SSflyer

Maybe I should correct myself since I've never used the Miller or Lincoln 110v machines. I'd expect anything made by the two companies (and probably Hobart) to be useful. The 110v units I've used were of unknown ancestry, most likely from overseas, and they were pathetic. The voltage & wire adjustments did pretty much nothing, and worst was the wire feed was jerky. I used a MM135 and CP200s for years and never had a problem.

I used a c-clamp. You'll find there's a sweet spot where it's clamped tight enough to reform the threads but not so tight it's too hard to turn. If you use a regular stub nut, you may want to also cut off the land at the top of the nut to give yourself a little more room.

I cleaned up the threads on one of my axles by cutting an extra nut in half with a Dremel tool, clamping it back together over the good threads, and unscrewing it all the way to the end of the stub axle. Make sense? The threads came out perfect. Just make sure the threads in the nut you're using aren't monked up too.

You da man! Thanks for the info. I'll call him tomorrow!

My advice would be to NOT buy one of those 110v MIGs everybody seems to be selling. Get a 220v or nothing. I sold welders for years, and the Millermatic is about the best out there for cost and versatility.

Just Friday I looked at those again, but it's fairly certain they won't fit my set-up. I made my own mounts ala Jeromio, and the K-member brace is directly where the passenger side header dumps. I need a set with a rear exit. I know some guys have welded an extension to the stock manifold and I'll do that if necessary, but I'm not too keen on that solution. The third option would be to attempt to make my own...

Did a search earlier, and it looks like the consensus opinion that the correct u-joint flange for an 88 R200 LSD was a Spicer p/n 2-2-1819. It looks like this part, and the closest alternate 2-2-1899, were both obsoleted a while ago. Did anyone ever find a replacement/2nd source for this flange, or does anyone know where there's stock? My driveshaft has been at the shop for 3 weeks and the only result so far is a bunch of head scratching.

Little bastages looked soooo good in the picture. The fit worse than the LS6 manifolds. Now looking at the Hooker 2077HKR shorties, They are supposedly a drop in replacement for the stock LS1 manifolds. I'm thinking that their advantage is that they're not cast iron, so the flange cut, re-place, re-weld process might be easier. Anyone with experience on these, or do I have to add to my collection of usless exhaust devices?

Probably the first question to ask yourself is how much money (and time) do you want to put into your project. Believe me, if you plan to spend $3k, you'll end up spending $9k. I've got a 75 that's about 70% complete, and I expected to spend no more than $10k to have a nice driver. Not special, just nice. I just broke $21k and there's still a few things needed. If you have an unlimited budget, lots of time, and a good selection of tools, do an LS1 transplant. If you're more sensible than some of us, then go with the LT1 or even an old TPI or TBI. These cars are so light that you'll get all the performance you need, and you'll still get the head turning that comes with a V8 Z-car. Beware of the 'One more thing" syndrome.

My 99 Camaro dynoed 365rwhp and the last trip from Phoenix to San Diego averaged 33mpg. The best leg was 36.6mpg. I've got the same engine set up going into the Z, so with the weight reduction (but higher gearing) I hope to get the same.

-Pedal Assembly -Reflash computer for stick shift -Speedo -Rewire neutral safety switch to clutch pedal -Rewire backup light switch -Maybe fab new trans mount -Rework console -Cut hole for shifter & install shift boot -Install clutch M/C -Maybe rework cruise control wiring

A set of LS6 Corvette manifolds came with the engine I bought, but they hit the steering shaft big time....

No one?? Well, I bought a set off EBAY, so when they get here I'll post up with a result...

Has anyone tried the new GTO manifolds for fitment? The stock Camaro LS1 passenger side manifold flange is triangular and has one side that hits the frame by about an inch, but from the pictures the new GTO manifold flange is only a 2-bolt type and it also exits lower and a bit farther foreward. If they fit, that solves the cut and reweld the flange problem, and they would certainly look better than a rewelded unit...

Man, that's a beautiful exhaust! Are you running cat-less?

Came across this in an EBAY store. Anyone seen this before? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7983801791&category=50454

Ace Hardware has a huge supply of metric hardware, and a pretty good selection of metric grade 8 hardware. If you have one sample they can probably match it...

Good question! I just spent the last hour on the web searching for almost the same part. I saw a picture of a members car where the front brake line went through the inner fender with a 90 degree bulkhead 3/16" flare fitting and I've been looking for them ever since. There's a part that's close in the Jegs catalog (a Russell part), but they want $17 ea for them. Any good source for this stuff will be appreciated!

Another difference with the 2000+ model years is larger capacity fuel injectors.

EBAY. They're on EBAY all the time for alot less than a hundred bucks. I got a pair for $39....

I wonder if a stained glass bandsaw would work. It uses a diamond blade and is water lubricated. I have an extra vent window and a saw at home, so if anyone can tell me if the vent windows are the same glass and construction as the windshield, I'll give it a go and report the results.

Off topic question.... How did you mount the flares onto your car? Did you use an adhesive like AutoMix?

AutoZone has the gaskets, if you want to get one. I just got one from them last month...

Check on EBAY. They're listed on there all the time. I just got a vent window for $10, and there's fronts on there for anywhere from $20-$40 a piece. There was a whole hatch about a week ago for $15.

The factory trims are held on by staples that go through the metal backing of the trim piece and the metal backing plate on the door panel. Are these installed with an air tool, or is there some other trick to putting a staple through two metal sheets at the same time?