Mikelly

Let me know whatcha want for it... Mike

Mark, is this a wetsump or dry sump pan? Mike

John, PIng me offline. We can work something out... I don't expect to get what I have in the motor obviously. I am also open to purchase and trade of parts I need for the LS1 conversion... I can do this sooner rather than later too... Whatever works for you... Hit me up on email at dat74z at yahoo dot com. Mike

Couple more pics after washing her up... Mike

John, I dunno... It has all the best stuff in it... You are more than welcome to check it out or I can send you info offline. Now would be the time to validate the parts while it is appart. It is a bowtie block with screened oil passages, and has a roller hydraulic valve train along with a forged rotating assembliy, all internally balanced. Eagle rods, Weisco Pistons, Scat 5000 crank. All ARP hardware amd the heads are conquest with 1.60m 2.05 valves. I will let the bellhousing, flywheel and clutch kit go with it since I won't be able to use any of it with the LS1. Possibly let go of the cutler intake and injectors/ throttlebody if interested as well. Mike

Don't get me wrong, I like Miatas. They're great little cars. But I didn't "plan" on buying another one... And then the phone rang, and my son needed money for a "divorce" of sorts. Without getting into the particulars, in order to make his ex-fiance whole, he'd need some cash. His Turbo Miata Project car was up for sale already, so I suggested we buy the car from him and let him pay back the difference. Yesterday afternoon this showed up in my driveway: It's got the FLyin' Miata Turbo kit with their "happy meal" clutch kit, bilstein coilovers, full Flyin' Miata exhaust system, Megasquirt2 Standalone PNP ECU, the rollbar, and sparco seats. Everything else works well too... The car has a studder around 4K RPMs so I'm going to have to get smart on tuning it. Probably a fuel issue. It apparently is sucking the fuel down pretty good. Anyway, I was happy getting down to fewer cars, but my commute is round trip 150 miles per day, and since having the GT3 delivered May 28th I've put over 10K miles on it alone. So, We'll use this as a commuter car and hopefully it will be as fun as the combo sounds. I really didn't want another Miata...

So this morning I measured my oil capacity again, showing 7 quarts for the oil pan, fluid verified, 1/2 pint for the oil filter canister, 1/2 pint for the mocal oil cooler, 7/8th of a pint for all oil lines, and 2 quarts for the accusump. So 10 quarts for everything should be more than sufficient. I also went back and measured the depth of the dipstick to confirm it was indeed long enough. It's between an 1/8 and 1/4 inch from the bottom of the pan. So now I have baseline confirmation there. Just got to get the motor to a machine shop to have it cleaned up and checked out. The crank will need to be polished at a monimum on the main journals. Mike

In regards to the diesel grade oils not being "happY" with cat-converters, I think that is wrong. On both my porsches we've been running M1 TDT 5W40.The watercooled Porsche Boxers really like it better than the factory fill 0W40 originally spec'ed in them in 2001-2005. And those two cars do have cat converters. No issues with either. And I was advised to run this oil by Porsche shops, so that's why I think the issue with the zinc building up in cats is incorrect or not as great a concern as might have been reported elsewhere. I know Porsche wouldn't recommend something like this if the car is still under warranty. Mike

Thanks guys. It was several years ago. But needless to say, the Datsun will need a motor freshening. 3 years later, here we are... I think I originally mentioned this about 20 pages back! Mike

Man Rags was spot on... Mains are shot! Center: Front end: Rear end: Driver's side #2 piston is fine... Same thing with driver's side #1. So I think the rods are OK, but we'll replace all of them. I need to confirm that there isn't any permitex in the oil passages anywhere. Now onto what's in the oil pan... See the sludge in the bottom. Well with no oil in the pan, I removed the drain plug and it looked like this… It’s supposed to look like this: So I took the pan and sat it on end and then took a magnet on a wand and put it into the bottom of the pan, dragging if around… Before: During: After: Obviously there is damage to the motor, but I have to believe it was due to the dry start up that was obviously understandable as to why it happened. Life happens and when your mom calls to tell you she has breast cancer, your world stops. And mine did… So this is a reasonable price to pay for stopping what I was doing, putting the tools away, getting in my car and going to be with my family. I think this motor has a total of “maybe†10 hours idle time, and maybe 4 hours run time. Oh well, we’ll fix it and drive it while we built the LS1 motor. Mike

Thanks Rags! I'll check the main caps and rod caps, as well as the oil pump this afternoon, then look at the cam/timing chain... Hoping that it's just bearing material and nothing else. I also expect there is likely going to be some permitex somewhere in some passage causing the oil out the dipstick issue. Might have to think about a vacuum pump install. Mike

Well this is even more peculiar... No metal in the valley and the roller lifters/rockers/pushrods show nothing... Pulled the heads and there is ZERO evidence of any issues in the cylinders... No scoring, nothing... Some evidence of "sludgy" gunk like assembly lube in the pan, but the bottom of the motor looks clean, with no metal... Didn't pull a main cap or rod cap just yet, but that has to be it, because I'm not seeing anything else so far. Mike

I don't know if it would adhere to it. It's a vinyl material when it dries... Mike

Pete, I haven't had the chance to remove the pan or a head yet. I'll get to that this weekend. My strategy will most likely be to have the 383 stroker freshened. Then run it for the rest of this year and try to sell it in the spring. I'll build the LS based motor over the winter. The LS swap is def. in my future, for sure. Getting this platform to sub-2500 pounds at 450 to 500 wheel HP would make the "Perfect" check box for me... Mike

Busy few hours this afternoon... After just under two hours I had everything disconnected and the motor out of the car: Mike

Yup... Might consider something like this for the Datsun's body in the spring! Mike

Well shoot... After reading THIS thread, I'm seriously thinking I need to build my LS1 motor. Will be more in the long run from a cost standpoint, but man I think that additional 100# off the front of the car would be nice... Mike

So I hate brake dust on wheels. I like black wheels, and I figured why the heck didn't Porsche put black wheels on this car? So what's this got to do with HybridZ? Lots, because we are a DIY site. I bought the Black gloss wheel kit a few weeks back, and on Sunday I did this: Weather has been crappy so I didn't get any decent outdoor shots of it, but so far the product seems nice, and is apparently durable. The wheel lock has already fallen and hit one wheel without even marking the surface. So for those of you on a tight budget and having a set of wheels you want to rescue, this may be the ticket. Be forewarned that you really need to read the directions on the package. Make sure to use paper towels and the cleaning solution to clean and prep the surface after you have washed and dry'ed the wheels. Don't apply coats unless you have allowed each coat to dry for minimum of 30 minutes, plus FOUR HOURS cure time, per coat. Also, the clear coat takes 8 hours to cure. It's a long process, but hopefully worth it. Mike

Guy that bought my Porsche Turbo has one and it is a beast. They are amazing cars... Mike

OK so now the motor is officially officially coming out. In draining the oil this evening I found more sparkle in the oil than you'd find in a strip club. So we're going to have to go through the motor and find the culprit. Something expensive def. got ate up in the process... There was over half an inch of "gunk" stuck to the drain plug on the oil pan and a lot more in the filter... It ain't pretty. So I've started the process of disconnecting "things" and expect to pull the motor this week in the evenings. Then I'll load the car up in the car trailer and store it until I get the motor rebuilt to better, more durable specification. Mike

Here is the question I would have, based on my 5 years living with a 650HP supercar... What kind of power do you think you need and what is the intended use?

I agree 110%. I get back from vacation later today and I'm already mentally working on the car... Mike

That is Mark indeed... Those clips were shot when I was still new to the Porsche and still learning my way, and Mark was sorting his car. My advantage in HP was no match for his slicks and weight advantage, or his lack of fear. Mark is a hot shoe driver. Don't let him fool you... He and John Tedder both (JT1 here)! Mike

Matt, It's simply you posting results. Simple as that. My car, hampered by significant mechanical gremlins ran only two laps and ran as fast as Greg Ira's customer's car at Summit Main and that car was in a vintage class above ITS. Had my car not been hampered with eleectrical/oil issues, I would have dropped at minimum another 5-7 seconds. But when you have no RPM above 4800, you can't very well run SCCA T1 times (ITS times aren't a concern or measuring stick in my mind). Mike

Matt, I appreciate the offer. I scattered an LS1 internals all over VIR's bridge straight about 7 years ago in a C5 Vette. They're great motors and I actually have one sitting in my shop right now, ready to go. It has a comp cams roadrace cam, Yellow Terra rockers, a pair of patriot heads, and is making decent power. Just trying to decide the direction to go in. I may take you up on your offer though... Much appreciated. Mike