-
Posts
6292 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
21
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Everything posted by Mikelly
-
Great Supercar rescue man!
-
Mostly finished product... The end cap on the far right houses the fuel pump and fan relay/fuse housings. Mike
-
John I was thinking the same thing...
-
The fit and finish on the flare is QUITE acceptable. However, You want to go back to about page 17 to discover the issues with "fitment" on the rears for the wheels, and then go back to about December last year to see how I managed to get the front fitment. It's all in this thread... Just gotta read... Sorry... Keep it here so it's a onestop shop for the story of this build. Mike
-
Thanks to Matt, I felt like an idiot in my shop today, in shorts, sweatshirt and HANS device testing out my new dash/electronics plan. I wanted to make sure I could reach everything while strapped in...I don't have everything mounted yet, BUT you are a reative bunch so visualize if you will... Velcro on a couple spots where I was placing stuff... Dash with the center drilled out and the FAST display attached to the dash... View from the driver's seat... To the left of the fast dash will be the traqmate. To the immediate right of the FAST dash will be the interior master on/off switch. There will be an exterior on/off in the hole where the drivers wiper arm is. To the right of the master on/off will be my switch panel/starter button. To the right of that will be the fuel level gauge. So no more center stack. I'll place the relays and fuses for the fuel pump/fan and the MSD on a piece of kydex and mount it on the trans tunnel. Should clean up the rest of the wiring nicely! Mike
-
Ok, where are all the V Mount sr20 swaps at..
Mikelly replied to Rywats's topic in Nissan 4 Cyl Forum
Dunno, but I have always thought that the SR20 would make for an excellent lightweight build option. I could see a 350 to 400 hp version. Would make for a great swap and easy maintenance with tons of room. Mike -
Couple shots of the dash moch up... You may notice that it doesn't span past the midway point... That's all I'm gonna need. Basic shape before the bottom bend... After the bottom bend... Getting there... Mike
-
Depends on the corner and the car. My C5 Corvette loved the curb hopping. It was wide enough and planted enough that it didn't seem to upset it much. The Porsche 996TT wasn't as wide and would get upset. You had to commit. The Spec Miata didn't like it much, and that was due to narrow wheel track and short wheelbase. I "think" the datsun will like it "some", but still I try to minimize it. But as Mark says above, it is often the shortest distance, especially in a series of "ESSES", like the climbing esses on VIR. And we're not trying to "boot" people, but rather get them to do as you just did... Ask "Why", rather than make some incorrect statement. Mike
-
Johnc, thanks for posting these! Mike
-
Making decent progress on the wiring, but it is slow going for sure. Soldered in three dedicated circuits from the rear of the car for the brake lights, the fuel sender and the fuel pump. I have the auxilery 4 circuit fuse block preped and ready to mount. I have the dedicated ground block ready to instal. Now I just need to start logically routing all the wiring. The biggest issue is the sheer volume of wiring associated with the fuel injection system. Crazy. Now the fast Dash adds even more. So... Next up is rewiring the panel in the centerstack so there will be no wires seen. Lets see, 5 toggles with fuses and lights, along with a push start button, so yea that'll be fun for sure... You young guys reading this and wondering why it always costs to have shops do work like this, pay close attention. I had 4 hours minimum in the 3 circuits from the rear, the fuse panel moch-up, and the grounding block. That's soldering all connections with shrinkrap and fishing the wires from the rear to the front AFTER sorting through the rats nest of wires that was the painless 18 circuit panel. This is time consuming work, for sure. Mike
-
I had a new student last year put it like this: "You have no idea how hard this is until you are here in the driver's seat on track with your car potentially going its fastest. Memorixing the track, each braking zone, each corner, where the flaggers are, and what the flags mean is just data overload". And that is just a portion of what you need to know. It's very misleading to sit and watch someone's incar video. I've been critized before by people seeing my own DE footage and thinking I'm to aggressive on track in our sessions with my clubs. Reality is if I was a danger, I'd be talked to or excused from playing with them, much less TEACHING with them. Don't judge when you see someone's in car footage. If you think something doesn't look right, ASK a question. But don't judge or make false assumptions, especially if you come from a vantage point of no solo track experience. Mike
-
I wouldn't doubt that it is correct... Sounds about right actually. Adding the header, free flowing exhaust, and the CAI won't help overcome the limitations of the stock AFm and the stock OEM tune of the ECU. Also, running that restriction free exhaust may actually be hurting you. That motor, with the parameters mentioned above, needs a little back pressure to assist you. Mike
-
Ryan, I got the flares and the rear panel from Justin at ZForce Productions. His stuff is reasonably priced and nice. the flares are the LARGE Super ZGs... Mike
-
Matt that is exactly what I'm shooting for. Mike
-
Making progress... Mike
-
My point in asking is because I would bet that all the guys that track regularly would agree that this guy isnt a risk. He is doing a great job keeping his rythme slicing through traffic. I would be totally safe following him or being overtaken by him. Then again I am used to bumpdrafting spec miatas at 110 mph too.
-
What is your experience tracking cars? I don't want to make any comments until I know what your experience level is...
-
I'm currently trying to make a love connection between Tommy and Jim on the red Zcar. Haven't broached the subject of wiring the Zcar up yet... Still need to get over to his place and get him to help me section some front struts. Mike
-
All I know is this illustrates when you install a wiring harness in a caged car, and then "add" things over "time". What was I thinking... So kids, we're getting rid of the column stalk all together, no more turn signals/wipers/lights. That fuse block and wiring is going up for sale, and we're going to wire in only circuits for the following: FAST EFI Computer - two 12V constant and one 30Amp Circuit MSD Digital 6 - on 12v constant and one 30Amp Circuit MSD Coil - one 15Amp Circuit Accusump - one 20Amp Circuit Fuel Gauge - one 10Amp Circuit Brake lights - one 10Amp Circuit Elec fan - built in relay/circuit tied to fast but does need one 12v constant Fuel pump - built in relay/circuit tied to fast but does need one 12v constant Helmeet Blower - one 20Amp Circuit Cool suit - one 25Amp Circuit The goal: We will NOT have a hodgepodge of wiring dangling under the dash anymore. We will be able to trace and troubleshoot circuits at the track without issue. We will not be required to be contortionists to get access to said circuits. Gonna be a long two weeks... Mike
-
Got some work accomplished this afternoon... Removed the dash to find a rats nest... Removed this: I'm going to make a new dash that will be smaller, and will install this: First I'm going to have to clean up the wiring and make some sense of it all... Lots of work ahead of me! Mike
-
Well you knock yourself out... After 10 years building and dumping thousands into mine, I prefer to drive it... I suspect I'll be dropping my block-huggers, and welding the down pipes to the flanges and then putting a flex coupler somewhere else downstream. I just want the leak issues resolved so I can drive the car on track again ASAP. Mike
-
Soooo Lot of talk here about batteries... I've gone thru FOUR... And guess what? It's not the battery... My problem, kinda like a few of yours I'm guessing, is that it's more to do with added electronic gear, degraded wiring. In my case, I started with an Optima red top, which I currently have in the car... Then I went to a Mazda battery from a first gen Miata. It didn't cut it... I swapped to an Odyssey 680... Didn't cut it... And then I went to a LARGE Braille "no weight" battery. None of them could keep up with the added MSD Digigal 6A, the FAST efi ECU, the high output cooling fan, and an alternator that could not keep up. That alternator was a definite issue. We overlooked it and it simply was to small for the added electronics, some faulty wiring, and possibly poorly matched wire thickness per component. It's important not to overlook these things when you plan upgrades. It's also important to know if the components you have are functioning properly. These are 40 year old cars. I'm still sorting my issues, but installing the proper alternator is the first step. And to the guy above who mentioned his failing Redtop, I've had mine for 5 years without a single issue. I've let that thing sit for up to 6 months at a time without charging it and it ALWAYS has held more than 12 volts. Maybe you got a bad one, but I wouldn't assume all OPTIMA batteries are bad. Also, check that you have great grounds... appropriate sized chassis to motor, battery to motor and "other" grounds. Mike
-
There's no way I could see these working due to that very issue... Mike
-
Addressed a number of the issues over the last couple days. The exhaust is back on the car. Hopefully it'll not cause issues again, but who knows. I'm awaiting the touch screen display for the FAST dash, but everything else is done on my shortlist except for the wiring. As of now, I'm ditching the wipers, turn signal and light stalk., We're going to ditch a lot of wiring and a lot of Stuff" not required. This coming week will be a "big" week for changed to the car. I hope to have it at VIR August 27-28! Mike
-
I see a lot of upside on this... Gear selection, better LSD available support from the aftermarket, if converting the whole axle setup, you won't need to buy the 5 lug swap parts. Those of you touting the R200 are missing all of the above. Sure it's strong. Sure it can handle power. It's NOT very versatile and to make it strong and convert it to 5 lug for better brake size/options, you'll spend a small fortune. I think I've got over $4K in my Q45 conversion/brake setup. I'll be following this thread as well as Senza Pari's build. Mike