TimZ

That particular run was leaner than I would normally like, but the 14:1 was just a transient lean spot as boost was starting to build. When the boost hit, went back down into the 13's and then into the 12's. On subsequent runs, I fattened the mixture up until it was right at 12:1 through the boost range. Cost me a few hp though - the last run was only 462, but I did gain about 0.5 lb-ft... EGTs were in check (~1400degF) and it wasn't detonating, so I didn't feel too bad showing that run. As I mentioned I was just trying to establish a baseline today. Here was the last run of the day:

Thanks, guys... The weather cleared up here this last week, and the forecast was for dry weather today, so I scrambled for some dyno trime, and then to get my car put back together I really wanted to get a baseline with the new setup, so I could tell what additional changes (turbo, cam...) helped and how much. Anyway, the cam that I am using is still the Isky L475 grind - the mildest turbo cam that Isky has. Flow bench tests showed that I could keep gaining flow out to about .530 lift, so I should be able to get pretty good results with a new cam. Haven't decided on a grind just yet.

I had the chrome pieces powercoated in "black chrome". You could just as easily do any other color that suits you. This wasn't particularly cheap - lots of little bits for the powedercoter to spend time on - but the results were good.

Okay, well, half a set of forged pistons... ...maybe if you have an SR20

Yes that's probably right. Actually it has warmed up considerably - it had been more like -18 to -7 degC here since mid January. Actually, I've been in Phoenix, AZ this week on business, and the temps have been more like +25 degC - I'm thinking that I'm just not going back home (maybe just long enough to ship the Z out...)

btw - I think the duallies are too cool. That and the license plate...

I was thinking some sort of AMX or Javelin, but the front fenders don't look quite right. ...So are they doing a new Mad Max movie?

I'm guessing that you don't really care about the answer to this, but I thought I'd mention it anyway. The manufacturers don't even need the bleeders at the plant - those are only for service later. At the plant there is a machine that fastens to the master cylinder reservoir, pulls a near-complete vacuum on the enitre system and pushes the brake fluid in. Since the air was pulled out first, there is no reason to bleed. They gererally fully fill a comlletely dry brake system in 10 or 15 seconds. I gotta get me one of those machines...

Since the P90 is a closed chamber head, an ordinary dished piston will negate any advantages that you might have gained from the closed chamber's "squish" area. If you can achieve the CR that you want with flattops, that would be the preferred route. Note that the flattops would need to have zero (or near zero) deck height - adding volume with negative deck height is the same as a dished piston. If you need more combustion chamber volume than you can get with flattops, the dish in the piston needs to have the same shape as the combustion chamber in the head, so that you will maintain the proper squish.

I'm with SleeperZ and Sean73 on this - I don't think it's going to make any measurable difference. But if you want to be anal, you should remember that the coloring changes how much the pipe will conduct heat, not necessarily how much it will dissipate heat from the pipe. For instance, coating the pipe black makes it conduct heat more easily. So, if the surrounding environment is hotter than the inside of the pipe, then the black coating will make it absorb heat from the outside, wihich is the opposite from what you want. This will almost certainly be the case where the pipes are near the exhaust manifold. Even if the air in the pipe is 300degF, the manifold will be at least 800degF. Out in front of the radiator, the black pipe will probably radiate it's heat away from the pipe, but again, this depends on what is near it. Remember that we are talking about radiant heat, which is not necessarily the air temp. So, if the pipe is close to the radiator, there is still a very good chance that the I/C pipe could actually be cooler than the temp of the radiator, in which case you would still be absorbing heat into the I/C pipe. So, I would think that if you are really worried about this, it would be better to coat everything in a light color, since the engine bay has so many items in it that are likely to be hotter than the I/C pipe. For what it's worth, I have both the I/C pipes and the exhaust manifold coated a light color in my car, just to keep radiant heat transfer to a minimum, because I'm anal, too. Again, though - I seriously doubt it will make a measurable difference no matter what color you make it, so you might as well pick a color that you like. One more thing - looking at the routing that you used, there is most likely no need to use ceramic coatings on the I/C pipes - regular powder coating is usually good to something like 450degF, and I doubt that you'll get the pipes hotter than that - especially if you use a light color. Have you looked at any other colors? Most powder coating shops have a really wide selection of really interesting colors to choose from these days - there is really no need to limit yourself to just wrinkle black or silver (unless that's what you like, which is fine). Have you seen the "Black Chrome" color, for instance? That would still fit in with your original idea, but is a bit more unsual... My pipes are powder coated in "Almost Chrome", and I've not had any temp problems.

Unsubstaitated? Maybe. I guess I haven't done any crash tests with dummies. Exactly how much data do you need? This is just common sense. The bars in a front cage DO generally encroach more than a "couple of inches" - often to the point that you can hit your head on them within the range of motion allowed by your stock restraint system. I might be convinced to concede that a full cage could be of benefit in an accident where the roof would have otherwise been crushed (although this is probably still debatable). So in what percentage of accidents is this the case? I would contend that in the vast majority of accidents that you are likely to be in on the street, the cage will do more harm than good. Seeing as how in a Z, there is pretty much no way to keep the roof bar out of the range of motion of your head - I would go further to say that the full cage would have a high probablility of causing injury in accidents where none would have otherwise occurred. Yep - that's still my opinion. For that matter, what data do YOU have that says that a full cage will increase crash safety on the street? As far as this just being my opinion, find me one manufacturer that says that their cage is designed to be safe with an unhelmetted driver, wearing a 3-point retractible belt. Just one. I would contend that "helmetted and restrained" has always been a fundamental design assumption for race cages.

I've been using the fire-ring gasket for several years now, and I have never had any need to drain my coolant when I'm not using the car - that's insane. I usually do have some slight water leakage when I first fill with water with a fresh gasket, but I've made it a practice to heat-cycle and then retorque the head at least three times after installing a new gasket. Then change the oil. This pretty much cures any water leakage problems for me.

I think the point was that having a cage (especially a full cage) in a street car can be more of a liability than a help, as far as crash safety is concerned. Race cages are designed for a properly restrained, helmetted driver. Period. Thank you 260DET for mentioning this - nobody seems to believe me for some reason. Also, speaking of "proper restraints", have you ever actually used a 4 - or more- point harness? Totally impractical for the street. I would be shocked if you used them for more than a week. When properly belted, you have precious little mobility (i.e., you have to remember to pull the door closed before you cinch the harness down, because you won't be able to reach it otherwise). If you are worried about side impact, you can reinforce the doors - maybe add a door beam like on the later cars, for instance.

You also need to make absolutely sure that the chain link that was on the sprocket tooth marked #1 is now on the sprocket tooth marked #2. The timing chain usually has two links on it that are brighter than the rest (silver instead of black) - these are for aligning the crank and cam properly on installation. I usually rotate the engine by hand until one of the bright links come up on the #1 tooth before I pull the sprocket - it's much easier to get it right this way.

Did this include new steering rack bushings? Your description sounds like your steering rack is moving back and forth. Try watching the steering rack while a friend turns the wheel back and forth while parked on dry pavement. The rack should not move.