Mikelly

So this Friday and Saturday I'm gonna hopefully finish out the hanging of the sheetrock. Dennis gave me some tips on hamging those sheets by myself, and since it is the walls only I think I can get it done... Then its mudding and taping, smoothing, priming and painting... Man I can't believe I'm close to wrapping this thing up! Mike

I really like the look of the prototype Mustang fastback... That is one sexy body style if they just clean up the nose a bit. Mike

Matt We userd the scafold. Guy who was pretty much running the show refuses to use them. So, since his assistance was free, I wasn't about to argue the point. I'm no expert when it comes to this thing called construction so I just follow someone elses lead usually... I'll be glad when the rest of the walls are done and I get it mudded and taped... Mike

Jim, My brother-inlaw's lift is 12ft. 1 inch, and mine is 12 Ft. 4 inches... Check with each manufacturer as they are all different. I'm sore as hell today from all that lifting... Doug, How oyu doing today? Mike

A BIG Thanks goes out to Doug Carrow for coming up to my place and helping hang Sheetrock yesterday! We got the ceiling (12 ft. Ceilings/ 12 ft. Sheets!) and the back (Largest) wall! We did that in just 5 hours. Took four of us. I'll take the next two weeks to finish everything up, tape, Mud, prime and paint it. Place looks SOOO Much nicer now with the sheetrock on... Gonna be awesome when done! Mike

That is one sweet bike...Guy I bought the ZX9R from replaced it with a 2002 RC51... I love the pipes on that SP!!! Mike

Actually it is out of a 94 and I'm told a B18 B. Mike

Scotty, If you scroll down to the third or forth post with the ALL Green bike with the solo seat cowl, (Posted by Mikelly - ME!) that is mine... I have $4700 in it. I also have a complete extra set of body work and tank for it...I'm currently looking for a set of wheels for my slicks... This thing is AWESOME on the track! Mike

Picking up the gutters today and we're doing all the sheetrock tomorrow. Can't wait to get the light fixtures in and all that done... I'll be on my way to a final inspection by months end... As soon as I've go the temporary electrical service in I'm gonna go ahead and start the process for re-financing... Mike

There is a pic of mine at this link http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=110783&pagenumber=1 Mine is a little bigger than that... Makes about 131HP, give or take 1... It was dynoed just before I bought it... Has a tendancy of spinning the rear in first and 2nd and bringing the front up in 3rd... I LOVE MY BIKE! Mike

What ZRossa said... Triangulate everything...Also, and I know other guys have done this differently, but I don't, I would NOT run anything PAST the front or rear strut towers so you have a crush zone in case of impact. Yea, the fuel cell is in the rear, but if you have an approved cell then you should be OK... I'd want that crush area so I could have a better chance of walking away from the impact in front or rear.. Images of Dale Earnheardt come to mind. Mike

Ye aShorty I got you e-mails... YOu know ALOT more about this stuff than I do... We're gonna look for new rods pistons and crank and build it while it is out. I also need to find the axles and tranny since this motor comes with NONE of those... Which is why we only paid $460 for the motor. Mike

Nope, the control arms off all 70-78 are the same. The diameter of the strut tubes and the length is about 1.5-2 inches longer...If he stuffs them under his car without cutting them, he'll have problems getting the car low enough without bottoming the struts... He could cut and weld them and use either 240 struts, or do the MR2 or Rabbit strut swap some have done... Mike

It worked for me and it was funny as hell.. The 15 year old came up to see what all the fuss was over and I showed him and he got mad at me picking on teenagers... I explained that age and treachery beats out youth and inexperience every time! Love the comment "He just got that car too!" Mike

Well I'm in it deep now boys... The son had $900 saved up so we bid on a B18 in Seaford NY and I won it for $465... We're going to go get it next weekend... Looks like we'll have a motor to put in as well as the turbo setup! I'll swing by and pick up that Bow Tie Block from SuperDave while I'm in that Neck of the woods! Hmmm, B18 with a turbo... GEE wonder what kinda boost we can get out of that??? Mike

'Er Uh...How do you tell a guy he has waisted his time??? There is a difference in a number of the parts... The strut tuibes themselves are a different length. The springs are a different length. The rear stub axles are different, and actually the later units are prefered. What else am I missing guys... Mike

But wait... You mean this is a scam? It can't be... How will I ever sell my wife on the fact that I was taken? How will I ever sell to her the fact that now I REALLY need twin Garrett T3/4s for my 383 stroker??? This is NOT good... These bastards are almost as guilty as the idiots who are buying them... Mike

I asked the guys at S&W what they recommended since they make rolling chassis. They told me that most times they will weld as much as they can reach, and leave it, then run a gusset tab to the body at that point. They also said that they will sometimes run a double gusset when it is something like a main hoop to halo connection. Best of All worlds would be like Michael Ol's big block Z... Cut out the trans tunnel and floor pans and drop the car down over the completed cage!!!! Mike

I'm thinking it would depend on the rules the cage was designed around... Check with Alston or wherever you got it from. Mike

Orange Crush, It is posible I suppose... However, The car was done last Febuary, and it has been in dry storage in my oTHER garage (I haver one attached to the house) and was only moved out doors in September, which means that it had from Febuary to September to dry out, and we had one of the wrst droutes of the last hundred years, so I doubt that would have allowed it to remain trapped... Further, I did JUST the por 15 on the outter side of the car floor boards and frame rails...I haven't even looked there yet. The rust is only showing in the welded seems so far, so who knows... Mike

Couple of comments about bedliner applications... I did mine with the Bedliner and Por15 combo... I have rust AGAIN... BE CAREFULL when applying this stuff...It is DANGEROUS to breath... I got so sick and so high on that stuff and I had no idea I was until I was driving home from the shop... NOT GOOD... Anyway, As Michael Ol. will attest, as he saw it this weekend, My white Z has rust in the floors starting to show ALREADY and the car has only been stored outside Since September. The car has windows in it, and the doors are all closed up, all metal serfaces prepped with POR15 and BEDLINED and I still have traces of surface rust creeping through... Even have a car cover over it. I was a bit more than just disappointed when I saw it... I even used the POR15 Metal cleaner and Metal Prep, did POR15 one day, let it cure for three, and then applied the Bedliner... Not sure what the answer is, but Don't be surprised if your lovely pans start to rust again over time... I must confess, when you see the bedliner on the floor pans you won't want to put carpet down...It does look good... Mike

Stoney, Couple of things you can do to stiffen it up... Go over to my yahoo pics and sort through the cage pics... http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z I'd recommend gussets at all the joints. Get recommendations from whome ever you got the cage from on where to place them, but basically just weld them only on one side of the gusset... I've got LOTS of gussets and can send you some for free... Look for a way to tie your cage into the side of the car below the rear 1/4 window and MAKE SURE to use a plate between the tubing and the side of the car. That particular area has thin metal. Reason you want to do this is there is NO A-PILLAR there and it will help stiffen the sides of the car up and allow the roof seem NOT to crack at that infamous seems at the rear hatch area where we always see these cars with those little cracks in the paint! If you can, you might get one of the companies like S&W or Stock Car products to send you some larger gussets to tie it in at the roof where that little interior light pocket is as well... Again, use a backing plate if possible. You may also want to tie it in the way I did behind the seats and into the lower sidewall of the car as well near where your main hoop mount plate is... That will add lots of stiffness near the rear fender well and help tighten the car up nicely... Look through My pics and get ideas, but be carefull with the temps on your welder, and on those backing plate to factory sheet metal contact points, I'd only use .025 wire... .030 requires more heat than Nissan's fine metal can stand... Don't ask how I know! Mike

Yup The Integra Type R is the only real deal on American Soil and the B18C5 is the holly Grail of Honda Swaps... When looking for a good transplant into your average garden variety Civic. Those Integra Type Rs (The real ones) are SUPER impressive in the right hands... Nice package, and in line with what Dodge did with the ACR Neon for club racers! Mike

Nothing like being a bad influence! Pete, I had the same problem with my Holley regulator, and it stayed even with the Mallory unit. I even swapped pumps... Three of them, and two regulators. Going FI is the only way to fly! Mike

Close to your idea Tom, we mounted them at about 4 ft. 6 inches... You can pay a sheet sideways and lean it against the wall without blocking the outlet. I have MANY outlets along the walls, 17 total outlets... Made sure finding a plug wouldn't be an issue! Mike