blaze73

Looks like a sea king....we use them to hunt submarines/AS submarines.....they have a tendency to fall out of the sky. Go Canadian Navy! haha

Not that I have an RB powered car but the way I see it is if your gonna drop down to 2L you might as well go SR and if your gonna do an RB swap you might as well do a RB25 or 26.

Moderately successful early '80's coke dealer?......no Wear white pants that I need to grease myself to get into?.......no Have mustache?......no Damn, not qualified to own an S130

FYI Diesels operate quite the opposite to spark ignition engines in regards to the air fuel ratio vs. EGT. A "lean" burn in a diesel is so far above the ~10 - 15:1 combustible range that a gas engine must operate under....all that extra air cools things down. Adding more fuel = adding more heat = higher EGT. My VW will run cooler at 20psi than at 15psi (even adding hotter air!), all fuel settings equal. The intercooling will help EGT significantly however. Cooler air in = cooler air out. My EGT's dropped ~200F with the addition of an intercooler. Regarding how the aneroid works, the basic post below is from vwdiesel.net....lots of good info on the bosch VE pumps there. The top of that "boost pin" is attached to a rubber diaphragm with a pressure port on the other side hence why all the aneroids look simply like a pressure pot on top of the pump. They are not all alike however...the 1.9TD (not TDI) came with a untapered pin therefor adding no extra fuel in relation to boost....there are many different tapers and many people grind their own taper for even more fuel. "A lot of questions get asked about the boost pin, I thought I'd add a basic guide and a piccy for those interested in grinding their pins The GTD boost pin looks like the picture below, The extra fuel is metered by a pin in the pump that rides on the tapered section (note the wear mark from a standard GTD application) As boost rises the boost pin is pushed down against a spring, the pin moves up the taper and more fuel is delivered The more material is removed from the boost pin the more fuel is delivered Also note that one edge has more taper than the other - by rotating the boost pin you can change the amount of extra fuel delivered. As standard this pin was fitted in the middle of it's range (evident by wear mark) Note that more boost will push the pin further, up until approx 12psi when it bottoms out." EDIT: Here is another pic of how it all works

Considering a TDI golf or jetta already gets better mileage than a prius, subtract several hundred lbs and add some higher gearing for a Z (or 510) and id say you could guarantee better mileage.

Thats a marine/industrial engine....you can find them in old fish boats and such around here. Pretty cool that they were doing this back then! Heres a graph of an '05 TDI engine with just a chip (and probably exhaust). These engines are as light as any turbo 4cyl swap and you can buy RWD trans adapters for them.....I would love to have one in a 510 someday.

OD for 1.5" sch 40 pvc is 1.9"

It will stay NA. I think I will be happy with the power increase over my carbed L28 for a while but I will upgrade bits as the aftermarket grows which it is sllloooowwly doing. ECU tune, headers and cams are all on the list for the future. The purpose of this build was to get instant torque and response....as fun as turbo cars are, I decided against it for the purposes of this car.

FYI there is a difference between a VGT turbo and a VNT turbo. The 6.0 powerstroke as well as the VW diesels use a VNT unit from Garrett which some have had sticking problems with. I haven't heard that this has anything to do with IDI vs DI as many of the VW crowd have installed the VNT turbos on the older IDI engines and haven't had problems. The VGT turbos from Holset are in theory a more robust design as they use one big sliding collar to vary the AR ratio rather than a bunch of small moving vanes. There is however very little info on the VGT's as they have only been in commercial production on the '08 and up 6.7L Cummins. I have one of these turbos (HE351VE) and can tell you it is big....likely too big for an LD28. It is much bigger than the holset turbos that people frequently use on their L28ET's as the size is compensated for by the variable AR ratio. Another note about these turbos is that they are used as an exhaust brake in the 6.7L dodge trucks....on decel the vanes will slam shut creating enough back pressure to slow the truck....my buddies truck will make 7 or 8 psi of boost on decel with this thing activated!

Look at the setup from a newer chevy cobalt/saturn ion....its almost exactly like this and has a self contained control unit. It would probably need a dummy signal for vehicle speed which you could adjust for the desired steering effort. There is at least one other thread on this which goes into more detail I believe. It would be a slick setup for sure.

Hey Jon, just wondering if you had seen the camber plates that Top End sells and what you thought of them? They seem to have a needle bearing setup as well. Pic below...

This is from my experience with VW diesels (Bosch VE pumps) and I'm not sure what type of injection pump is on the LD. If you are installing a turbo on your LD and are looking to make power with fuel economy a properly tuned IP with aneroid should get you better fuel economy.....as long as you stay out of the boost. Guys who turbo NA VW diesels (no aneroid) need to crank up the fuel screw, which essentially moves the entire fuel curve towards more fuel, if they want to make any boost and therefore power. My 1.6 turbo with aneroid would not make more than 12psi before I played with the fuel.....I unhooked the WG completely and no more than 12psi. With diesels, more fuel makes more heat which makes more boost. Leaving the aneroid hooked up should allow you to keep the fuel screw at a low setting, giving you good off boost economy, while keeping the power available when you need it. I am running a lot more fuel and 20psi in my 1.6TD and I get maybe 2mpg less than I did before the fuel mods....and thats really only cause I drive the crap out of it. Another thing to note, some of the NA VW diesels have an aneroid as well thats meant for altitude compensation....I would imagine the one on the LD serves the same purpose as it is also an NA diesel....this is not the same as the aneroid on the turbo pumps and will not provide you with the fuel you need to make big power. It is mainly meant to cut fuel at high altitudes to avoid excess smoking. I really want to see what an LD can do for power....I've only seen that veggie car guy with the turbo LD in the S30 and an NA swap on youtube...good luck!

Thanks for the words of encouragement! I am well aware of the various other VH projects and will be taking bits and pieces from each of them. I plan on making a crossmember like you mentioned rearward of the stock one for the engine mounts, modifying the stock x-member for oil pan clearance and subaru power steering, likely a mazworx adapter for the z32 trans, possibly the Q45 diff with the Modern Motorsports mount kit/axles, etc. etc.....I have my work cut out for me.

Ok so I've been around hybridz for a quite a few years now but I'm sure not many of you know me because I mostly just sit back and soak up the wonderful info on here. I contemplated engine choices for quite some time and was fairly set on doing a basic turbo swap as it is pretty much the best bang for the buck but inside I really wanted some more displacement and instant response as the car will be a weekender/autox car. Last summer I found a great running '91 Q45 for $500 so I jumped on it. I've been in school for the last 10 months and xmas break looked like this... (Yes thats the Q!) So I haven't had a chance to start the project until now. Heres my progress so far.... Q rad in the Z...I'm thinking of doing a custom rad support with ducted front end, angled rad and vented hood ala 74_5.0L_Z.....thats hardly critical path at this point though... Any thoughts, suggestions, questions, or insults welcome!

Do you have any more info on the adapter plate? I assume its for a Z32 trans? If you are making them with the intention of selling them I would be very interested, especially since your just a boat ride away from me.

I'll 2nd AFE. They're popular with the diesel truck guys. I have friends with trucks running AFE setups who work in Alberta and say that the dust up there will kill turbos/engines in a hurry without proper filtration. AFE has a dry line of filters and also have pre-filter "socks" that you can buy if you're really paranoid about the dust.

Nothing but the best Power Fist quality haha. Gotta love princess auto! This project looks promising. Looking forward to seeing how you block off the rad opening.

I need NOS.... http://poststuff.entensity.net/052209/flash.php?media=nos.flv

Cool beans man. I will be running a VH and would like to use a subaru rack as well and seeing as the stock crossmember will have to be modded for both the motor and the rack I am considering just making a custom one....of course that opens up the possibility of using different LCA's and struts and....well its really easy to fall into the "while i'm at it" trap! Looking forward to seeing how this works out for you! On a side note....do you think it would be possible to use the entire RX7 strut instead of merging the two by essentially welding in an RX7 camber plate on Z's strut tower?

Nicely done. Any more pics of the cross member mounting and how it looks in the engine bay? Are you using the rx7 rack or the Z one? Any idea what this does to the front track width (hub to hub)? http://www.cardomain.com/ride/563982/3 This guy used the same control arms while retaining the stock struts and xmember.....sort of.

Reminds me of working on my VW! I made almost the exact same tool for the tranny drain plug....used an old wheel bolt with a 17mm head (VW uses bolts, not studs and lugs like normal cars). Every second line in the repair manual is "Use VW special tool # xxx-xxxxx-xx." My personal fav was the timing belt tensioner tool made from a dinner fork.

I've heard good things about the dunlop direzza http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+Sport+Z1+Star+Spec And there's always the cheap and very popular Falken Azenis.

It seems like a cool project for sure....I'm not involved with it just yet but with only 17 schools involved (UVic is the only one west of Texas I believe) and the money going into the project from sponsors alone, it makes the other student competitions like FSAE seem like small potatoes.

3rd year ME at UVic. Hoping to get involved with the GM EcoCar project next term modifying a saturn vue hybrid for better fuel economy. I worked as a ME technologist for 1.5 years in high performance composites designing and building molds, jigs, manufacturing equipment, process etc.

Whoa, your dead pedal makes you turn?! Please tell us more about this mod!