blaze73

I have a diff and one set of inner CV's that you can have for cheap. PM me for details.

On the topic of foam...if you are planning on using foam to create a shape or for a core of some kind where it will be in direct contact with the resin be sure to check the compatibility of the foam and resin. Polyester resin will dissolve styrofoam and leave you with a gooey mess and a ruined part. Urethane foams are fine however. As for release agents, PVA is a liquid plastic that can be sprayed onto your part even with a common spray bottle and will form a film similar to plastic wrap between your mold and part. The nice part about it is that its not greasy and dissolves in water so you can release your part by spraying a hose along the edge of the mold until the PVA has dissolved.

S13/14s are rear steer, the Z is front steer. You would have to essentially swap in a whole S13/14 front suspension for it to work.

The Subaru rack is the most proven. All the info is here http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/46504-lt1-and-subaru-rack/ E30 setup was made to work in a 510 here http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/74875-510-bart-sr20det-powered-wbmw-suspension/ You could alternatively install an electric steering column such as http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0018/s0001/FR40105 Other than that, start plundering junkyards with a tape measure.

The rack needs to be from a front steer car so that limits your choices significantly. Other cars with front steer include: Mustang Miata Subaru BMW 3-series RX7 Probably some others? One of the main issues is that the Z is a very narrow car so most racks are too wide, placing the inner tie rod joints too far apart, causing geometry issues (bumpsteer).

I know this is old but any updates?

Thanks for the offer PR280z but I don'd imagine shipping 2 large pieces of metal from Puerto Rico to western Canada would be cheap. At this point I'm looking for another shell semi-locally or doing a tube frame front end.

So I took the drivers fender off to see what secrets that would reveal and...well... I am going to give the rest of the car a once over for any more bad structural rust and if there's any there then I'm probably going to scrap it otherwise I think I will attempt a tube frame front end.

Sorry, no progress to speak of...I have uncovered some serious rust issues and am trying to decide if I should attempt repairs before moving on. The project is still alive, just hibernating until more time/funds become available.

The sheet metal in the engine bay has a few patch panels (some welded, some riveted), the main frame rails have some 90deg sheet welded over them, the floors have been replaced etc. The car has definitely had some work done in the past but most of it is in the open and no rust is showing through the paint or anything. There doesn't appear to be any patches in the rear of the chassis although I wouldn't be surprised if the body was full of bondo. Its going to be a autox car for the most part so it doesn't have to look pretty, I just want it structurally sound.

Wanting opinions on my current discovery. PO had patched with an awesome combination of fiberglass and bits of cedar shingle to fill the gaps which was all undercoated over, hiding everything. Think its worth patching in new metal? Also half way considering a tube front end...other ideas?

Congrats on the Speedhunters feature! Cool build

Good to see Nissan in endurance racing again! http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/02/10/new-cars-gt-gt-signatech-oreca-03-nissan-endurance-racecar.aspx

Another Kinsler setup but this one on a 2011 Ford 5.0

Seems as though they will be making more! Get out your wallets. http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010/07/27/gallery-gt-gt-a-quick-stop-os-giken.aspx

The turbine wheel on the HE351VE is titanium....is that aerospace enough for ya? Generally speaking, you are right about the vanes not standing up. This is mostly regarding the Garrett VNT turbos as they have a more delicate design with more moving parts. There is hardly anyone running the Holset VGTs as far as I know so I'll refrain from making actual reliability claims, but the design seems much more robust.

The fast acting solenoid allows you to control the pressure to the WG actuator (and therefore the position of the VGT) very simply with a stand alone engine management. This method of controlling boost is used by many OEMs using conventional turbo chargers. Here's a description stolen from another forum....

I have two HE351VEs and that turbo looks just like them. AFAIK the 5.9 never came with a VGT, just the 6.7. Holset also makes a HE341VE but I don't know in what application. If you remove that motor/electronics box from the turbo theres literally just a lever that could be hooked up to a WG actuator controlled by a fast acting solenoid.

Small update: Picked up Z32 a trans with a supposed 120k kms on it. Looks in decent shape. Got it split and the bellhousing is ready to be machined. I will be doing the machining myself as I have access to CNC equipment and it will be just plain fun. Just waiting on the Mazworx adapter now so I can get some accurate measurements.

The smaller VNT's used on the VW diesels are controlled via a wastegate-like pressure pot and a computer controlled air solenoid.....very easy to make work on just about anything. The Holset HE351VE can also be controlled mechanically with an external wastegate and an extra WG actuator. Remove all the fancy electronics and theres a lever just like on an internal WG!

Here's the Queen Street Racing BMW (regarding the OP's vid). Just mental.....

Could be a turbo for a Ford Powerstroke diesel. They came with the Garrett VNT. I believe they are controlled via oil pressure.

The aftermarket is pretty sparse still. The largest supplier stateside is probably mazworx. Should have an update soon as well as the Q diff and axles for sale if anyone is interested. I would love to trade for a long nose R200 LSD setup if anyone is looking to upgrade their rear for big power.

Says the guy from Cali... Everything on my Z was installed correctly at the factory and most of it leaks/rusts after 36 years of driving....thats just the nature of things. Sunroof is another thing to go wrong (mine is leaking and rusting and rattling) and it looks goofy to me cause I know it didn't come from the factory like that. If you have one that works and you like it then more power to you but I just cringe every time I think of the guy who put mine in taking a jigsaw to a perfectly good roof.

This is the question! Any thoughts? Anyone feel its a challenge they need to accept? http://jalopnik.com/5302378/why-dont-datsun-zs-dominate-the-24-hours-of-lemons