Mikelly

John, any ideas for jtr figment of anything besides a block hugger for road race application?

I think your best bet for ease of build, ease of budget, and potential project success would be an LSx chevy setup. The rovers are exceptionally difficult to find parts for here in the states, and it is more complex with a turbo. Hell I'm cooking all kinds of stuff with my 383stroker chevy. Can't imagine the heat you'd create with turbos on top of that. Mike

Digging up this thread because I'm rethinking headers, myself. The issue I see with the 180 degree header are ground clearance to start with and then ofcourse clearance. I'm just not picturing this on an S30 chassis. Mike

We got traqmate data at the last event and with the car's ignition breaking down above 5K, I was hitting 131mph on the front straight at Summit Point. With that extra 1500-1800 clean RPM and the front dropped another inch, I think the car will push 145mph on Summit. Closer to 155 on VIR... Without verifiable data, I don't know how this thread is worth anything. Mike

Well I'm going to attempt to address this issue by installing some 2.516 inch diameter high temp ceramic donut gaskets. We'll bevel the pipes to match the 30-45 degree angle of the donut and run some longer bolts with springs. I'm hoping this will resolve the issue. Stopped at my local speed shop yesterday and Gary the old timer there gave me some tangs to weld onto the setup to add "bolting points" if I choose to. Mike

Ditto...

So I got the prothane motor mounts installed this morning, after removing the exhaust... Riddle me this.. Why is it that I keep cooking collector gaskets? Pulled the plugs and looked at them and they didn't seem grey or white, so I know I'm not running lean. This is what's happening: The mounts installed: And I just bought this to deal with the gauge issues: http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products/FS-'Dash/Data%20Logger'-0.aspx Guy on Racingjunk had one un-opened for about $300 less than they retail for... Mike

That's what I'm running now, except in a fixed wilwood hat. It's the Mustang Cobra stuff... So far it works very well. Mike

Now if I could only make these work on the Zcar: $217 per set shipped... Who knew that Porsche parts could get so cheap! They're 350MM in diameter and 34MM thick. So today I'm going to change the oil on the GT3 and swap pads/rotors. It needs it badly... Then I'm going to instal the 140 amp alternator on the Zcar, along with the Prothane motor mounts... Then I'll start trying to lay out the wiring overhaul... Mike

I've thought about buying a T1 car myself recently... Interesting... Mike

Ya know, I went back and re-read the original post and hey, I thought you were refering to swapping in just the rear drivetrain... So bear that in mind when reading my response. Mike

Sexy ride man...

I don't recommend it, really... They're ridiculously heavy, considering the whole package, overly noisy (axles bangining around against the stops) and I don't think they give an advantage over a regular R200 with a quaiffe. You'll have a ton of money sunk in the conversion as well. And yes, I've got one, in my car, right now. Just ran it this weekend. If I had it to do over, I'd have never swapped out my 300ZX R200 for it. I know Mark Icard and others feel the same way. Mike

Taken at last weekend's track event by director of operations for NASA's florida chapter...I'd taken the hood off, and the chief Instructor pulled a loose air intake tube off the airbox. Mike

While at the shop making a list of things to order, I noticed the windshield has a nice horseshoe shaped crack at the base in the center. Guess the car is flexing enough that it cracked a new windshield? Didn't take any impacts. I find this odd since the A-Pillars and roof have gusset plates welded in, and the firewall ties intot the cage with horizontal footers. Since I'm removing the dash and installing new wiring, I'm thinking maybe we'll weld in a center brace to the trans tunnel and firewall at the center. Ordering the following today: Mustache bar bushings 140 Amp Alternator Prothane Motor mounts Ron Frances 10 terminal Junction Block 7 circuit fuse block I'm sure there's something I'm missing... Mike

Dave, That was one of the fastest groups... It was the "Fast Solo Pass Anywhere Group"... The other clips were in the instructor group which is even faster. Every pass taken was safe and all drivers involved cooperated, which is what I'd expect from "advanced" drivers. So after having a couple days to think about the past weekend, and having had time to examine the footage and the data logs from the traqmate, I'm starting a new "punch" list: 1. Exhaust make over - Get rid of the 3 bolt gasketed deal so I can guarantee a solid seal. 2. Instal a vacuum port on the oil evac cannister like BJ Hines did - Need to confirm the components are sealing properly. 3. Sell my 2 quart pre-luber accusump and buy a 3 quart functional race unit. 4. Pull all the wire associated with the "painless" panel and harness and start from scratch, only wiring circuits I need. 5. Upgrade all of the battery feeds to "0" gauge, including the grounds. I think the system has a mix of 2,1,0 components right now. 6. Ditch the Autometer gauges and instal the FAST integrated Logger/display. 7. Instal solid bushings in mustache bar and motor mounts 8. Instal sectioned front strut tubes. I need the nose about 1.5 inches lower. All in all the car was very stable from a suspension and braking standpoint. The Mustang Cobra Caliper/rotor combo and Hawk pads performed flawlessly. The chassis is so rigid that the inner front tire was being picked up thru most of the corners. However, Greg Ira and I both noticed the understeer. I need to dial it out. Not bad, but it's there. The aerodynamics functioned as expected and even with the hood off, the car would push thru the wind right up until it hit the ignition break-down point. I do want to section the spare strut tubes I have so I can gain more adjustment up front. I think the additional rake would make a huge difference. Right now the car sits with the rear slightly lower. I think I've fallen in love with this b!tch all over again. Mike

Just cracked and "loose" from their housing... I'll be looking into solids, along with solid motor mounts.

Last clip... Mike

http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/ct16933/FIBERGLASS_PARTS_ They gave me a great deal and after taking it off, remounting it and sealing it with silicone sealer, it is far stronger now! The car was rock solid stable running it all weekend.

Dave, I'd gone out one lap and had to come in due to the air duct on the left side of the intake box coming off. That box is going to have to be replaced. Anyway, it worked out so I had no traffic. The other two videos show me passing cars... Think I ran a total of 22 laps the whole weekend. Car really needs some de-bugging. Seems like every time I go out, I find something "new" and interesting. I inspected the car on the lift yesterday afternoon and the Mustache Bar Bushings are just shredded. Another thing for the "fix" list.