SSflyer

Just for comparison purposes..... I got my 2001 enginge (less than 10k miles), trans, driveshaft, complete Camaro wiring harness (whole car, not just engine), driveshaft, airbox, steering column, motor mounts, exhaust manifolds, y-pipe, and torque shaft, for $3500. Call All-Mustang in Phoenix and see what they have available. It may be worth having it shipped!

Dark Shadow Gray stripes would look pretty good too. I saw a new Mustang with that combo and it was killer...

Wow! That upper frame is amazing to see. My floors and door frames were way worse though, and after 6 months of cutting and patching it's all good as new. Good luck. My only advise would be to get the shell off the rack and onto jackstands on a level floor BEFORE you cut big pieces out of the unibody. Set the jackstands so the offer they most support possible, even if you have to use 6 or 8 of them. I'd really worry about the body deflecting if you cut on it while it's on the rack. No sense doing a bunch of work and ending up with a tweaked body.

Gave them a call but no luck there either. Any other ideas out there?

I'm rebuilding my 82 280ZX front calipers and need the pins that the brake shoe carrier rides on. I've tried all the local parts houses, dealers (they want $50!) and pretty much all of the internet suppliers. The answer is always that these pins are out of production, but yet they all offer rebuilt units. Anybody know a source that might have these available?

A few years a go I transplanted a throttle body 305 into my S10 Blazer, and believe it or not that little sucker just flew. Yeah, a 350 is a way better choice, but you can probably get a very low mileage 305 with trans for $1300-$1500 bucks, maybe less. My Blazer with it's puny 305 toasted an awful lot of Mustangs...

Geez it's good to see that I'm not the only one with this disease. So far I'm at $17k and I still need air conditioning work, exhaust, wheels & tires, and a few other odds and ends. I guess it's all worthwhile cause at the end I'll have done a complete restoration and have basically a new car. This little sucker better stinking turn some heads when it's done!!

Also double check to make sure the hat heights are the same for both rotors. I bought 2 rotors, both same manufacturer and part number, but the hats are about 1/8" different...

75 280Z -2001 LS1 approx 10k miles -contemplating LS6 heads & cam -T56 & Pro 5.0 -300ZX LSD -280ZXT CVs -MSA Flares & Airdam -Complete Camaro wiring harness & accessories -Camaro instrument cluster -Camaro gas tank -Monsoon stereo -Modern Motorsports coilovers & Tokiko shocks -280ZX discs all around -Zed Findings floors -Triumph Spitfire Vermillion paint -Ordering carpet, seats, weatherstrip, SS bolt kits tomorrow -Homemade mounts Still alot of work to get this on the road. Bodywork is 95% done, suspension mods 60% done, piles of parts in every room of the house. Hope to be on the road in 6 months.

Can you post a picture of the mount you ended up with? It sounds alot like the mount on Jeromios page...

FYI.... The new sale catalog has their $99 gun on sale for $79.

A really sharp wood chisel and about 20 hours worked for me.

On the same subject..... Does anyone make a complete brake line kit for all the hard lines? I've seen individual pieces in the catalogs, but it would cost alot of bucks to order each single part. I've seen kits (approx $120) for just about every old car except a Z...

Mike, Any chance you could post (or email) a pic? I don't have Johns motor mounts and I'd like to see if the headers will fit my set-up... Thanks!

Update.......... Much ado about nothing! A simple v-notch in the brace, a little patch welding, and the problem went away. Fifteen minutes tops. The inner and outer fenders are now braced together, and the new fender liners are next. Pretty time consuming to tie the inner and outer fenders together, but those little dudes are sold as a rock.

Or...... how about silicone sealer and pop rivets?

Wow! The two guys who I hoped would respond both did! I remember from an earlier post what you said about tying both parts back together, so that's still the plan. The fiberglassed panel is intended for cosmetics only, sort of like the fender liners in the front wheelwells, but no matter how I've fit things together, that brace is still in the way. I don't mind spending the time to rework it, but I want to be sure I'm not missing a better answer. Thanks for the advice guys!

I've installed MSA fiberglass flares and have a question about finishing off the rear wheelwells. I removed the outer half of the wheelwells to glue the flares in and am now fitting new sheetmetal from the center seam out to the flare. (The plan is to use Automix to glue this 'finisher' to the inside of the flare and then fiberglass over the joint.) The problem is the brace that goes down from the back of the strut tower and ties into the wheelwell. It sticks down 2-3 inches below the line of the new wheelwell. With a lowered car I'm afraid the brace point might rub the tire. I don't really want to rework the brace itself (LOTS of extra work!), but don't see any other option. Any ideas??

If you're going to the trouble of fixing it, then patch it with metal. I suspect that a fiberglass patch will rattle loose in no time. I did exactly this same patch and it's not as hard as you would think. Use the piece you cut out as a template and cut the new part just a little bigger. Just don't be in a hurry and work it until it fits. If you have a hole in the frame rail you'll absolutely need to have that fixed. You don't want your car folding up...

Yup, for me it was easier to drive it out from the back rather than use a slidehammer. I used a 2lb hammer and a big center punch. Knocked those little dudes right out.

Cool! Thanks!

The only females that thing would catch are the kind that have just done a 20 year stretch in a Calcutta prison.

Haven't seen any posts on this topic for awhile. The last news I saw a couple months ago was that JTR was developing a set, but there's nothing on their website yet. Anybody heard anything recently?

I talked to Redi-Strip too when I was contemplating an acid dip. The one thing that turned me off was that unlike some other out of state strippers, Redi-Strip doesn't dip the entire body into neutralizer. They spray it on with what amounts to a pump-up bug sprayer. I don't see how that could possible get into every corner. Places like the tube frame along the top of the engine compartment and the spaces beneath the rear windows would never get neutralized. I've heard of a nutshell stripper in Mesa that is supposedly price comparable to the acid dip, and there's absolutely no fear of problems later. Myself, i used the old fashioned elbow grease method on the outer body, and sandblasted the underside, door jambs, etc. You might want to do a google search on acid dipping and look at some of the 'after' pictures. If they are representative of the results, you won't be getting back a shiny clean unibody. Don't mean to sound so negative, but after hours of searching and reading, a unibody seems like a poor dipping candidate...

If it doesn't have a ton of miles on it, then it's a really good deal. Does it have all the accessories, alternator, compressor, etc?