heavy85

How can I get that article so the font is big enough to actually read? I tried saving the images then opened them and zoomed in but it was all grainy and unreadable (except for the first page?). Boy I wish I could find my old Z-Car magazines 'cause I remember reading this the first time around. Cameron

John, Do you have any pictures of your roll cage you'ld be willing to share? You posted one a while back but it doesn't show up anymore (just a white square). Your add shows the engine comparment bracing but I'm curious what you've dont to the rest. Thanks Cameron

I've got a '72 240 with an early 5 speed. Problem is the shifter boot doesnt fit. The '72 boot looks like it's made for an angled shifter but mine is straight. Also the shifter comes out towards the rear of the opening which stretches the boot real tight and is probably why it tore in the first place. Is there another model year boot that would fit this tranny or maybe a generic aftermarket one that I can make fit? Checked my Summit catalog and didn't find anything. Thanks Cameron

I've got EMI camber plates front and rear on my 240 but they are noisy. The rears make a loud clunk sound when you hit a bump or even just an expansion joint. Sounds like a hammer is hitting the strut tower. It's got Tokico adj with 250 lb/in Eibach's on the rear plus a strut bar on the top. I jacked the spring perches way up just to make sure the struts were not bottoming out and they are not. I also removed the rear swaybar temporarily because it was hitting the body but that didn't fix it either. There is nothing loose so I'm convinced it's the camber plates making the noise. I'm thinking that since the top hat is a little loose (it's only held in by a rubber o-ring and the weight of the car) that it's moving around enough to make this sound. Is this normal or do I have something going on here? Thanks Cameron

I tested the compression on my L28 and found all cylinders to be from the low 170's up to 180 PSI. This is good news because I was worried one might be low. However, since atmospheric is ~14.7 PSI would that mean I'm running somewhere near 12:1 compression ratio ? Thanks Cameron

Well, I've got a 240Z comp 5 speed that's now in pieces. I think it's a late 240Z type with the three piece case and phillips head bolts holding the sandwhich plate on. I found several teeth broken off all synchros and reverse gears are chewed up. Otherwise it looks perfect - all other gears and the bearings are fine. Now to put it all back together but I can't find parts? I called local tranny shops and they asked what year it came out of I tried to explain Porsche synchros, competition box, year unknown ......... silence. Consider I live in central Illinois so finding someone who knows anything about either Porsches (sp?) or Datsuns is not exactly easy. Anyone know where I can source parts or maybe part numbers so at least I know what to ask for? Any tips from those who've been there would also be helpful. At this point I have the Haynes manual to go by but I'm sure there are better sources if I could just find them. Thanks Cameron

What do you mean stiff or mushy? It feals like any other gear on the upshift. One other thing is that it had been sitting for somewhere between 12 and 20 years before I got it. I flushed it several times with auto tranny fluid before finally filling it with gear lube. I also only drove it about a mile or two so could it be that it just needs a little break-in period so to speak before it works good or is it just plain broken . Thanks Cameron

Just put a new (at least to me) early datsun 5 speed in my 240Z and it grinds when downshifting from 3 to 2 unless I double clutch it, but the 1-2 shift is fine. I thought second gear had only one synchro and therefore if it was bad it would grind shifting into second from either direction? Does this mean the syncro is bad or could there be a clutch adjustment or other problem causing this? It's got Mobil 1 synthetic 75W90 if that makes a difference. The old tranny I took out grinded when shifting into second or third but it did that no matter if it was an upshift or downshift and I found the sychros had a few teeth missing. From what I could tell the new tranny's synchros look good and it's suppose to be low mileage. Thanks Cameron

Dont think this is your problem based on your pedal response, but I used to have a GTI that would clunk when you first applied the brakes. I never could figure it out until I replaced the brakes on my wifes minivan. Those pads came with spacers to make up for wear in the calipers where the pads slide. The directions was to use enough shims to have minimal fore/aft play in the pads in order to prevent clunking. Basically the pads would slide forwared until they hit the calipers and make a single clunk. Cameron

Thanks Jon, I ended up going with 120 ft-lb which is about what the pinion nut should be. So how can I tell if either of my tranny's are the comp version or just regular 5 speeds and if the new tranny is just a regular 5 speed what do those go for? Cameron

I just replaced the 5 speed in my 240 and found that the old 5 speed had a newer style non-adjustable clutch slave cylinder and clutch fork while the new tranny is set-up for the older adjustable type. So is there an advantage to the new style that would warrant me pulling the tranny back out to replace the clutch fork so I could use the new style slave cyl or should I just buy an old style slave cyl and save the hassle of pulling the tranny again? Thanks Cameron

Sorry but I already asked this about 10 posts below and got no reply and I need an answer so I'll try again. I'm quickly finding that if you reply to an old post that it's rare for anyone to reply back but if you start a new one then people will look. Anyway, I'm about to (like tonight) put a replacement 5 speed in my 240Z (syncros were gone in my old one) and need to know the torque for the big nut that holds on the output flange - the Haynes manual doesn't say. Anyone know? On a replated but less urgent note, the replacement tranny synchros look perfect (at least the two I can see through the drain/fill holes) but I dont really know the condition other than it's suppose to be low mileage, it has been sitting for like 20 years, and before that was behind a turbo'ed 240 motor. Not much in the oil - it was sludgy but very little metal. It looks nearly identical to mine but slightly different so I wanted to ask if anyone knows what's the difference (my old one was suppose to be a '$1500 autocross tranny' but when I got it I found the synchros were gone). The old one had a 6 bolt output flange that mated to a cv type joint and the oil fill port is on the right side. The replacement box had a 4 bolt output flange that mated to a u joint (I have since swapped them which is why I need to know the output flange nut torque) and the oil fill port is on the left side. So, what's the difference? Finally, what's this replacement box worth? The guy I got it from and I didn't work out a price it was just a if it works then we'll figure out payment kind of deal. So if it does works what's a fair price? Thanks again Cameron

Thanks for all the advice, but I've got one (ok maybe two) last questions. I got the tranny out and looking into it through the fill/drain ports and can see some wear on the two synchros I can see and both have a couple teeth broken off them. Now, I went against advice and decided to try another tranny and keep the old one as a winter project. The replacement tranny synchros look perfect (at least the two I can see through the drain/fill holes) but I dont really know the condition other than it's been sitting for 12 + years and before that was behind a turbo'ed 240 motor. Not much in the oil - it was sludgy but very little metal. It looks nearly identical to mine but slightly different so I wanted to ask if anyone knows what's the difference. The old one has a 6 bolt output flange that mates to a cv type joint and the fill port is on the right side. The replacement box had a 4 bolt output flange that mated to a u joint (I have since swapped them) and the fill port is on the left side. So, what's the difference? Second question, what is the torque for the big nut that hold on the output flange - the Haynes manual doesn't say. OK so I lied, third question is what's this replacement box worth? We didn't work out a price it was just a if it works then we'll figure out payment kind of deal. So if it does works what's a fair price? Thanks again Cameron

The pre-manufactured cages (the links in way up near the beginning of the thread) all looked about the same and the prices are decent but anyone have an idea what shipping to Illinois would cost. I imagine about as much as the cage itself? Also, anyone who has put one of the store bought varieties in what is your experience with fit and seat clearances - are they really custom designed to fit the Z or just generic that has to be significantly modified? Thanks Cameron

I have seen those harness bars and I agree they dont look very effective in an accident - only good for autox IMHO. Anyway, I do have a rear strut bar now so I could either wrap the belts around them or use the rod-end bolt which is what the PO did. I used to have a GTI that I installed both the factory belts and a Simpson harness that I used for autox but the Simpson ended up getting wadded up, dirty, rattled around, etc on the street. That's why I would rather have a single solution that would be street legal and safe while also be able to use in competition. My car had the drivers seat belt removed (except the latch) and the recess where it normally mounts had a seat bracket welded over it. I've since cut the bracket out but am not sure what the stock belts all entailed. The passenger side has a lap belt only arrangement - was there originally a should or can one be added? It was built in 2/72 so what other years factory three point could be used? Finally, does anyone sell new replacement factory belts since if I find a junkyard one it would be ~30 years old. If I remember right my 74 260Z had a shoulder belt but that was 10+ years ago so my memory is not real clear. Thanks Cameron

I am trying to decide what to do with my seat belts and need some advice. I dont want two sets of belts (one for street and one for track) but at the same time I want a harness for autox and other events while maintaining street legalness (is that a word?). A Schroth harness seems to be the way to go to fit best of both worlds but in another thread someone mentioned NOT attaching the shoulder harness to the strut towers because the towers would deflect too much in a crash. Seems to me the towers would be one of the strongest parts since they hold the structural load generated through the struts? I dont have a cage yet and probably wont for a couple years so I need a shorter term solution and was wondering if it is acceptable to tie the shoulder harness into the strut tower? Also, is the Y type acceptable because I've read a lot of oppinions but little or no facts on the matter? Obviously there is one less belt to hold you in but at the same time as long as the one is strong enough that should be all you need - still a lot stronger than stock or am I missing something? Lastly, if I need to use factory bests can a three point belt from a later model Z fit a 240Z? Thanks Cameron

I think the jets are mixed because the PO bought a pair and a single from different applications. Two of the carbs are the same and one was an oddball and was definitely more well used than the other two. Anyway I got them all rebuild, accel pump and float set, re-jetted, linkage all squared away, back together and running. It runs pretty strong but still a little weak below about 3500 RPM but really wakes up near the top end (need speedo fixed so I can judge just how fast it builds speed though to really tell). One problem I still have though is the raw gas smell. There is no longer puddles of gas laying in the throats when I shut if off but there is still a sort of thin coating of gas. Main problem with that is our garage is attached so when I park it inside it stinks up the house. Is this normal? I dont have any air filters for it but would like to get some for durability reasons. I was thinking an airbox would eliminate the smell because it would contain the vapors within inself as long as it was sealed good, but TWM is the only one I've seen and they are $400 - that would be a good chunck towards a used turbo.....let alone the $180 for rebuild kits and jets not to mention I haven't even started playing with jets yet other than making them all the same - these carbs are going to get expensive quick, sigh. Is this fuel smell when shut-off normal and has anyone solved it? (and by the way there are no external fuel leaks) Oh yeah and I've yet to order a sync gauge to really finish setting them up but that's next on my ever-growing list. Thanks Cameron

Someone mentioned you shouldn't use the rear strut bar to mount the should harness - is this right? I'll be using my 240Z for occasional street and autox duty and dont want two sets of belts. I was thinking of getting a Schroth Y and connect the shoulder to the strut bar but is this a bad idea? If so that means you cannot use a harness without a cage which I'm not ready to put in yet (ignore the agruement that a harness should not be used without a cage because you cannot duck or something). I want something street legal so dont want to use a Simpson belt. Should I just use the stock belts (which my car did not come with) and use one of my Simpsons harnesses for autox duty wrapped around the strut bar (since belts in autox are just there to keep you on place not really for crash protection)? Boy I dont want two sets of belts:( Thanks Cameron

I need help trying to identify my cam if possible. It's supposedly a 'mild' cam whatever that means. Pulled the valve cover tonight and its got a C1 embossed near the back, a little forward of that is embossed a T and a backwards B, and near the front is embossed EP40. Do any of these numbers mean anything to anybody to help identify my cam? Thanks Cameron

So what exactly are the secrets to making the stock brake work well (pads/ss lines/fluid/??)? Which pads? I'll be autoxing and street driving neither of which are hard on brakes IMO, but I'm used to my SVT Focus. It came from the factory with 13" vented fronts and 12" non-vented rears, 2700 lb, and really sticky low profile tyres so it stops NOW. I dont want to change the Z brakes for the sake of changing them I just want to match the performance of my SVT. Right now the brakes are just plain scary - I know it's got rear ss lines and good looking shoes (not sure what type) but haven't looked at the fronts yet. Just replaced the booster but it still seems to take A LOT of pedal effort to get the thing to stop. Thanks Cameron

I went with http://www.wolfcreekracing.com for parts. They were very responsive, seemed knowledgeable, and have reasonable prices. One carb's back together now two more to go. Found float was 2 mm high and accel pump a few mm short on stroke. Also found one carb has considerably different jets than the others so order #2 will go out soon for matching jets. I'll update once everything's together and running. Thanks Cameron

Thanks, that's what I thought. My battery is currently right behind the passenger seat but now I'll have to find a way to actually bolt it in place! It's amazing what some people do (PO left it that way). Thanks Cameron

I've searched and found lots of good ideas on how and where to relocate battery but I still have one questions I cant seem to find an answer to. From purely a weight distribution and handling perspective where is the best place to put the battery - if I had acess to scales I would use them but I dont and am sure someone on here has answered this question before. I have a '72 240Z that is somewhat stripped w/no HVAC (no core no blower no nothing - PO decision not mine), no wipers (again PO decision not mine), and no spare. I weigh in at 220 lb give or take so I think the best place would be right behind the passengers seat on the floor - that is if I can live with the pass seat pushed forward a bit. Thinking through it a bit the car is pretty much symetric with the exception of the pedal/master cylinders towards the left front, the gas tank towards the right rear which is partially offset by the muffler on the left rear. The factory location would partially offset the pedals and master cylinders but then it's still a little nose heavy and I need something to offset my own substantial mass. Again everything into consideration, being as close to the pass seat and low as possible sems to be the optimal place. Anyone actually scaled theirs or have seat of the pants experience here? This car will be a street driven weekend warrior/autoxer and I have to Optima red-top battery if that helps. And at this point I am not ready to cut out the rear floor like a lot of people have done to mount the battery...maybe someday. Thanks Cameron

Double clutching does allow me to downshift into second without grinding but the 1-2 shift still grinds pretty good so I'll pull it. How can I tell if it's a comp tranny so I know if it's worth rebuilding or just swapping and who supplies parts for them? I assume they have different internals than the standard tranny? Thanks Cameron

Once agian thanks for all the info. I checked real close again and I do have the 52.5 jets so maybe that's part of the problem so I think I'll get some 57.5's and go from there. On second thoughts maybe I'll just drill them out - anyone know what dia 57.5 is? I've tried to find Malvern Racing and can find a site but can't get it to load either at home or work (tried it just to make sure it wasn't and AOL problem). Anyone have contact info for them? The only other place I found on the net was toysport.com but they specialize in toyota's and I would rather find someone who's knowledgeable about Datsuns. I also looked on e-bay for parts but only found motorcycle/4-wheeler/snowmobile carbs. Motorsport doesn't list Mikuni's so I assume they dont service them. Any other good placed to get Mikuni parts? Thanks Cameron