Jump to content
HybridZ

SSflyer

Members
  • Posts

    296
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by SSflyer

  1. Spent a week of tearing apart the wiring harness and I finally figured out there was a bad ignition relay ground. Got that fixed and it started in about 1 second. After three years of reading about all the other LS1's hitting the road I finally got to hear one run. Geez what a rush! Maybe another couple weeks finishing details and I'll get to drive one too!
  2. Great info! Thanks! There's a couple things in there I haven't looked at.
  3. Still need some help.... I've gone thru the service manual 'Cranks but won't start' troubleshooting page and still have the problem. I've checked all the cam and crank sensor wires for continuity and shorts to ground and they check out as good. I've replaced the crank sensor and the engine coolant sensor. All the PCM grounds check out good. The other grounds are all in place. I have a fuel enable signal from the BCM. All the fuses are good. I pulled the MAF connector to run on stored code and that made no difference. I tried the PCM from this car in my Camaro and it fired right up, so I know the PCM is good. The key issue is that there's still no rpm signal from the crank sensor. Is there a way to test the crank sensor with a meter since I don't have access to a dealer scan tool? I'd like to know for sure I didn't get a defective one from the auto parts store. What am I missing???
  4. The service manual says the same thing about the crank sensor. It also says that any problems with the crank sensor and cam sensor won't throw a code, which is exactly what's happening here. I'm sure I plugged it in, but maybe there's a broken wire or something. I plan to do a continuity check on the wires for both sensors tonight.
  5. Yup, coilpacks are plugged in. We checked all the sensors, fuses, relays, and they're all plugged in, fusing, and relaying. The steering column actually fits good. It required shortening the shaft in the Camaro column, and welding on the steering knuckle from the Datsun Column. Inside the car, the column had to be spaced down by about 3/4 inch so all the connectors and lock mechanisms would clear the column mount. The neat part is that all the column controls work. I used the Camaro wiper motor (basically a bolt in and functional intermittant wipers!), the Camaro fog lights, and horns. The dashboard is still out of the car, but when it's all togethe I'll send a picture.
  6. ....and no cigar. Tried to start it up for the first time yesterday. Engine turns over, has good fuel pressure to the fuel rails, but no spark and no fuel from the injectors. Car has the stock PCM (reflashed from auto to 6-spd), stock body control module, stock Camaro wiring harness (with some modifications to shorten or lengthen wires), Camaro steering column with chip reader and matching key. When the computer was reflashed I had them disable the VATS and some other minor stuff. Our first guess is that no spark and injectors sounds like a VATS issue, but it shouldn't be. I thought I'd ask for help here before I spend hours and hours in the service manual. Maybe this problem will be familiar to someone...
  7. See if the seller has any service records for oil changes and such. I'd also look for weepy gaskets, permatex residue, rounded off bolt tops, and maybe for oil coating in the intake. How many miles does the engine have on it?
  8. Just bought one yesterday. I'd expect any AutoZone or Checker would have them. If you can't find one, let me know and I'll send one. One other question... Am I correct in assuming the 3/4" port on the waterpump is the 'out' side and the 5/8" is the return? Am I also correct that the inlet should go to the water valve side on the heater core? Neither service manual has flow diagrams for the heaters.
  9. How about unblemished chrome taillight trims?
  10. I put a 305 into my S10 Blazer, and it surprised more than a few Mustangs. In a Zcar it would do just fine. I wonder what could be done to the 4.3 to gain some hp. Less weight, same power.... hmmmmm. Is there a supercharger available for a 4.3?
  11. Need some help on how to adjust the parking brake cables. I did the 280ZX rear brake upgrade on my 280, but I can't get the parking brake to work. It looks like the e-brake arm on the caliper runs out of play before the pads hit the rotor. The brake holds a little, but not enough to do any real good. I saw a post a while ago where someone said they worked the e-brake lever about 50 times to make the thing function correctly, but the ZX service guide says nothing about that. What's the secret?
  12. If you'd consider a non-stock looking hood, contact 280Zone. He makes a great hood that has a Camaro SS style scoop....
  13. Geez, is there any part you don't have???? A body could ask for the retainer pin for the front left muffler bearing and you'd have at least one. I can't find parts I know are in the garage, and you seem to be able to lay your hands on any part related to a Z car. Amazing.
  14. You really need to know if it was an auto or 6spd. The PCM harness will be different for each type. Also, see if all the throttle controls are there. Some of that stuff that seems so small can be very expensive to buy piecemeal. Check for an A/C compressor, alternator, smog fittings/hardware etc. As a reference, I got an LS1 with 8k miles from an F-body with the trans, steering column, drive shaft, gas tank, complete car wiring harness, air box, and a bunch of other crap I didn't need, all for $3500. I agree with the post above that you're way better off getting a matched motor and trans with all the accessories and wiring. AND, if you really want a 6spd, get one. Don't mess with switching from an automatic to a manual trans, no matter how good the deal is. That swap will cost you some bucks for clutch parts, and cost you mega hours of rewiring. Ask me how I know...
  15. Yup, those are the stock plastic inner fender pieces. I took the fenders off just to protect the new paint. The pics are on the F-150 forum because that gallery was alredy set up. (I'm lazy.)
  16. Rusty 280Z from Tulsa..... $800 Complete from the ground up rebuild......$30k Getting to tell a buddy about the post above this one..... Priceless!!! My 77Z.... Yes they are Cobra R rims. The rears are 17x9.5 and the fronts are 17x8.5. I don't remember the offset (will have to check the paperwork at home), but they were not a special order or anything. They did require 1" adapter/spacers because the bolt pattern is different than the Datsun.
  17. I wish I could claim all the other cars in that gallery, but they all belong or belonged to a buddy of mine. The blue Lightning ran a 12.02, which is stinking fast for a 5000lb truck. He likes to change cars alot!
  18. Here's my addition to the LS1 Z family. We hauled the car over to Belangers exhaust in North Phoenix yesterday for a complete system. One week there and then maybe some LS1 noise in my garage... http://www.f150online.com/galleries/albumview.cfm?num=3690
  19. SSflyer

    T56 Rebuild

    Great links! I suspect that rebuilding a trans falls into the same 'you can never do that' category as building your own hybrid z car. Well, I did the first, so maybe this can be done too. Thanks for the link to the manual, I'll download that first, since reading is free....
  20. SSflyer

    T56 Rebuild

    My trans started locking in 4th gear and after seeing the cost of rebuilt units I'm thinking about doing it myself. There's a complete parts kit on EBAY for about 1/4 the cost of a rebuilt, but before I spend the dough I would like to know if this is something a reasonable mechanic can do at home? Anyone here ever had any experience?
  21. Do it! Suggest to him that he become a member of this site. I'll bet he could do a bunch of business here if he is willing to be available to answer questions. If he could put together some basic 'here's what you need for an LS1 system' order pages (like JTR has for other stuff) he'll make a bunch of friends here.
  22. Let's just say that it helped to mill the bracket. I also notched the frame rail in about an inch and a half on a 45 degree angle and now the compressor fits fine. ps. I feel like I owe you a huge debt of gratitiude. I've developed the habit of printing any post about LS1 conversions that have answers to problems I know I'm going to face, and as I was reading through them yesterday looking for this belt info, most of the really usefull stuff was in your posts. You're like one of the pioneers of this LS1 hybrid stuff and your work has saved me (and probably alot of others) countless hours and lotsa bucks. So, thanks.
  23. There was a post about a year ago that contained the part number for the belt on an LS1 A/C system that had the compressor mounting bracket milled down. I've searched but can't find it. Does anyone have the number handy?
  24. Amen brother! I'm at the same place, and it seems I'm always missing one bolt or screw, or finding one more piece that needs to be refurbed or replaced. AND it seems like everything tries to scratch the new paint!
×
×
  • Create New...