2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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Heres something to consider! You mentioned you had your head skimmed (shaved, milled, etc.)! How much did they remove to flatten her back out? When you remove material from the head, it lowers the head and effects the overall timing by actually allowing the cam sprocket/cam to rotate x degrees CCW (when viewed from the front of the engine). Slimming up the cam towers will compensate for the loss of head material. Just some food for thought!
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You likely have a worn out turn signal / light switch assembly. I had the same problem, checked everything, replaced the bulbs, etc., etc. If you are good at reading wiring diagrams, you will see that the switch assembly is part of the tail light circuit and after 20+ yrs of use, the contacts tend to wear out. A new switch assembly, if I remember correctly, is around $90.00........I purchased mine from Courtesy Nissan in Texas.
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Looks as though it would work just fine. Not likely to fail. However, you may get some vibration transmitted to the chassis, since there is no insurance the through bolts will not be in contact with the diff and crossmember. Maybe some urethane sleeves on the through bolts to isolate them from the diff?
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Awesome idea, I wonder how hard it is on the pistons. Going from hot/cold that fast, that often. Also in the article he talks about using distilled water and that is not too cheep right now either. 94-octane gas is still cheaper than Eva water. (joke)
How hard is it on pistons....going from hot/cold that fast, that often? I would guess, just about the same as a regular 4 stroke. Cold fuel/air coming in and hot ignition/ exhaust, every four cycles! I would think since the six stroke engine runs at a much cooler overall temperature, the thermo shock would actually be less than in a 4 stroke. Hmmmmmmmm!!?
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Man, thoughs should be worth an extra 20 H.P.! Someone obviously likes them but, for my personal taste....if you want disc brakes, install them.....if you have drum brakes, make then look nice...........do one or the other! However, pretty clever for a wheel spacer!
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Another thought! Is your distributor working properly? I had an experience with a single magnetic pick-up 280Z distributor I transplanted in my Z. Had similar issues, as you described, and what it turned out to be was....the centrifigul advance was just worn out. I had even replaced the advance plate that usually goes south, the shaft bushing were good, and I thought heck, this thing should be good! Wrong, the advance mechanism was flat worn out. I finally bit the bullet and installed a Mallory Uni-Lite.....engine has been running perfectly ever since!
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Well John, Is it likely they have come up with a new "TOY".....something that surpasses this beast? Or, are they just trying to make it look as though the project is dead...if you know what I mean....out-of-sight, out-of-mind!
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From what I've seen and read, these electric water pumps are built well and do suck less HP. Also, being powered by electricity, one can actually control of the pumps speed if a potentiometer (varialble resistor) is installed in the circuit. Although they are much more expensive than a mechanical unit, they do provide advantages....and they have alot of HRC (High Rate of Coolness)!
Just my 2 cent worth!
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Food for thought......If your going the route of coil-overs, you may consider the addition of adjustable camber plates as you will most likely be changing your ride height and will want to be able to change the camber settings. The camber plates that require modifying the strut tower, to mount them, are certainly better (but a little more expensive) than the unit that have multiple fixed adjustment and require no strut tower mods to install. GC offers both types.
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Great little trucks! I used to own a white 1994 2.4L 4x4 (with 5 spd) and for the 9 years I owned and drove it (on and off road) the only problem I encountered was one of the air conditioning hard lines failed......and thats it! Sold it with 130K miles on it, to a chap in town, and he takes good care of it...still looks great. The only mods I did were a set of BFG all terrain tires (one size larger than the stock tires) and I fabricated a stout brush gaurd that I could also use to jack the truck up with a Hi-Lift jack. Now I own a white 2003 Toyota PreRunner.....reason for the brand change, the availablity of after market parts is endless. Comparing the two trucks, both are super reliable, I do miss the four wheel drive on occation, the Toyota has much better interior and a much nicer ride (longer wheel base and better damped and sprung suspension), and a larger bed area. Anyway, the Nissan truck was a good experience.
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The thing is most certainly a performer and from behind the wheel I'm sure it is a hoot to drive..........however, its surely not going to win any beauty prizes! So, in the looks department, I give it a score of 4 (out of 10).
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Solution to problem........Alot of patients and a BMG!!!
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yes i know and i havent got time to look but partially and 1/2 of my questions have been answered ill repost more specific threads from now on
It would be to your benifit to make the time to search the archives, here at HYBRIDZ. It will certainly reduce your learning curve, as well as, provide you with various ways of exicuting the task. Alot of guys here are very knowledgeable and experienced, doing mods to the Z car....there just isn't a better place to find the RIGHT information, than here!
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Zguy36 is so correct in his statement...."You don't get energy for free". But, if you decide to purchase this item and use it, please remember not to smoke anywhere near it.....if you know what I mean!
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Is it possible that its actually the rear wheels doing the skip and hop? If so, it could be a relatively tight, clutch type, LSD causing them to skip and hop in a slow tight turn! Just something to consider!
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The good news is, you may be able to stuff an LS1 under the hood!!!
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Interesting read, this post is! I, for one, look at these poorly written posts and just assume that the people who write them just have a very limited education! I tend to just pass these sort of posts over....no responce. What else is there to do, when you can't even decipher their code!!? Logic may imply that, if one is not capable of writing a comprehensive question, then likewise they are incapable of understanding a comprehensive answer!!! The old computer saying (GIGO) still holds true.....garbage in, garbage out.
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Now thats the kind of news I love to see/hear!!!!
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From the photos and explanations provide by the seller, it appears he is trying to off a poorly thought out and executed brake conversion. Don't waste your $$$. The M/C brace should give you some insight into the sellers mindset!!! It appears that the caliper mounting bracket demensions are a bit fat and have positioned the caliper/pads too far out....hence the untouch portion of pad material.
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I believe they are all the same, from early 240Z through the 280Zs. As a matter of fact, the right and left hand units are identical.....one part was manufactured and used for both the right and left hand rear LCA.
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i just got my fidanza flywheel in the mail today and was wondering if these scratches will affect anything. My digi cam isnt working so ill have to post pics later. They seem to be very fine scratches but some are very visible. I dont think it should cause any failures (heat glazing, etc). These are located right on the surface area where the clutch disc sets.
Is this a new unit or used? If it is a new unit, it is likely that the scratches you see are nothing more than machining marks. If it is a used unit, it may be that the scratches are small surface cracks created from heat (hard use or abuse). Usually, there will be discoloration along with the tiny surface cracks.
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Yeah, that's what we need here...some dirty mouthed tension bisket posting his frustrations! Yeah right! I alway wonder if these people eat with the same mouth. However, I did get a laugh out his Car-domain post.
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I supose if you take the time to properly mask/block off all the appropriate area you don't want the powder coat to get on or in, then why not do it, as long as it blows your skirt up...so to speak!
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traub83,
As others have mentioned, coilovers will benfit you with corner height adjustment/loading, additional inside clearance for wider tire/wheels, provides an easier process for changing out springs (no spring compressor required), and they look cool as hell. Also as mentioned, if dropping your Z 1 1/2" to 2", it is advisible to also shorten the strut housing tube in order to maintain proper damper travel in bump and rebound. If you don't, you will wind up with very little bump travel and a ton of rebound travel. Do you need coilover for a street car??? No! Do you want the ability to set your ride height so your wider tire/wheel setup looks correct in the wheel well??? Them yes, install coilovers.
My 240Z is a street car, setup for enjoying the tight twisty roads in my area, and I have coilovers on all corners, shortened struts, quick steering knuckles, adjustable camber plates all around, urethane bushing thoughout, 10" 200 lb front springs, 8" 275 lb rear springs, Tokico non-adjustable dampers, 17" x 8" (f), 17" x 9" ® three peice wheels, etc., etc. Anyway, I love the way the car works....just as I had hoped! I do however have isses to deal with when driving.....I avoid all speed bumps and obsticles of that nature and some might think my setup is a bit to tight for a cushy ride. Well, generally speaking you're not going to get that great cornering ability from a car with soft suspension and skinny tires. It all comes down to what you intend to use your car for. So, keep doing your homework. When you feel comfortable with what you learn about setting up a Z suspension and them proceed.
Mechanical Water temp gauge sensor location
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
You should'nt have a coolant flow issue.... except you won't have a heater feed. The only thing I can tell you, and this may be a good thing, is with the sensor at the rear of the head as opposed to the stock forward location, the temperature is likely a bit higher at the rear of the head as opposed to the front of the head. So, gauge readings may be slightly higher than if the sensor was in the front of the head. If you have an electric fan and it is activated by the sensor you should see little if any difference in the gauge readings.