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HybridZ

2126

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Posts posted by 2126

  1. Chris240turbo,

     

    Here's a little trick I've used on telemarketers, who as you know always call during prime familiy time..........It goes like this: Phone rings and I pick it up and say hello. The telemarketing person says Hello, I'm so and so with so and so origanization I have an opportunity for you.....right in the middle us their disertation I say, excuse me please, I have to put you on hold for a moment. Then I just sit the phone down and leave it for as long as necessary for them to hang up. This has got to be their worst nightmare considering that time is their most important asset......more calls, the more likely it is they will make a sale!

  2. Just a reminder when lowering your S30. Basically the suspension geometry becomes reconfigured, so to speak, and modifications are in order to obtain good handling. (lots of articles have been written on this subject). On the front you will need to address a number of issues....bumpsteer, camber settings, roll-center. In the rear you will need to address chamber and it is recommended to use CV's, as opposed to U-joint type drive axles especially with high output engines, due to the angle the drive axles will be operating at. Cv's live longer than U-joints do when operating at extreme angles. And of course there is the simple issue of ground clearance for a street car. I,ve been through this exercise and can assure you that with less than 4" of clearance, you want to be very concerned about driveway angles and especially speed bumps (avoid these at all costs). Obviously, things that encounter the ground produce an obnoxious grinding sound!!!

  3. Hey Mike! Yah, I have a filter between the tank and pump. I've actually observed the setup while running...plenty of fuel flow, no hoses attempting to collapse!!! Prior to the pump failing, all worked fine for approximately two years. Mind you, the car is usually driven only on the weekends. Somehow I just think I had one of those Monday or Friday production units......you know what I mean? Anyway, the new unit is working fine. I quess I will get an answer in about another two years!

    Thanks for your input though!

     

    Tom

  4. Wow, what a lot of posts........read them all!!!! I'm voting for MIKE KELLY for President. On one condition however, you have to impliment a new holiday.........Z Car Day!!! Everybody gets the day off, with pay, to go out and blast around in their favorite Z car. Whadda ya think folks?

     

    M I K E K E L L Y F O R P R E S I D E N T 2 0 0 5

     

    You got my support buddy!!! I like the way you think!

     

    A great man once said..."Great spirits have always found violent opposition from mediocrities. The latter cannot understand it when a man does not thoughtlessly submit to hereditary prejudices but honestly and courageously uses his intelligence".

    A. E.

  5. Mike, I'm so proud of you for using the term...sheeople!!! Actually a good friend of mine coined the word and I used it once on this site. I AM making a differnce in life!!! :roll:

     

    Question: What do you call it when you find a bunch of Democrates at the bottom of the ocean???

     

    Answer: A GOOD START!!!!!! :-D

  6. Tekira, it seems as though you have found the sourse of your problem by the process of elimination. It's likely that there is some sort of crud restricting the flow, at the tank outlet, to your filter and pump. These old cars are good candidates for this, considering their age and all. The fun part is trying to get the crud out, short of removing the tank and having it reconditioned. Remember, the outlet is about 3/16" I.D. and it doesn't take much to restrict it. I've read about trying to back flush the tank through the outlet, with the tank drain open, using a non flammable liquid (no water or oils) with sucsess. If your lucky enough to have access to an illuminated fiber-scope that's fuel proof, you can do a visual inspection either through the fill spout or through the drain plug. Anyway, it sounds to me as though you have some crud in there that need to be removed. Oh the joys of an old car!!! Good luck and let us know what happens.

  7. Has anyone ever experienced a failure with a Mallory fuel pump? The specific pump I'm talking about is the 70 series gear type pump, intended for carbs. I appears that the electric motor has failed. I disassembled the bad pump to see what I could see, but it appeared that there was no mechanical failure.....no crud, no galling, no broken parts. The motor just quite. I used a 12 volt power supply to test the motor but at best the motor only tried to turn but would not come up to speed. I did replace the unit with a new one, which by the way work just fine. I'm just interested in knowing if these units are typically unreliable. What do you think guys?

  8. Brian, I've done the conversion you mentioned. Unfortunitely, I have CRS (can't remember shit). However, try going to the Classic Zcar Club site and do a search there. I believe you will find what you are looking for. Good lord, I may get chastized for making that suggestion. Anyway, I'll look through my notes tonight and see what I can provide you with. I do remember one little item......after I completed my conversion I started the car and was really happy with the results :-D until I went to turn the car off. Well, it wouldn't turn off!!! Oh crap, I thought to myself. Whats wrong now? As it turned out, I had forgotten to install the little ziener diode in the circuit. Installed it......been working perfectly ever since. Talk at you later.

     

    Tom

  9. Happy B-day!!! Ahhh! To be 16 again and know what I know now......

    Can you imagine the fun you could have? Ooops, sorry you won't understand this yet. Do yourself a really big favor in life and get as much education as you can!!! I know, it's really sucks to think about it at your age, but you will definitely thank yourself later in life for doing so. Trust me on this one. Also, look at the one bright side of a good education......one day you will be able to afford all the "gotta have" items you ever wanted for your favorite Z car.

  10. I'm surprised that with all the replies, someone didn't mention anything about the oil pan!!! Looks pretty low to me. Granted, the caz is pretty awsome, but don't you think that with a lowered Z and an oil pan that looks to be about 1.5" to 2" below the front cross-member is surely asking for trouble. Maybe he intend to drive it on billiard table. To me, it looks like an accident waiting to happen. Other than that little issue...........WOW, NICE Z!!!

  11. You didn't mention anything about what ignition you are running! If it's the stock bowtie distributor, it might be that it's just not capable of reliably handling anything above 4K rpm. The distributor could just be worn out. If I remember correctly, 327's had points.........NG for an engine with all those upgrades. Just a thought! I'm sure other guys on the site will chime in and provide you with recommendations. Good luck!

  12. I had tail light problems with my 1970 and finally, after studying the wiring diagrams, checking voltages, etc., replaced the turnsignal assembly, as all the wiring for the lights interface with the turnsignal assy., and all was well again. Can't expect 30+ year old electrical parts to last for ever. The OEM item is still available and under $100.00

     

    Just a suggestion!

  13. On the subject of carbon fiber parts, I was on another Z car site and one of the members was inquiring about a carbon fiber rear tail light panel. Not a bad idea ehh! Sure would look good with a carbon fiber hood, don't you think. When they're available, I would buy one for my 1970. What do you think guys?

  14. Is it safe to assume that C/F means carbon fiber? Yes, they would look very cool especially with a C/F hood (bonnet). I would think that if enough interest is generated, the folks that are making the hoods are likely to make the rear tail light panel as well. Good question though! I'm suprised no one has brought it up before. I too would be interested in purchasing one. :D

  15. quadcams,

     

    If I'm not mistaken, you can purchase an OEM Nissan grille that was in the 432 Z. Price!!? Well, it's probably not cheap, as you can imagine, but it an originbal Z part that bolts right in. Ther might be some info on it at the Classic Zcar Club site. They're pretty much into the series 1 cars and will gladly help you out as best they can. Good luck!

     

    It's an open mesh style as I remember. No more horizontal slats!

  16. butlersz,

     

    If I might suggest, go to some cam manufactures website and they should have alot of the info you are asking about. They usually have tech hot-lines that will answer specific questions as well. One thing for sure, they will ask you what heads you are using. As mentioned previuosly, bowtie heads come in many different configurations. Basically, the more info you can provide them with, the easier it will be for them to help you out. Good luck!

     

    Tom

  17. ZERO,

     

    Sorry but this is not my rollbar. I'm just inquiring about the one in the photo on this post. I've been looking for some time now for a unit that does not bolt to the rear fenderwell, you know, the ones made by the outfit in San Diego and sold through MSA and other such Z parts outlets. I want one that ties the main hoop to the strut towers and to the floor board area. I knowt the fenderwell mounted units are approved by a number of racing organizations, but I've also heard that over time, with relatively stiff suspension, that the attach points tend to fail.....sheetmetal begins to crack. NG!!! Of course the safety issue is a prime concern but I also would like to have the benfit of chassis stiffening with out a full cage. Hope this clearafies things for you..............I think we're in the same boat, so to speak.

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