Mikelly

Well I work with the Communications and Network engineering group for an agency in the government... I'm ok so long as it doesn't interfere with my work and as long as I don't do any monetary transactions through my work computer or surf porn at work. I actually think I'd be more productive without the internet at work, but I wouldn't dream of mentioning it to my boss! Mike 8)

Yea, when I saw the passthrough on that one, I knew that I wanted it... I may eventually split off that amp and run a seperate sub amp to drive the 12 inch unit. So I figured it was a good choice... Looks awesome with the blue lights lit up in the dark! May have to get another of the same brand. Mike 8)

Well I got my system installed in the Vette last night... I bought this Amp Yesterday and paid more for it 'cause I got it local... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=38638&item=7937574803&rd=1 Sucks to see it about $75 cheaper, but I can go back on them if it craps out. I still have to get the right gage fuse link, since the one I was using with my bass tube was 8 gage... We did the math on my system while I was at the shop, and calculated the sum of the parts, with my intended use, and they recommended I NOT install a capacitor since I'm not one who is BIG on HUGE bass... After hooking the amp up to the four 6.5s I could have been fine with that combo... Only thing I really like about this amp is that it has line outs so I COULD add an additional amp for JUST the sub later on, with a power distribution block... I was very happy with the tunability of this amp, and didn't feel bad paying $200 for it until I saw this link... BUt oh well... I save so much money bargain hunting that once in a while it is OK to pay more I guess... One thing about this system... It is CLEAN and LOUD... I cleaned up the 4 speakers tremendously, and can now appreciate the quality of those four 6.5s much better... The wife was NOT so happy with the bass because it is a bit loud, so I'll be dialing the gains down a bit. Thing rocks now! Today I'll go back and put in the fused link, add a grill for the sub, since I'll still use the deck space and don't want something poking through it. I'll also go back and tidy up the wire lengths because I purposely left everything long in the moch up... But I must admit, with a car that looks as good as this vette, the audio should be as nice... Now I think it is. I'll take pics when all is done and clean! Mike 8)

http://www.thelapd.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=thelapd&Category_Code=bpksgs The rear brake kit in this link are the brakes I just installed on the rear of my vette. I'm going to run stock 13inch front and 12inch rotors and calipers on the Z... When we sort that out, Ill then be able to run the Baer brakes as well... In the pics you can see the Z06 brake ducts...Just got those off a recked Z06 as well and I hope to have those in as well. Mike

Got the box and Farrenheit CK12 in tonight... Fits very nicely... I also dug up the instructions for the Head unit and I've got an issue... one less set of jacks for the amp... Looks like I'll be running a 4 channel, all four 6.5s to the front channel and the sub through the back channel... So now I need a Capacetor, an amp, and I guess I'll run a 4 gage feed to the amp. Fortunately I've got a decent audio wholesale place up the street... Mike 8)

Well I for one did not lose that much, and what I lost, I didn't "feel". It helps to just NOT OPEN your statements! And Michael, You've been to my house and should know by now that I eat well... To much so! Seriously, I know some of you guys are hurting, and don't have the luxuries some others have. Wish everyone could be so fortunate. Mike 8)

AThe ones in Doug's pics are my design... I had a few to many beers so I conned Jamie into welding them up... Doug is a perfectionist and went to work with a grinder to get everything smooth on them... really turned out nice... Those turnbuckles cost me $17 each on a bulk purchase... I need to chat with John Williams and see if I can get him to make me some more. Mike 8)

Exactly! Alex gets the prize... Seriously, these parts are readily available and can be shipped to you from ANY of the vendors... If you don't feel comfortable, and would like someone to piece a kit together and provide step by step instructions, I can do that... For a fee... You would STILL be required to do the work of welding and isntalling... as well as cutting your own arms... Mike 8)

You guys make this to easy... First, Dan, YES your idea on camber is correct... For the rest of you guys, I'll post IN THIS THREAD all the part numbers for YOU TO ORDER what you need... If you have a welder, and any means of cutting metal, I can provide you with the parts you will need to do your very own adjustable (NOT ON CAR) control arms... for a LOT less than $180... 2 3/4 heim joints (one right, one left, BOTH MALE) 1 7 inch long 3/4 inch female THREADED 1 inch diameter Tube (ussually found in the SCP or COLEMAN racing front suspension category 2 3/4inch Grade 8 3 inch bolt/nut/washer combos 1 section of black steel pipe or aluminum tubing 3/4 ID for spacers... You need a welder, a drill with a unibit or 3/4 inch bit, and a grinder/chopsaw/ bandsaw... something to CUT the tubing with... Mike

Absolutely would be one neat ride. I'm very particular to the later model 240SX body, coup or hatch and think it would make an excellent HybridZ! And personally, This is a V8 Chevy topic, so it could be in here I suppose... Afterall it is Nissan, right? Mike 8)

Dan, Since it is a front wheel adjustment, you won't often find a need to give a lot of positive Camber, so I'd give no more than 1/4 inch for outboard adjustment. Our turnbuckles never used more than 1.5 inches total (Both ends threaded) to adjust out to 2+ degrees negative camber. Your street car shouldn't require more than 1.5 degrees of negative camber, so you should be fine! You are correct in that you should not extend the threaded section past 50% of the whole length. That is the issue that concerns me with Matt's design above. Not enough threaded steel going into the control arm. Also, the kit listed above is WAY overpriced. I can put together a kit for anyone who wants it for $100 shipped and still make a few bucks... The Zcar control arm is already a boxed unit and wouldn't require nearly the fabrication. Mike 8)

Mike, I probably will if it hangs down as much as I suspect it will... I got the thing in the mail on Friday and it is HUGE! I'll mock it up and see how much lower than my headers it hangs, and go from there... I've got a Wilwood 7/8th Master, and I'd like to use the traditional slav ecylinder design because my darned Vette Hybraulic release bearing is a BIATCH to bleed, so I assume the others on the market (About $200) are not gonne be any easier! I'm fighting with my wireless network tonight, have a business meeting tomorrow night, and then will moch everything up between wednesday night and Thursday. I'll take lots of pics as ussual! Mike Mike

Pop, I've had 5 Zs now with replaced frame rails/ Floor pans... Pete's way does something the OTHERS I had did NOT do. By cutting the strip out of the floor to accomidate the frame rail, you then can use some sheet steel (18 gage or thicker) on a 90 degree bend to tie the rails to the floor pans. This insures the rails are tied to the pan and that the pans won't allow moisture to get trapped between the pan and rail, and start a whole new cycle of rust prevention... Seam sealers can work, but after 17 years and 18 Zcars , I'm no longer a fan of 30 year old datsun tin overlapping any new construction. It also makes the rails look factory. Mike

The Intense 5 is a knockoff of the later model IROC Camaro wheel in my opinion... Like Jim McNemar told me... Wheels are a personal choice... Go with what YOU like. Mike 8)

At a minimum, You need Pete's frame rail design. We are having his framerails put in Jim McNemar's GORGIOUS wide body Zcar. Jim was going to coil overs and 325 springs in the rear with 300 springs up front. His floor pans and frame rails were very thin, so we contacted a local fabricator, I printed out Pete's frame rail blueprint, and the guys at the shop copied them to a "T" and then commented on how well done the design and instructions were. Next on the list for Jim's Z is the cage. His car is going to see some track days. So we're having his 355 Chevy motor fortified with goodies, and plan to make closer to 500 Crank HP... We'll be adding an 8-10 point cromoly cage to his car to make it safe for Jim. We'll also be putting in a fuel cell... Now Keep in mind, this is STILL a street car. I'd consider a 6 point cage, as I've seen the seems in the roofline pull appart, as well as the TC boxes seperate under torque loads in heavy cornering. Mike 8)

YOu know, I may be interested in this... I'll check dimensions and get back to you. I've got a cell in my car now, but it isn't certified for open road racing. Even with an outter shell, an inner pladder, foam, and a roll over valve... Mike

Crazy280, Trust me, you got nothing to worry about there! Mike 8)

Ah yes, California... Great place... To visit! Mike 8)

For the comment about "Harsh solid mounts"... I drove for 6 years on a set of heim joints on the control arm design and had no harshness related issues. Simply put, you couldn't feel them on the control arm to crossmember mount. As for the Solid mount on the TC Rod, It would add a little at the TC box, but I'd not think a lot since you still use a TC bushing. That said, I'll be happy to make Dan a set of non-adjustable units... However, Dave's design from Arizona Zcar is the poop, PERIOD. They are a freakin' work of art... The rears I've got inhouse right now are AWESOME and the fronts are too! Dan, I responded to your PM... Mike 8)

Funny thing is that the typical Harness adapters that come for installing aftermarket headunits into the C5 don't use more than 2 wires, the clock power and the ground! So I had to wire everything and have one dedicated fused line from the battery to the powered sub. And I've got one set of RCAs run already, so most of the work, including new wiring to the 4 6.5s is done! I defenitely want to keep with one amp if possible... Mike 8)

I agree with Michael... the entry fee is higher, but the return on my investment (In my house) has gone through the roof. My home was $126K when I bought it in May 1998. It was listed at $220K a little over a year ago without the family room and with out the upstairs access to the garage. I recently had a realitor stop in and ask if I was interested in selling. I said no. He said "You know what it is worth?" and I said "More than your client will pay." He said "How about $350K?" Took everything I had in me to tell him "No Thanks!". I can't imagine ever being "Upside down" in anything. I simply would never "Get there", since it is bad economics. I'd sell my toys and my Z and figure out a better way first. I know that everyone isn't so fortunate, and I once was not. But for the last 8 years I've been investing 12% of my income, regardless of the rate (8 years ago it was about $53K per year) and I've promised myself never to take a job or pay increase without investing a minimum of $10K per year ( IT has always been more) towards my retirement... The goal is to sit on this property and my retirement long enough to gain enough to be able to pay atleast HALF of the next place OFF on closing so I can do a 10 year mortgage and pay it off in short order OR move further away, do something with significantly less income, and pay cash outright for my home. But for now, this is BOOM TOWN, and I'm living in it! Mike

...Got the lakewood bellhousing in and this thing is a BEAST. I bet it weighs in at about 35#... Man... I plan to mock up the trans to my 383 stroker tomorrow, and then I'll get a better idea of what will and won't work. Came with nice hardware, but no clutch fork or pivot, and I've still got to decide on a release bearing/ slave cylinder option... Sounds like the way to go might be the stock unit. Mike 8)

I'm interested in knowing why Tim has a with a post concerning something as serious as that which started this topic? Mike 8)

The sub I just agreed to buy is a Farenheit CK12 in a custom cabinet. The 6.5s are a set of 3 way Blaupunkts that are dual design, with a mid sub wired and then the mid/high on a seperate channel... and a pair of DB Bass 3 ways. Both sets have 150watt peak ratings and have decent specs 93 db sensitivity, with frequency of 35hz-20K on the blaupunkts and 45hz-22K on the DB Bass... S/N is good. Mike

Guys, I've got an MP3 head unit, and FOUR 3 way 6.5 speakers, and have a 12 inch sub in a custom cabinet coming... All this is in the Vette. I need a recommendation on a decent amp design... My headunit has 4 pre-amp outs as well as a seperate Base channel. I would like to keep it to just one amp if possible... Is it? Inputs from the audio experts on the optimal design, please... I plan to buy the amp/ amps - crossovers as soon as a recommendation is made. Thanks! Mike