2126
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Posts posted by 2126
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If you want a performance, as in cornering and braking, go urethane. If you can live with the softre rubber, get OEM rubber. Either takes about the same amount of time to install. Its all personnal preference anyway.....isn't it? I prefer the urethane bushings because they provide you with better responce in the steering, better straight line control under braking hard, and not likely to ever wear out! One of the only locations on early Zs that has been an issue for some, is the TC rod attachment to the chassis. I currently have over five years of driving on my urethane bushings and have had no issues anywhere.....but hey, I'm just one guy with an opinion.
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Don't panic yet!!! Does the engine still crank over without any unusal noises?Do a compression and leak-down test. It could be a simple as some really bad valve stem seals. If you are not very familiar with engines, either do alot of reading or find someone you can trust, that knows what they're doing, take a look at it. Keep us posted.
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IMO, the Z would look way better by just lowering it about 3/4" to 1". This would certainly resolve the issue of the tires/wheels looking too small for the wheel wells! Just my opinion. Overall it looks great, even though your rims aren't a style I would use. Now install a set of the 3 pc. Panasports with the correct amount of dish and you'll be getting rave reviews and chicks dying to meet you! Again, just my opinion.
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I'll second that motion! Odds are we'll all be dirt napping when the time comes....lucky for us! Maybe some day, scientists will also discover that all the environmental changes taking place are nothing more than a regular process that occurs in a planets life cycle and not souly caused by humans!!! I believe scientist tend to get too focused on one (popular) train of thought. Let's all remember, at one time they believed the earth was flat!
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Just a word of caution! Since the struts are major suspension components, having a muffler shop weld them up is risky IMO! Yes there are guys at muffler shops that are more than qualified to do this sort of welding but, how about all the ones who aren't? Questions you may want to consider.....will the section be square after welding, was the correct rod used to weld them, are there any pin holes that will allow oil to leak out if you use oil between the struts tubes and dampers, is there too much penetration...causing you to grind off the excess material from the inside of the strut tube so the damper fits in and doesn't bear against the weld. Anyway, just some food for thought!
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yes...i took out the lock pin...and i built the puller...mine are so tight i have nearly ruined my control arms...the design still sucks..money is not the issue...bolts seem to be a better idea to me just due to the ease of removal..
Even the best designed parts will be a real pain in the a_ _ to work with when they have 30 years worth of corrosion on them! As Jmortensen mentions, besure to use anti-sieze liberally when reassembling. If it makes you feel any better I and likely many others here have spoken to god many time during the removal of the rear spindles.
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These combo machines do have there limitations but, a skilled person can do some pretty nice things with it....albeit, it will be limited in size and the time it takes to fab a part will take longer, due to the limited power and ridgitity of the machine. I too, do prototyping at work and have some pretty nice machines to work with....after hours of course! One suggestion before you start turning parts.....adjust and lube the gibs and ways and adjust out any play you can on the machine.....it will make it a bit nicer to operate!
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My quess is that underneath that yellow paint job lies a surprise package of our old friend....the rust monster! Take a look at the left side front fender toward the front at the seam between the hood amd fender....hmmmmmm, what is that lurcking there?
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hey i found some really nice 60mm gauges is there anyway to make them work though? I want to replace my clock wiht a boost gauge
I suppose you could but, you would have to fabricate bezel ring to make up the difference. (2.625" [66.68mm] minus 2.362" [60mm] divided by 2 equals 0.132" [3.35mm]) 0.132" would be the cross-section of the bezel. Gotta lathe?
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Actually' date=' that's a common misconception about dual spring setups. Both springs are involved at all times so the spring rate you get with duals is not what either spring provides on its own. Here's a dual spring example:
1. Spring A: 250 lb. in.
2. Spring B: 500 lb. in.
Let's apply a 250 load to the dual spring combination. Most people would gues that spring A would compress 1" and spring B would compress 0". Not true. Remember, spring B will compress 1/2" with a 250lb load so it is definately involved. What you actually have is a combined spring rate of 375 lb. in. (the average of 750 / 2) so the dual spring combination above will compress 2/3" and this spring rate is a constant UNTIL one of the springs in the dual setup bottoms.[/quote']
Thank for the detailed explanation John. I understand however, that yes both springs work together, I only met that once the softer spring is compressed to its travel limit, the harder spring will take over....I didn't mean it doesn't compress until the softer spring stops compressing. I quess this is the kind of responce I deserve by posting a too short explaination!
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Has anyone done away with your spindle pins???? I heated, soaked, and built the tool to pull these f...ing things and still screwed them up...i know I can purchase new ones but couldnt you just tap both sides to be able to run a bolt through the control arm into the base of the strut ???? Has anyone tried this or is it a bad idea??? I am aware that cast steel doesnt tap well sometimes, but is it worth the try to save time and money???
Did you remember to remove the tappered lock pin before you tried to pull the pin?
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Hey guys, sounds to me like its time for a refesher course or review of Pascal's Law and Bernoulli's Principle! Not that I think you guys don't know what you're talking about but, sometimes a little refresher on these laws and principles do help to explain them to someone unfamiliar with hydraulics!
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Hey, you could have your significant other put the gauge to the test! The results would give you a good idea of how well they can...........you know!
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Just a thought! Based on what you have explained, I think you would be better off finding a reputable Nissan mechanic and let him get it running for you....unless you want to go though the learning curve! If so, plan on doing a lot of reading as well as some tool purchases.
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Damn, I'm heading to Wal-Mart right now!!! Instead of my regular wallet, I'll have one with only a note in it......"Thank you for such wonderful customer service! And by the way, no charge for the shot of protien".
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What are they? How do they install? Why are there spring coils hanging below the spring perch?
Well, they appear to be just like any other coil over set with the exception of using two springs per corner. Typically, a two spring set-up is used so two different rates are combined.....lower rate for the small bumps (street driving and comfort) and when the lower rate spring binds the higher rate takes over for the bigger loads. Seems to me however, that one would be better off with a single spring with the rate you need for your driving style. Also, they appear to install just like all the other coil over sets. This design is nothing new.
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Well, you're doing your math correctly anyway! FYI I have 17 x 8's (f) and 17 x 9's ® on my 240Z, with coilovers. Both my front and rear wheels have -35mm offset. On the front I fabricated spacer that are roughly (don't have my notes with me) 7/8" (22.2mm)to 15/16" (23.8mm) wide and for the reat the spacers are roughly 1 1/8" (28.6mm) wide. With this setup I have zero rubbing issues. My tires are 215-40 (f) & 235-40 ®. The rear wheel spacers have positioned the wheel in the wheel well with roughly 1/8" clearance between the strut tube and the inside of the wheel. The outside of the rear wheel sits just about flush with the rear fender lip....close for sure! I sure if I went any bigger than the 235-40's in the rear, I would have a rubbing issue at the fender lip. If you want to be certain about your fit, make up a cardboard profile of the wheel and put it in place with the suspension loaded. This should give you a pretty darn good idea of how they fit.
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George, have you tried the SEARCH function? I think you will find your answers with a little SEARCHING.
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AZC certainly builds some nice looking stuff and the aluminum steering knuckle follows suit. Knowone mentioned $$$! I'm quessing here but, unless you need the bling factor or reduced weight saving of the AZC steering knuckles, I believe one can buy nissan steering knuckles the same length for probably 1/2 of AZC's price!
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I have an idea...instead of spending $$$$ on shocks why not just add a short shock to increase the dampening ability without blowing the wallet. The rear should not be that hard...just weld on some mounts...the front would be a little more difficult but could be achieved. I'll post a drawing of my idea later tonight or tomorrow. The offroad guys run multiple shocks for a reason...they need more dampening than a single shock can provide. You could just get some high performance short vw type 1 shocks (cheap) and mount em' really easy...
Man, I would think that by the time you completed that exercise, the time and materials it required would far out weigh the additional cost of a good set of dampers!
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Good question.
To answer this lets assume the rods weight is zero and let’s also removed the assembly from the engine. Otherwise you need to count the energy of expanding gases' date=' heat, ring friction, and noise.
Lets look each phase.
Newton's Law: Objects will tend to remain in there state of motion unless acted upon by a net external force.
1 The piston is at Top dead center (12 o’clock). It is stopped. When the crank rotates the smallest amount, the piston begins to move down. This slows the crank. The crank is giving up its kinetic energy to accelerate the piston.
2 When the crank reaches 3 o'clock the piston and the crank are in perfect harmony. Neither is trying to accelerate on another.
3 Now moving past 3 o’clock the piston wants to continue at it's velocity but must accelerate the crank to do so. So the piston transfers it’s kinetic energy to the crank.
4 The crank speeds up absorbing all the kinetic energy of the piston by the time it reaches 6 o’clock.
5 At this point the crank must provide the kinetic energy to accelerate the piston.
The cycle repeats. This question is easier to see when you isolate it the kinetic energy. The other factors are merely distractions.[/quote']
Well put, Cyrus!
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Just goes to show you, patriotic americans get pretty upset when the government keeps f***ing with our constitutional rights! So, keep your powder dry, keep your bores clean, and defend your constitution!
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John, you alway surprise me with your responces....in a good way! So heres my attempt at describing it in general terms.....Based on what John has explained, known facts, the piston's kinetic energy does change as the piston increases and decreases velocity however, the piston by itself has mass, that by diffinition stays constant....so, x amount of energy is lost (friction and inertial forces turn it into heat) as its velocity is increased and decreased. The inertial forces.....a body in motion tends to stay in motion / a body at rest tends to stay at rest. Is this painting a clearer picture? I'm sure that some of the special coatings being applied to pistom skirts help to reduce the frictional loses. As far as the inertial forces go....they won't change unless the mass of the piston changes!
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Let me see if I have this correct....you have a 350 cu in motor thats barely streetable with a 750 DP and you drive it on the street! If this is correct, its no wonder you have fouled plugs and its running rich. The set up you have is best run at or near WOT. Your dumping a load of fuel into the engine at lower RPMs, and the lower RPMs in not where this engine and carb is itended to be happy. Maybe with smaller jets and possibly delaying the opening on the secondaries, you could make it a bit more streetable at the expense of possibly loosing a little on top.
Motor Mounts?
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
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