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HybridZ

2126

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Posts posted by 2126

  1. If you have say 1º camber on the left side and -1º camber on the right side, and you wanted -2º camber, you'd have to move the left side WAY out to get there, and this would end up making your left front wheel stick out farther, basically meaning it wasn't in line with the LR, so now your wheels aren't square front to back anymore. If you had camber plates too you could set the track width you want in the front, then use the plates to adjust the camber from the top.

     

    Excellent explaination Mr. Mortensen!!!

  2. I just love sucking up this sort of info, that you guys have gained from experiences on the track...certainly reduces my learning curve! Thanks so much for sharing. I quess its just time to experiment with the rear bar. Maybe my set-up is actually not too bad, because my only concern is coming out of slow tight corners and un-weighting the inside rear wheel too much. I just don't want to have a stub axle failure and or overwork the LSD. Time will tell.

  3. I still don't see the "upgrade" in that upgrade, even at a cost of $350.

     

    I tend to think that compared to my original single point distributor that was over 30 years old, a new UniLite is certainly an upgrade. Yes, there are other avenues to take for upgrading the ignition system, I just happened to like the UniLite system. My previous post was intended to inform people, interested in a UniLite, that they don't need to spend $600.00 to get one.

  4. 2126, I see your rear spring rate as being a little high vs the front rate, you might also try a little toe in in the back and see how you like it then. A little toe in back there makes a BIG difference. You could remove the rear bar but I think it's going to plow really bad afterwards.

     

    Thanks for the input. As my Z is currently set-up, it seems to be pretty neutral though corners of more than 25 mph. Mind you, This is still a street car with Yokohama ES100s (215-40 x 17 front & 235-40 x 17 rear) Also, my rear LCAs are stock. I'm also about 80% done with doing the front LCA pivot relocation and fully adjustable LCAs and TC rod. Maybe adjustable rear LCAs are in the future. With the 275 lbs rear spring, do you really think it will cause the front end to understeer a considerable amount? I guess the answer lies in experimentation...just like evryone else has to do. John C., any input on this issue?

  5. Geez, those units look really nicely done and price looks good too! I'm currently in the process of fabricating my own set-up and I'm about 80% done with the fabrication part. I purchased the required parts from AFCO and THE CHASSIS SHOP and have spent about $250.00 for the rod ends, tube assemblies, and brackets. I'm really looking forward to installing the front set-up. Maybe after its in, I give John C. a call for an appointment to have it properly tweeked.

  6. Check out "Precision Gear". I believe they are located in Michigan. They make a clutch type LSD for the R200 and they are reasonally priced. I have one in my 4.11 R200 and I'm really happy with it. My exit speed out of corners is definitely better than the open rear end was....go figure!!!

  7. Regardinging the use of teflon tape on NPTs. Start the tape back at least three threads from the end of the fitting! This is an aviation thing and is for a good reason. You don't want teflon tape to get into your fuel system!!! It has a habit of clogging orfices. The alternative is to use a very small amount of the teflon based pipe dope...just enough to fill the threads and no more! After install a NPT fitting with teflon based pipe dope, just wipe the excess off for a clean look. If you use the tape, it is harder to remove the excess and if you prefer to leave the excess, you have to live with a white ring around the fitting.

  8. JustBurn,

     

    Stock SUs (round tops, not the tuna can units) will work just fine as long as you have an intake manifold for them. If the car you are getting came stock with EFI and you are converting to SUs, you want to be aware that...EFI systems require higher fuel pressure than do carb systems, so you may need a different fuel pump and or fuel pressure regulator....or just install a stock datsun fuel pump, intended for SUs, on the engine.

  9. It's nice knowing others feel as I do about the state of affairs. I read once, not sure who originally said it, but here is what they had to say. If you want to change the way the country operates, you must first change the way big business controls the government, and the only way to change big business is to have the consumers change the way they buy goods from big business! I think what the guy was trying to get across was, individuals have to get up off their dead arses and actually commit to doing something. Can you imagine for one moment if everyone in this country just refused to buy gas for a week or two! My guess is that the gas prices would drop faster than you can say....well, what ever it is that one would say. Sure there would be some sacrifices made, but by gawd it would make an impact. I can hear it now.....oh my, I couldn't do that! How would I get to Starbucks and how would I get to my hair appointment. Lets face it guys, we're out numbered by sheeple. It's going to be a long tough battle, IMO!

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