TimZ

I just checked my bar, which is also a Suspension Techniques 7/8" bar (late '80s vintage), and it does not have a bend there at all - it's just straight. I'm guessing maybe they added the bend to give better access to the driveshaft flange bolts (maybe?). As others have said, since the mass dampers have fallen off of probably 99% of all Zs still on the road, I'll bet that whatever vehicle they used to model the bar did not have one. Also, the orientation of the damper is irrelevant, so long as it's bolted in the same place - is it possible to rotate the mass so that it no longer interferes? You could even cut and reweld it in another shape if you really wanted to keep it. Personally, I'd just ditch it - mine fell off years ago, and I have seriously never been able to tell the difference. Should be an easy enough thing to try, anyway.

I'm using 5.3" rods (134.6mm) rods on mine and was able to have a piston made that didn't require anything particularly funky. It is possible to actually put the pin right through the oil ring groove for additional rod length - they have oil control rings that have a special support rail on the bottom side that allow this, and I am told that this is streetable. What I don't know is if this type of oil control ring is available in a size that would work for us. If you went this route you could conceivably go a fair amount longer on your rods.

The only disadvantage that I can thnik of to venting the wastegate to atmosphere is that as mentioned before, it will be considerably louder. You do also need to pay close attention and make sure that the 1400+ degF gasses exiting the wg are directed away from anything that you don't want destroyed (wiring, firewall, hoses, steering linkage, etc ).

On the valve interference issue, remember that he is specifying a 2mm head gasket - shouldn't this be the same as zero deck height and a standard 1mm head gasket? You do still need to check on the top ring, though.

No - the turbine housing has two seperate scrolls internally, and you need to be able to shut one of them off completely for this to work. The two holes in the jobbie were ported to match the two inlets in the turbine housing exactly. Rotating the spoolie jobbie would result in nothing lining up with the turbine housing's two inlets. Aside from having some sort of 'sideways' turbine housing cast, this is pretty much what I'm stuck with.

Don't hate me because I'm beautiful... Nothing wrong with looking clean as long as you can back it up, right? Truth be told, I did get the idea for the valve cover from a Honda valve cover that was being done at the powercoating shop at the same time I was having mine done.

That's a pretty good guess . The turbine housing is a twin scroll housing' date=' and the cable controls a butterfly valve on one of the scrolls: [img']http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/3liter/pics/timz/spoolyjobby1.jpg[/img] ...James built the thing up for me. I have this setup so that the TEC II's GPO output controls the opening of the throttle, so that (in theory at least) I can have a small AR at low rpm and then open the butterfly and double the AR at high rpm/boost. I don't know just how well this will work yet, so I wasn't going to advertise it. Time will tell... The radiator hoses are a combination of a Samco 1.375" elbow and a Baker Precision 1.5" elbow. The other hoses are an amalgam of mostly Earl's and Aeroquip - personally I prefer Earl's, but Aeroquip is easier to get locally and is still very acceptable.

Oops - somehow I ended up editing my last post, instead of adding a new one - DOH.

That would definitely make more sense.

I seriously doubt that, unless he had the Ford engine in his Z.

I don't know what pisses me off worse - the crap that 'night' guy is pulling, how gullible the buyers are, or the fact that I wasted an hour and a half reading the damned thread. I'm sorry, but at this point I'm with whoever said that those guys deserve to lose their money. Maybe I'm reading too much between the lines here, but they appear to be mostly concerned with not putting the guy out of business before they get their clips or their money back. Implicit in this is the fact that the only way he is going to make enough money to pay them is to rip more people off. One of the posts actually said something to that effect, although I think they were joking. IMHO, there is more than enough evidence to point to the fact that the guy is disreputable and just as culpable as his 'washington shop'. They need to stop hoping that their goods/refund will magically appear (almost certainly won't happen) and should be taking whatever actions necessary to make them cease and decist RIGHT NOW. Hoping he'll rip off enough other people to pay them back makes them just as big an a$$hole as him. What a bunch of wankers.

I'm just going by the numbers that I had for that pump (or at least the same pump as sold by Kinsler). Could be okay, could be pretty marginal or even inadequate, depending on how much boost will be run and the base fuel pressure. At the very least it bears further investigation.

The factory pcv hose was actually larger diameter on the crankcase end. If all of your pcv stuff is in the stock location, just call courtesy Nissan and get a pcv hose. Sorry - what was your setup again? My advice will differ on what to do with the valve cover, depending on what you've got.

I thought he was referring to a diagonal brace welded into the main hoop, which passes left to right, right behind your head.

Are you sure it's a hall effect pickup? The TEC-II uses an inductive style pickup (variable reluctance), and it will act pretty much exactly as you describe if you have the pickup wired backwards. Polarity does matter. The tach going crazy is a very strong sign that your timing signal is getting scattered for whatever reason. How exactly is the pickup wired (+, -, shield)? Do you have any rotating magnetic fields (a/c clutch, alternator, electric fans) nearby?

Excellent point - much of the added safety that people are saying they want/need can be added in less intrusive ways than adding a full cage. The door bars are a perfect example of this.

I believe that my thermostat is set at 190 deg. BTW, don't skimp on the hoses - I would not run less than -10 (5/8" id). And I would run at least the turbo oil pump - all the added plumbing and lines can add a fair amount of restriction inline in the system. You should try to keep the restrictions to a minimum, and the added pump capacity will help overcome what you have added in.

ummmm.... "B"?

I mentioned this in the other post' date=' but that is the problem with using such equipment on the street - the kind of belt/harness that you need to sufficiently limit your movement is totally impractical for the street. For instance, most 5-point harnesses do not retract - once you are strapped in, that's it - you aren't moving. In many cars, this means that you have to remember to pull the door closed [i']before[/i] you cinch down the belts, because otherwise you will not be able to reach the door handle . I can pretty much guarantee that unless you are some kind of masochist, you would not find a racing harness livable on the street for very long.

I think DAW was referring to the difference between a rising rate (like the cartech piece) FPR for turbo vs. n/a. In this case, what he said makes sense - a rising rate FPR for a turbo would do nothing on an n/a car, since you would never get to the non-linear part. I'm still not convinced that the RR FPRs actually do anything on n/a cars, though (i.e., I don't know if they actually calibrate them differently).

We had a discussion along these lines not too long ago: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=22665 No conclusions, but a pretty good discussion.

I don't think I'd use grease, but I would recommend filling the pump with oil - just pull it off the engine, pour some oil in, and reinstall.

As I recall, the valve cover vent should not be vented to atmosphere - this should be causing a vacuum leak. Both the BOV and the valve cover vent need to be plumbed in after the AFM.