Mikelly

Ben, I'd pretty much do the strut swap to Konis (Check the Sticky at the top of this category concerning racing strut inserts) in the rear and go with the 300 spring. Doing the 275 won't hurt, and they are cheap enough that having them on hand isn't a bad thing. But based on the info in that thread, 250 is the ceiling for the Ilumina insert. So you're at that right now. Read that other thread tech info (Reason we made it a sticky was all the good solid tech data) and go from there. I think if you're getting that kind of squat, you're gonna need to step it up and maybe even consider a custom valving on the insert you go with... We're not talking about a huge increase in cost here either... And I bet you could see those rear inserts quickly. Mike

There are 18 different arguements about this very issue all the time. My opinion is that for peak performance on a given platform, it depends on a number of factors. I can tell you this much though... I hate carbs. If you're tuning for max performance, there are a number of uncontrollable weather related factors that will impact how a carburetor performs in that situation. Fuel injection, when set up properly, will perform more consistand over a broader range of conditions. You simply can't get the same level of performance consistancy with carbs, without breaking out the tools and tweeking the carb, or cracking it opend to change something. Not worth the hassle in my opinion. Mike

Apparently they do. I thought it was pretty much plug and play, but what I was told is that the heads have some slop in them from GM and that causes these anomolies in head performance. I've talked to several tuners and they've ALL mentioned the issues with the Patriot brand heads. Maybe it's just something going on with their facility, maybe it isn't... I can't personally tell you why that is. Maybe it is a faulty CNC machine, maybe it's something else... Don't know. I figure it's very good information to make others aware of before they spend their money... I personally HAD a set of heads on order from Patriot and cancelled the order on the advice of three different tuners. Mike

It also wouldn't surprise me if he fell out of step with Gforce like Paul Cangialosi did. The Gforce guys put their NASCAR customer first before everyone else. Of course they spend about 20X more than all the others combined, so of well! Mike

I feel 100% better 36 hours later. I think it was just pulled muscles. I'm still a little stiff, but I'll be better by mid week for sure. I've got a busy schedule this week, but I plan to install the motor/tranny by the weekend. Pete, I think the external slave cylinder is going to be MUCH easier than we originally thought. This is going to be cake, about $50 in parts and some fabrication for a bracket. This is really that simple. Once I get the motor and trans in place, I will finish up the wiring and then the dash, and start on the rear Q45 craddle. Mike

No Mikie, We'll just call you that ricer kid! JamieT. just bought an integra as well... Must be something in the water lately. Mike

I spoke with the guys with Techno-toy Tuning on Friday of this past week about their product line, their experiences, and some that I've had with suspension designs... These guys aren't hobby shopping. They are a full production facility that only produces parts full time for a living, and not someone like myself when I ran ZF Racing Suspensions as a side venture, or others we rely on for parts in the Zcar world. Based on what I learned when I spoke with them, I believe their parts are truly worth a second or third look. The are good looking, and certainly almost "bling" to look at. However, they are sending these parts to teams in Africa in support of Ralley racing. That says a LOT about the integrity of the parts. The reason I mention this here is that they have now started offering camber plates for Datsun Zs, and they can provide insterts for the monoballs to fit which ever shaft you require for strut insert diameter. I'll be picking up four plates from them shortly and doing a full write up for the install. Mike

My first cartrailer didn't have brakes. It wasn't a big deal, you just had to drive slower, give more gap and be extra cautions in the rain. The Trailer I bought from Doug Carrow (Synlubes) has trailer brakes and is a very well made trailer. I'll keep it until I move to an enclosed unit. For the money, this trailer in Atlanta would be a good deal for sure. You can retrofit electric brakes for less than $250. Mike

What are your plans for using this car with this configuration? The reason I ask is because we've had this debate over on Corvetteforum. Most guys who've been using superchargers in general are having good success with them on LS1s (I know you guys are talking about the traditional SBC, But keep reading) in street applications and at the drag strip. However, Everyone who has tried to use them at road course events has dealt with two major issues... Belt throws are common and HEAT is even more of a problem. My guess is this would be an issue in general with any supercharger configuration. I did a bit of research two years ago on Supercharging the traditional SBC. I'd look for a four bolt block, or use splayed caps with a two bolt block. I'd also stud the block at the crank and heads and I'd also O-ring it. I'd absolutely use forged rods and pistons. You'd also want to PIN the harmonic balancer at the crank. Can you slap a S/C on a regular stock bottom SBC? Sure. However, how long will it last? If you have your motor appart, or haven't installed one yet, I'd build something fortified to handle the boost. Will it fit? I think it will. It will be a tight fit, but my guess is you'll have to really do some customizing. I'd personally not go the carbed S/C route. Get an FI ported intake and do TPIS setup with a TB. You'll need a standalone FI computer, but tuning it will be much better in the long run. Also, I'd not buy anything BUT a procharger right now. Their warranty is top shelf, and their kits and well made and solid. I've also been told that their tech support is awesome. Mike

I had a little bit of a dull ache in my lower back yesterday afternoon that grew into a full on "pulled lower back" last night. Six 220mgs of Aleve, and two glasses of the Macallen 12 year scotch got me through last night. This morning I woke up to about 6-8inches of the white stuff, which is NOT normal for us. There's no way I'm going to even look at a snow shovel... Not a chance! So, needless to say, I will NOT be installing the motor and trans today. I'm going to wait until the back is feeling a little better. I WILL go ahead and order the clutch kit, and get that coming to me. Mike

Bastaad, Shop for a rate, get qoutes on the timeframes you're interested in and they will calculate your payment for you. That'll tell you if it is worth it or not. I can see the reduction in interest saving you between $400-800 on a five year note. Mike

Joshua, In the paperwork that came with my bellhousing it outlined that UNLESS the flywheel was from Mcleod (And they gave a partnumber) you would have to have 1/8th inch material removed from the face of the flywheel. The only reason I'm going with an external setup is for the easy of bleeding and replacement. When I called Keisler, they didn't want to give me the part number for the release bearing you you have and told me the cost would be $300. The other units I've looked at from McLeod and Tilton, although very well made, are very expensive as well, and if I can use an external setup, it will be easy to maintain and bleed, plus repair/ replacement won't be a big deal. Mike

I'm gonna use Phil's link, use the Toyota or a Chevy Truck Slave, and make a bracket for this... I'll have something worked up next week, and then I'm going to go ahead and finish up this puppey! I'm pretty sure that JTR references a Slave Cylinder in their book... I'll have to dig it up! Mike

Just got the word over on Corvette Forum from former WSC driver Dave Farmer that they cancelled. He's going through Danville and it's snowing like crazy. Apparently there were enough serious concerns about safety that they only got two sessions in. For once, I'm glad I didn't sign up... Mike

So yesterday I moved the car from it's spot in the garage over to my service bay where the Vette normally sits, and were the lift is. I also moved the motor, the motor lift, and the transmission/bellhousing over to the front of the car. I then cleaned up and pulled the Vette into the Datsun's place and called it a night. Today, I went out, lifted the motor and unbolted it from it's little engine stand, bolted the block out plate and flywhee up, and attached the transmission to the motor. I had installed the clutch fork on the ball. Once all that was done and the mounts were bolted up, I took the S&S header and checked it for clearance on the clutch fork and there is PLENTY. NOW, I was going to use an internal hydraulic release bearing, but I really don't like dicking with the one on my C5, so I am in search of a slave cylinder that will work with the Mcleod bellhousing and give the correct amount of stroke. It must be a PUSH style. This WILL work, and the bellhousing is made to use one, but the question is which one... I'm posting this here because this has been discussed in other threads. I'll post what I find as I search. Anyone else with ideas, please feel free to chime in. First search will be on Chevy Talk... In the meantime, I'm going to go ahead and install the motor and transmission so I can finish up the trans mount. I'll have to remove it all to install my clutch kit, and to remove the 1/8th inch of material from the flywheel face as McLeod requires for their bellhouisng. However, That'll be easy enough with the car on the lift and my trans jack in place... I'd love to be able to throw fire to this beast within the next 30 days! The plan is to copy this sort of: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=92406 Mike

I can't tell you the technical answer to that. What I was told in a letter from the tech folks who run the inspections for the silverstate challenge and other open road events was there was enough concern and apparently more than one example of ERW tubing failing in situations where DOM wouldn't. A while back I was building a car and we were forced to remove the cage because it wasn't DOM. I had about 60 hours in the cage work, and I wasn't the fabricator, I was the helper. We weren't real happy when we were told on the phone that the cage wouldn't pass tech. They (the organizers/ tech folks) then sent us the information in writing. Not long after that the folks at SCCA followed suit in their rules. Someone smarter than I could give you the technical reasons and an engineering statement on metalurgy failures in ERW vs. DOM. Mike

JT, Do you see a Porsche that looks like this? http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/dat74z/detail?.dir=69e7&.dnm=1868.jpg&.src=ph That's one of our own's GT3. Tell Jim I said Keep it on the track!!! Mike

Ben YOU of all guys should be able to sport that shirt... Your work is seen on a LOT of single moms swinging on brass poles for dollar bills! For the record, I'm only allowed to wear my "single moms" t-shirt to car events or here at home with car guys over... otherwise, I'm whacked at the knees by the missus... I'm whipped too! Mike

Hmm... I don't know the answer to that one, But I bet Mr. Coffey does. He's an Autopower dealer. Mike

I have taken the liberty of deleting the offending post and its responses (Mine included)... Contact me offline if you care to discuss it. Let's let Ben enjoy his new numbers and relate his experiences, shall we? To the new member, I hope your next attempt at posting is more thoughtful and steeped in technology. I'm not gonna allow this thread to go down hill... And I'm not gonna lock it if at all possible. Mike

Bingo POP. He's got a BUNCH more power in there! Ben, you're doing the right thing to just continue down the path you've headed down. Mike

Scott, read your PM. Ben, I know of a handful of drivers who can fully utilize 400WHP. The rest are just pretenders who whip out their peepees to brag about power they don't have the talent to use. So the bottom line is you're making 450WHP which is damned impressive for a car that obviously has more on tap. And let's not forget that you're making that horsepower and torque where the air is thin... Up there! Mike

I didn't see this mentioned when scanning the latest posts... The ERW bar isn't LEGAL for SCCA. Only DOM material is allowed with mild steel these days. I'd not get the ERW bar personally. FYI, my cage is built out of .120 1.5inch tubing... You'll be fine with the 1.75 DOM. The tubing is stronger than the 2.0 ERW tubing. Mike

Moriden, I know you was asking about the ETP head. My point in mentioning the Patriot heads is to illustrait the problems some of the LSx head providers are having in providing a reliable, repeatable performance head for the LSx platform. Katman, You'r correct. We see it all the time at the track... Some guy in a Viper, Vette, or other big stick car... They're getting lapped by guys in e36 BMWs all day long. They aren't smooth, don't carry enough momentum, aren't smooth, and haven't gotten the technique down. Big HP only masks the mistakes of bad drivers until they have a BAD accident. Mike

In my opinion, it boils down to a few uncontrollable factors... Typically, you have a timing issue between the ideal buyer and the seller. Getting the two together is the big unknown that sometimes works great and the seller gets his asking, or even MORE. Sometimes, as Bastaad found, it doesn't work out. Mike