2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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I have to agree with 2126 abd Zguy36....
There is no more force applied to the engine tranny when mounting the diff solidly... Hence the telescoping AND universal jointed driveshaft... The engine/tranny and the Differential are DIVORCED...
There may be a difference in "feel" because the deflection of the soft differential mount is gone... less "windup"... the drivtrain will feel more solid... but this would not add stress to the engine/tranny mounts...
JohnC is correct and the solid mustache bar is a great idea... the differential front mount takes force in 2 planes...vertical...and fore and aft... fore and aft does not seem to be that big of a problem... it is the vertical force that tears things up... I am going back to a soft mount and I am adding a "strap" to hold it against the NEW crossmember under accelerating force...
Just to clearify my point....I did not say there is less force on the eng/trans/driveshaft.....what I implied was, the force is actually greater at the eng/trans/driveshaft because you no longer have the soft mounts at the diff to absorb some of that energy. That energy has to be going somewhere and it's no longer getting absorbed by the soft diff mounts. Consiquently, that force (torque) is how being placed back on the eng/trans/drieshaft. Remember, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction!
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All very interesting replies! I believe anytime you alter a part, of a system, that was originally designed to function one way and then you drasticly change it without altering the complete system, you are asking for early failures....it's just common engineering knowledge. Regarding jmortensen's reply about having a diff ridgidly mounted and the eng/trans soft mounted....the only thing that changes is that the energy the old soft mounted diff used to absorb is now focused else were, because the new soild mount does not absorb the same given energy. So, a soft mounted eng/trans and soild diff still torques, as it always did, but now the eng/trans/driveshft will see a more intensity force (no soft mount to absorb it).
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Certainly is nice when your woman is willing to accept your love for cars and shows you how much she really loves you by giving you a gift created with her talent......but good lord, you two have extremely LARGE heads!!!!
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Wow! From what I can see from the pic, you ceratinly have the old school wood working skills......very nice! Used to play music myself, although I play a drum kit.
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Well Doug, The foam and covers are available form the likes of MSA or Victoria British and likely others as well. Have you tried using the SEARCH function? You will be amazed at the amount of info compiled on just about any subject, regarding Z's. If you can't find your answer here, you may want to try a visit to Classic Zcar Club's site.
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Ah, quit dorking around and buy her one of the new Jeeps with the Hemi.......
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Stupid question' date=' searched... no results
What is the lowest you can safely lower a Z for everyday driving?[/quote']
Pretty funny reply there john...but so true.
ZOwner, I've lowered my 240 and have just under 4" (3 7/8" to be exact) of clearance under my front cross member. You certainly must pay attention to what you drive over and speed bumps are definitely a NO NO! My 240 is a street driven car and I knew what I was getting into when I lowered the Z. However, with my set-up I wouldn't have it any other way, as the overall handling improvements are just what I had hoped for. For a daily driver I wouldn't suggest going as low as I have done.
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Despite what I originally thought (and was told) the 280Z chassis probably isn't any wider. The bottoming issue with the halfshafts only occurs when the car is lower significantly (3" or more.)
So John...are indicating that the binding issue is at full extension (not compression) of the drivers side half shaft, on a 3" or lower Z?
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You might be a bit more specific......like, what engine you are talking about, is it in tune or when was the last time you did a complete tune out?, ect., ect.!!!
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The second picture down looks like a cast iron mustache bar. Are you sure you looked in the water passages really well....there may be an R200 in there somewhere!
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Ricardo, yes you can use the 81 280ZX distributor in your 240. It can be hooked up using a GM HEI module or any of the aftermarket modules that are similar. Just make sure the ZX distributor's centrifical advance is not worn out.....I have one of those that I replaced all parts in, except the advance mechanism. There have been lengthy discussions about this subject in the past so, dive into the search function. Also check on Classic Zcar Club for the same. Haven't seen you in a while!
Tom
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The only problem I see with these adjustable TC arms is that the LCA attachment does not allow the TC arm to move when caster adjustments are made! Not good! Instead of a fixed attachment, it should have a clevis type attachment to allow for the needed movement. If you do not intend to adjust caster, then you don't need adjustable TC arms.
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Hello!!! I just ran across this post. Yes, you need to shorten the left side 280ZX half shaft by 0.500". What I did was to disassemble the half shaft (DON"T LOOSE ANY PARTS, Cause they are no longer available). cleaned it up and sent the male splined end off to my machist and had him replicate the existing end of the shaft, only 0.500" shorter. My machinist said it took him less than 1/2 hour to complete the mod. When I got it back, I cleaned it, reassembled it, lubed it, and installed the boot. Has been working perfectly with no binding or over extension issues. The only issue you may run into is reusing the band clamp that retains the boot. However, these type clamps can be purchased and require a special tool to tention/clamp them. Hope this helps you guys.
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My '77 280Z is in bad need of suspension work. No real clue on the mileage on the car' date=' odometer says 91,000 but the previous owner did not know how accurate that was. What is your opinion on poly bushings vs. stock style rubber bushings? I have heard the poly bushings are the way to go but have also heard there is a huge sacrifice in ride quality with poly bushings. This car, although it does have a Chevy 350 in it, is a daily driver so I don't want to end up with a race car suspension on a street car. My plan is to change all the bushings, shocks and probably the ball joints while I'm in there.
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Welcome to HYBRIDZ! One of the first things you might want to utilize, when looking for answers, is the "SEARCH" function. There are alot of questions that get asked repeatedly and have been answered many times in past posts. You will discover a wealth of info in the old posts! Give it a try. Back to your question.....polyurethane bushings are certainly better than the stock rubber units. One misconception is that they yield a harsh ride. I for one don't believe this is an absolute truth. They do minimize unwanted suspension movement, providing more consistant suspension geometry, and they won't degrade like a rubber bushing will over time. I think that super low profile tires, stiffer springs, and shocks with higher damping rates give you the harsh ride! If you choose to go with the poly bushings, be sure to use the lube that is usually provided for the bushings....otherwise you may wind up with a squeek monster. Have fun with the install and remember to use the search function.
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A method that is used for removing solder is as follows......Use a length of fine wired multi-strand copper cable (like an old welding cable) as a wicking media. Use a gas torch to heat up the lead. Once it starts to soften up, place the cable on the lead and continue to heat. When the copper cable gets hot enough, it will wick the lead off the pillar. Note before doing this exercise, flatten out the cable so it is relatively flat and wide....like a brush. Also, it may be necessary to use a little soldering flux on the copper cable to help draw the lead away from the pillar. Anyway Jon, its a works quite well for solder removel. On the other hand, this idea might be all wet for plain old lead!
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Any hyraulics store should have what you're looking for. An aircraft supply store would have hardware thats a bit nicer than industrial or automotive stuff.
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Interesting concept! However, I don't think I'd get too excited until you start seeing these tweels show up on circuit cars! Might make a decent off-road tire.
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I was coming back from skiing. It was the roseville jurisdiction, but probably not the city. I drove 9 hours that day and got the ticket in the 7th, I wasn't cycling my mirrors enough but was driving sharp. Silly me. About the going into the office and asking for a reduced ticket, I have no idea what to ask/how that will work. Plus, I have no clue what to say, "hey mister I was going 80mph can you please reduce me to that?", reply "no", "oh, okay bye". I have a 102 mph speeding ticket on my record also, so it will be hard to argue. This time though, I really was going 80. Wonder if he just guessed 90 because he saw me brake coming up from behind him. Hmm.
I know this comment provides no help, but just the fact that... "If you play you pay!!!" Just slow that think down or take it to the track!
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Come on guys, isn't it all about the money....not the viewer! It seems the latest trend (OK, maybe it's been going on for some time how) on the tube is DRAMA...idiot drama!!! It seems to interest the sheeple of the world anyway. Is that because they have no life? Understandable! Who in the heck wants to watch a bunch of whinning and bitching idiots anyway? As far as I'm concerned, shows like Unique Whips, Pinks, the behind the scenes NASCAR tabloid news shows, Two Guys Garage (numb skulls) should be thown into the circular file. WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO PLAIN OLD RACING?
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I tend to agreed with ED260Z! The mount with the vertical bolts uses only one insulator (tranny mount), while the horizontal bolt mount has additional insulators at each horizontal bolt location for a total of three insulators for the tranny. Would appear to me to be a comfort type redesign!
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So sad.......Not only did GM screw up by stopping production of the Camero for some goofy looking retro truck that is under powered and is lacking in sales, but now they're expecting to come back with this eye soar. I think alot of the new generation design/stylists only have taste in their mouth, because certainly they can't put it into a car design!!! Geeeeez, what's the matter with these people.....were there just to many compromises from the original concept to this abortion. I'm sorry, if I remember correctly this is the 21st century and we have so many wonderful aids and technology for designing cars.......I guess GM thought all these things would create an awsome car! Not!!! You still have to have a person with some taste to make it happen. Come on, Ford figured it out....GT40, Mustang, GR1. Oh well! Basically I think it sucks!!!
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Wandering Nomad,
FYI, Dave Rebello sells custom 50mm SU's for around $800.00 (with cores). He puts these on his 3.0 L motors (when SU's are requested) that put out 285HP. Just thought you might like to know!
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Wishing you all the best over the holidays! You know you're going to eat too much, watch some games, consume adult beverages (and what ever else), beat the kids and kick the dog.....but one thing you certainly need to do is go drive that beautiful Z you have...it's the season...unless of course you're covered with that white stuff.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all!!!
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There are numerous good books available on this subject, but as to which one is better....I'll leave that answer to the track guys. But to give you a basic understanding of understeer and oversteer.....understeer is typically a result of frontend push. In an extreme case, the car wants to continue going straight. In other words your car turns less than the input given on the steering wheel. Oversteer is just the opposite. Typically its a result of a loose car (*** end wants to come around to pass you) In other words your car will turn into a corner more than you intended. Ok you race guys, this is not intended to be a technical explaination...just the very basic lyman desription. Hope this helps explain it. One thing I've learned from reading these books and from personal experiences is....the more you know about the subject the more there is to know and actually put it to use. It's certainly an art and it will vary from car to car. However, understanding the basic will help you understand why racer do what they do to their race cars. There are no hard and fast rules to setting up a race car, as driving styles will vary from driver to driver and track to track....hence different set-up for a given car.
Solid diff mounts cause FAILURES....
in Drivetrain
Posted
Yah Jon, I do believe we are, maybe with different terminology, saying relatively the same thing. Anyway, in Cary's case, the crossmember is failing due to an applied stress that is beyond the limits of the crossmembers design. That thin sheet metal crossmember was just never designed to handle the load a solid front diff mount will impart on it......the thin sheet metal just work hardened and began to fail, as is apparent from the stress cracks. Boy, sometimes providing detailed information from your brain to the keyboard is not always as easy as one might think! But then again, I'm not a university grade professor nor am I willing to spend the time it would take to explain it that finitely. Oh well Cary...just build a beefy crossmember that will last longer. Then, you will likely find the next weakest link in the system as it rears it's ugly head and fails too!!!