Mikelly

Yup, that is a better solution... Mike

Well the MSA setup is NOT the best setup out there... The camber adjustment is extremely limited and not really a plate type system. There is a reason they only sell a few of those setups per year, and a GOOD reason the whole KIT is one $895... Just an FYI... Mike

I'm surprised they would be so opinionated. TrickFlow heads are decent heads... And Edelbrock carbs... Yea, they aren't race carbs, and you won't get 10/10th performance that you might get out of a Holley, but you won't spend the additional time cussing it either... Dependable carbs they are.... Screw it, I'd have the wait and see attitude as well! Mike

True, My wifes 95 Mustang GT making about 275HP is killing the Bridgestone 275-40-17 RE730s on the rear of it in first and second and hitting hard in 3rd And it weighs A LOT more than my Zs Do... Not sure there is much of a solution for this issue, but better & wider tire and wheel combos won't hurt to start with... Mike

Well if they are constant rate, and they may be, my memory may have ambushed me, then I'm wrong and Bob H. is right... However, the principal is still valid excepting the rate issue... I still say that there will be an issue with the strut NOT performing optimally and eventually failing prematurely due to the configuration... But I could be wrong... Ultimately David will have to decide if the setup works well once he gets it to the track! Mike

An old Carburetor would be EXCELLENT for you to tear appart and put back together with a rebuild kit... Look for an old Holley... Ehll maybe someone on here has one you could get for the cost of shipping or something... Just buy the rebuild kit for it and you are in business... Mike

Well I'm pretty sure you could squeeze a 275 under there, and yea those AVS Intermediates, although a good choice for lower HP cars, are no match for your HP... You'll have to spend the money on good tires... Just like Bikes man, good bikes/ Cars are onl,y as good as the rubber they roll on! Might try playing with different wheel offsets... A stock 2000 Mustang 8 inch wheel fits within the wheel well on the 76Z in my garage with a 245-40-17 on it and I have about an inch between the sidewall and the strut tube... Pretty sure the 9 inch wheels would fit well unde there with at least a 255-40-17 and maybe wider... I'll have to pull one of the 275-40s off the wife's Mustang (Formerly on the white Z with flares) and see what the fender clearance is with a minimal spacer... Mike

Remember the PK QuadAngle??? My Cousin Was sponsored for a while By PK so I got a few of his hand-me-down frames and I had two rippers and a Quad. I broke the Quad bunnyhopping a fire hydrant... BAD MOVE... Made a permanent DENT in one of my shins... Mike

I've got a PAIR of Carrera Camber plates I'll sell you for $125... They will do one end of the car... I can also hook you up with some control arms for it... $300 per pair for the front... Mike

Alex, It is for my son's 1.6 L D series Civic. I'll need to make the down pipe in a 2.5 inch and I'll likely be giving you a call... Mike

I'll have to dig it up in an old Zcar Magazine article on suspensions, but I'm pretty sure the factory springs weren't a constant rate... Also I think we are talking the same issue... If he has crammed a longer spring into the shorter tube area, you're right in the sense that it won't "TOP" out ever, causing the reverse issue of what I explained. However, when I went to a class at Mid Ohio in 1995 with the Koni Reps, they pretty much explained to me what I've relayed above... Of course it was geared towards cars ON a race course, being driven much harder than typical street use... Mike

Darius, How wide is your current wheel on the rear??? Like others said, If fender flares aren't your liking, You may want to look at some other options... I might be able to make you some Shorter custom rear control arms that would move things inboard, but would require you to shorten your axles possibly. You could also MOVE the collar on your coil over setup Higher and run an 8 inch spring if your tires are hitting the spring perch... That would get you half in extra... My 383 stroker wasn't making its full 500+ HP potential and I didn't have too bad a traction problem. However, I'd try keeping your R1 beeting combo and putting wider rubber under the fender with your current setup... There has to be a way... Contact me off line.. Mike

Well guys I have a FULL day Friday... The Electrical Rough in Inspection takes place, AND the garage door gets installed that afternoon. Next will be the Insullation... You guys have any tips on Insulation? I've been told it is almost as cheap to have someone else install it for me, than buying it from Lowes and installing it myself. I'll be SOOOO Happy to be able to start moving some of my larger Roll around items into the garage so I can atleast start the process of cleaning up the other garage... Took the door opener off the attached unit last night, as the installer will install it on the new garage door for me! Mike

Actually all the factory springs were of the progressibve rate type... IE They go from their softest, most compliant setting at sag, through their stiffest, most compressed setting... In other words, there are several numbers associated with progressive spring rates, vs. a straight rate spring... My point Bob H. was that by compressing a longer progressive rate spring, don't you compromise the rate of original operation of the spring, stuffing it and its strut cartridge into a more compressed area, doing a couple of things like blowing through the rate of the spring compliance and also reducing (Negatively of course) the amount of stroke on the strut, and causing the strut to operate in a smaller range of action, which will impact valving significantly. If a strut is optimized for proper operation in a 4 inch stroke, and then is compressed in such a manor that David describes to only be used through the last 3/4 of the travel, then the stroke, valving, and general operation of the cylinder is changed, possibly causing valve seal failure, and certainly causind excessive heat build up due to the inability to disipate heat through that extra 1/4 of the travel... I'd bet on potential premature strut failure. One thing that would have been nice is to measure the ride height of the car with factory springs/ struts and then measure with the Turbo parts installed... Right now we are dealing with some unknowns... Mike

I warned you that it might be a really dumb question, didn't I? REALLY DUMB, Looking back on it... Mike

245-40-17...Sorry for the typo... Mike

Might be a dumb question, but Why not plumb it to the Valve cover??? Mike

Mark, How wide a wheel do you think you need? Reason I ask is that Pete Paraska is running some pretty wide tre/ wheel setups with his factory body and coil overs... I can easily run a 17X9.5 wheel with clearance on the tire to strut. I'm pretty sure you could get a 275 series tire under the back of that car without serious mods other than coil overs... I currently have a factory Mustang wheel on the rear of the other Z (Not the white flared Z) and it is running a 245-40-27 and I have over an INCH of clearance between the strut and tire... Mike

Guess I'm gonna have to buy a Mitsubishi book... It appears that the turbo, waste gate and blow off valve same off a Talon/ Eclipse... PETE??? Mike

And, due to the fact that it is a progressive rate spring, your feeling of it being stiffer is just the fact that your compressing it down has pushed it past the softer side of the progression, and the car is riding on the stiffer setting. The other comment earlier about shock valving being effected negatively is also correct. I think you will experience strut failure MUCH sooner... Mike

Well I didn't want David or anyone to think I was hammering him specifically... I was young once and believed everything supposed experts told me... Boy I wish I had had this board and THESE experts to help guide my decisions... Point I was making here, and to Davids expense (Sorry Dave, Seriously) is that there are sooooo many good resources on this board to get guidance from for everything performance related to the Zcar. Peace! Mike

Yup, I stand Correct it is the Mitsu TD05 turbo...I need to find out where some of these ports go.... I'll probably need to upload some pics for you guys so you can educate me... I need to buy a book as well... The idiot who shipped it packed it all in PACKING PEANUTS and now I have to fish them all out ... Damn... Mike

Yup, My bad. It is a T25 and Davy thanks for reminding me...I've got Hoovers Business card at home... Mike

Basic Questions that come to mind for me are Straight Vs. Angle plug issues??? I have straight... and also you are using an LT1... Any difference in configuration for more traditional pre-86 SBC guys??? Just questions I can hear coming from others... I'm interested, and yes it sounds expensive... $350 is about what I would expect to be reasonable... Just my .02 worth... More pics please... I like what I see so far... Mike

Not trying to make an example of young David here, but This is a good example of a young, enthusiastic guy who has been told some basic BAD info... To all you youngsters out there (And age has NOTHING to do with this, experience does...) YOu guys have people Like Ross Courigan, John Coffee, Doug Carroway, Bob H, JT1 and others who.... RACE CARS or attend MULTIPLE TRACK EVENTS yearly... If you guys are smart, and I hope you are, because you are here in the first place, I would PICK THEIR BRAINS and L-E-A-R-N from their VAST EXPERIENCES... Seriously guys, this is an opportunity you are missing if you want to truly understand the physics behind MASS in motion... David, Good try, atleast you are experimenting... However, I bet dollars to donuts that that car wouldn't hang with a Honda Civic with the right driver behind the wheel of the civic... What Bob H said is largely true... What you are throwing at your car may seem like a lot to you, but to those who spend time on race tracks alot, it probably isn't a tick above spirited driving... Now let the class room sessions begin... Mike