice at this point.

this is actually 240Z Turbo making this post. I am in Detroit for a conference and now that the conference is over I am hanging out with TimZ for a few days. Well, the car is brutal fast and I had the pleasure of driving it. Got to race a Ford Focus at 1/4 throttle I will cut to the chase, V12 BMW wanted to race and Tim was driving. A downshift into 3rd gear and floored the car. BOOOOOM! Bye Bye 3rd gear Well, I guess that we now know the limits of the zx tranny!

I understand your desire to not have any leaks, but if you are worried about finding a pinhole leak, that will have ZERO effect on your performance. I guess maybe a tiny bit if you are using a MAF, but the effect under boost will be negligable.

Being an L6'er myself, I really appreciate the outpouring of support from various people on this thread. However, the very fact that somebody of Mike's stature on this forum is even considering such an action makes me seriously wonder if I want or need to be part of this community. Can you really sit there and say that I have not added anything useful to this forum because I don't have a V8? WTF - I thought you guys were my friends. All I can say is be careful what you wish for. You may surely get it.

ummm... where everybody else puts it, maybe? (in front of the rad support). It's still the same hood - the g-nose just extends past the point where the stock z's buckets stop

So far my BHJ damper is working just fine. It bolted right up with no modifications required to my existing setup, except having to find new belts for the accessories, since the pulleys are slightly different sizes. The 2 pulley damper with the trigger wheel was $410.95 delivered.

E-mail me your mailing address - I have a set here that I'm not going to use. They are the good Viton (brown) ones, too. Also on the battery charging thing - did the new battery help for a while and then go flat, or did it just have no effect?

The simple fact that this "Dauntless" guy immediately started badmouthing someone else when asked a simple question should make anyone suspicious, especially considering he's brand new to this board. Even if it's true it's just bad business practice to air your dirty laundry in public. Do you really want to risk potentially thousands of dallars with someone like that? As far as stirring the pot, the K_car guy wasn't trying to sell any of us anything as far as I could tell, and did point to several relevant links. Get a clue guys.

I'm pretty sure that the push-lock hose needs to be used with the push-lock barbed hose ends for the pressure rating to mean anything. the hose itself will probably still be fine, but I'd use the band-style hose clamps anyway.

As I mentioned, the Mikuni manifold gives more vertical clearance, which allows much easier packaging for a big turbo as well as heatshield packaging and header clearance. Also, the shorter runners left much more room for a large plenum since the throttle bodies ended up farther from the strut towers. If you look at the manifold it does have a noticeable bend in it, but it's cross section is so big that I can't imagine it being much of a problem. Also, it didn't hurt that a friend gave me the manifold for free.

I'm using the TWM throttle bodies with a Mikuni manifold - it is not the manifold that you would get if you bought the TWM "kit".

Another thing that the Mikuni manifold does have going for it is clearance from the exhaust manifold. It puts the throttle bodies at least an inch higher than the cannon manifold. This can make a difference on a turbo setup as far as your ability to use a big turbo/plenum and your ability to fit heat shielding in between the manifolds.

Sorry - I missed this the first time you posted it. I use EGO feedback, but I only turn it on once I'm satisfied that the VE table is set pretty darned close. The EGO Feedback is generally kind of tricky to get working properly without hunting even when the VE table is good - it's pretty much useless when the VE table is not tuned. And this is the inherent problem with E-motive's auto tuning feature - it relys on EGO feedback to set the VE table. IMHO, this is the reason that many people complain of this feature not working well. Your only hope of getting this feature to work well would be to severly limit the rate of change of engine speed and MAP so that the feedback has plenty of time to stabilize in each load cell that you are tuning. I would be more inclined to just datalog and tune without E-motive's autotune. Here is a post where we discussed some techniques that might be helpful: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22142