stony

1 fastz I have a 9 inch for sale with 35 spline moser axles... you could get 15 (also for sale) inch tires under the car with this rear end ;> if you still have no cage this may be a good option for you. launch on the bottle draggin the bumper ;> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=602141573&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1013660273&indexURL=0&rd=1 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=602142536&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=1013660982&indexURL=0&rd=1

scottie. the last run i did top end in 3rd heard a slight knock....af ratio was lean and the injectors read 112% on the sds screen. this tells me they are not giving me enough fuel lean rich knob or not I agree the 550cc inj would have worked well but with the plans i have teh 680s are closer to what i want to end up with. I went with 680cc injectors cause i got a great deal on them, 280 bucks . i wanted 720s for future turbine upgrade but these should work fine. i always felt a little overkill on the fuel system cant hurt. you should know remember Mark he was running 720cc inj on that ca 18 (1800cc 4 banger) he had this may be hard to believe for alot of guys but by upgradeing the turbine wheels to super 60s , a 272 cam, and the 680 injectors and turning the booste up 1.2K the rb26 will be well into the upper 500hp range ( i hope) Ive seen others in this reange with teh same mods ;>

HMMMM... I dont know how they are getting those prices but i was there fro 6 years up till a year ago. and i dont think prices could have come down that far that quick....most engines come from the mainland okinawa dosnt have enough crashed cars to get good prices on anything good. this is all my opinion. If you ask me the only way these prices are possible is if they went over there and bought 2 or 3 truckloads of stuff and shipped everything back. otherwise they take orders then get the stuff shipped. adn from expeience the smallest crate you can ship is 1x1 cubic meter. and it costs close to 1000 bucks to the west coast. so im thinking you could prabably tack that on tho all there prices at least. If im wrong and they have all this stuff readily available then go for thats an ausome price for teh rb-26. as long as teh tranny it comes with is not the gtr tranny. gtr tranny pretty much useless for an kind of swap unless you plan on hacking up alot of stuff and going 4wd. Just kind to good to be true if you ask me

i will be pushing 600 rwhp with the 680cc inj and turbo upgrade

hmm not sure what your saying.... im running the stock 444cc injectors in the rb26... and getting 400+ rwhp. injector duty cycle is maxed and very lean on the top end...680cc injectors will do very nice and should get me in an range for fuel and aloow me to run more booste ;>

hmmmm never thought about but that should be doable. dont know why it couldnt be made maybe a call to a spool maker with a few quetions would pay off.

I was wondering.... right now the rb-26 alternator has an internal regulator and it is wired into the harness the same way the old stock L motor alternator was. which has a external reg (i think???) my question is where would i wire the alternator in so i can remove the portion of the wire harness that has the external regualtor in it ? I plan on cleaning up the engine bay harness soon... getting rid of all teh unused portions of the harness ie coil, a/c ect ect . i have a pretty good schemematic of the system so i should be able to figure it out. I just thought i'd throw this out there so maybe someone that has done it could make it easier ;> stony

this is virtually impossible to do with dash in but when i had mine out for paint i drilled a hole and attached the autometer bracket to a piece of metal in the dash and it worked great. i can still get the gage in and out with the dash in it was the inital drilling i couldnt do with the dash in.

ron the body shop told me that the easiest and cheapest way to get the glass out is to cut out the rubber then pull the glass out of the rubber and replace the seal. worked like a charm and still have original glass ;> piano wire works best with glass that is sealed down as teh newer cars are.... good luck

Autopower is supposed to of have a car they built there cages to but not sure. i think the guy at art morrison refferred me to them. havent bought anything yet so cant say but they are a nother source for cages, A bit expensive though. it was either AM or chassis engineering who refered me

I wish sds would come up wiotha datalogging option thanks for all the info makes good sense. Ive decided against then ine inch conversion ;< too much money and time that i dont have. Just gonna do the cv swap and shoot for mid tens and try not to break anything ;>

Im running 444c stock gtr injectors.. im using SDS and the rpm curve seems to be very good. it was setup by someone who had tuned many rb-26s in other cars with close to the same setup as mine. i know the booste side will have to be tweaked again my question is can i use some kind of formula to figure the changes needed to the rpm curve once the 680cc injectors go in. or is it just gonna be a wing it and redo it in the manner the SDS site says to set it up. I dont know how many of you have setup SDS before from scratch but doing it on the road in a 400+hp Z is hairy to say the least ;> especially the hi rpm map settings

that guys lives in japan. he used to have a websight with pics of a radical N/A (spagetti) header

if you cant get the z-31 mounts and your gonna make your own i would recommend setting the engine as far back as possible. this will also need a custom driveshaft. the dollar amounts i was talking was US $ sounds like you guys in austrailia get stuff for about the same price as those in japan.

I was thinking..... 2850 dose that sound right i thought the Zs were lighter then that... What does your Z weigh.

if its an open diff they will spin in opposite direction. LSD will spin in the same direction... you can tell how strong an LSD it is buy holding one side while spinning the other side and see how hard it is to break it free.

i would like to see a set of pipes where they are built into the rocker panels.... the car would look the same on the outside except for the exhaust holes right in front of the wheels. any thoughts? can you say hot feet

Well i loooked at the pics closer and you can see how fwd the motor is... the radiator is in front of the core support!!!!!!. He must have installed the complete front gtr drivtrain. I guess if your interested in draggin and crusin being that far fwd dosnt matter that much. That is wicked

WOW i wonder how they did the front drivetrain. Can you tell if they used the gtr setup or something costom made

want2bz.... this is coming from me... used to live in japan. the gtr bone stock is real close to that HP limit. but all it takes is aftermarket airfilter, exhaust and a computer tune and its up above 350. i think thats what your talking about. I cant remember the formula but the japanese rating of PS is very pretty much the same as hp. for every 100PS there is a difference of maybe 3 HP if i remember correctly. My Motor is bone stock with the addition of the above and an intercooler and SDS, and the injectors are maxed out half way thru 3rd gear. these engines actually require at least a 550cc injector running stock booste!!!!! Nissan detuned the hell out of these engines. Anyways im ramblin l8rz stony

me too ;>

M if the all injection pumps are the same there should be a check valve that keeps pressure in the system for a while. at least this is true with a 89 rx-7 turbo. my 7 would do the same thing your descibing. the book also says injectors may be leaking. and that couple of seconds it take to start the first time is because of the rich condition in the manifold for the first couple of cranks... just guessing here i never did change anything and it never ever gave me any other problems besides needing a couple of cranks in the morning

not sure where it is but there is a flow formula out there that can determine maz flow and HP of a particular size fuel tubing according to fuel pressure

i agree with ppraska.... i think getting rid of the 1/4 window would make the z body lok funny... unless there was a cool looking functional scoop. my 2 cents stony

Ross with the CV swap what kind of hp numbers can the setup with stand.... im looking at 600+hp in the future and dont want anything in the driveline to break because its not strong enough. I allready have a ford 9 inch with 35 spline Moser axles (strong!!!!) swap but i was curiuos what that setup is good for. looking for a strange nodular center section with hi 4 or low 5 gearing. thanks stony