stony

add turbo and exhaust and all the other associated 900hp things and your set ;>can you build a 900hp v-8 for 5000.00 ???? [ November 06, 2001: Message edited by: stony ]

[ November 06, 2001: Message edited by: stony ]

if your running a stock turbo at stock booste a stock blowoff will work but start upgrading and you need a bigger blowoff. you can route any blowoff backinto the piping its quite and some people even say it keeps the turbo spooling. not sure if i agree but oh well. id go with the gready type R bowoff. best on on the market its rebuildable and you can swap out springs and it also has an adjustment screw .

i wanna see i wanna see!!!!!!!!!! email if necessary ;>

yep and that was the ca-18 not sr-20 ;> 1800cc motor putting out that much is cool... ive seen a 240 with a rb-26 jammed in it and it was modified 2.6 with putting like 500 to the tires. the thing just tore up nittos 555Rs the. the engine compartment is kinda small and i would recommend an engine that is similar in length to teh stock motor. i like the gn motor for the 240sx as it would stay behind the strut mounts . anything longer and you get crapy weight distribution. my 2 cents stony

when he says stock mount i think hes talking about the rubber part down... the stock rb mounts will not work and the stock l engine mount wont fit the rb block ... you need a set of rb-20 z-31 engine mounts.. from japan.. then the motor will bolt right in. and if you use the r-33 5 speed, its front portion of teh driveshaft everything bolt right in. im sure this works... its how i got my rb-26 in my z. it set the motor so teh oil pan is just below teh engine member. not sure if you wanna go any lower then that. the 20 and 25 has intake manifolds that run over the top of the cams and will prabably touch the hood ;< good luck on your swap

if you can get your hands on a set of z-31 rb-20 mounts from japan any rb motor will bolt right in . add a r-33 gtst 5 spd and front half of teh drive shaft and all you have to do is make tranny mounts everything else is boltin.... the toy engine will be all custom made stuff.

the 13 bt is pretty heavy. it has 3 slabs that are pretty much solid cast iron with ports in them and a big hole in the center for the shaft. the rotor housings are aluminum. all together a big guy could pick up the block by himself. but bolt on all the stuff and you need 2-3 guys to move it around. the advantage to a rotary is its size. in a z you could set that baby so far back its not even funny. you could prabably sit in the engine compartment with the engine installed ;> i want to say the entire block is maybe 18-20 inches long 24 inches max. that would actually put it completly behind the stock engine member ;> You could fit the radiator, intercooler and alot of other stuff inside the engine compartment. would be too cool ;Z>

Scottie Ausome!!!! im thinking if you tie together the 2 welded areas with a tube. then run a tube down from the cage to the front of the braces should give you all the strength you need. Maybe start a new topic on this question but does anyone have any opinions on a 4 link setup with rods then are shorter then 18 inches? im being told this is bad.. or will it just be harder to setup ?

ill email the mpeg to anyone that wants it 1.2 meg

i have the mpeg somewhere on my computer. ive seen it but i dont think it its an irs i think you can even see the pumpkin.... yes i think its a solid axle.... the rear wheels dont camber like a irs does when it squats off the line. even if you could get the irs to lift the wheels i would think over time it would be cheaper to do a solid axle. the diff and axle can not handle the jolt that would lift the tires. my 2 cents stony

Im pretty sure there isnt a stock IRS in any car out there that could withstand the impact of a wheel lift launch.

hmmm collapsing on itself????? did he have it vented the right way? if not the fuel pump will create enough vaccum to do that ;< try ebay search for "fuel cell" every once and a while a good deal comes up

i wrap mine real tight in fiberglass tape then use a dremel with either the stone cutting wheel or carbon wheel... works great. you'll have to clean out the inside of the hose with something after though. i also leave the tape on the cut ends this prevents frays in teh future

Hi, Rb-20??? will be 2000 bucks and will be around 180 hp. for the money id go with a gn-z like scottie is running. Im running an rb-26 but i did my swap in japan.... the engine in the states is 6000 + alone. youd have a bad ass v-8 or gn motor for that much. I plan on living in japan after leaving alaska so thats why i did the swap. a z car with rb-26 swap dont sell for 25000-35000 depending on the quality of teh swap!!! my 2 cents stony

Hi yall!!!! 260z 1974 engine RB-26DETT, trust gtr FMIC, SDS engine management, skyline GTS-t 5 speed tranny, r-200 LSD, coilovers, koni struts. chromoly tubular control arms, kakimoto 90MM exhaust. couple of the normal gages. wheels are Watanabes ...front 15x8, rear 15x10 with BFG drag radials. future. getting ready to rip out the rear suspension and tub and rollbar the car. 4 link with ford nine inch or maybe a 12 bolt just depends on what i find the best deal on when i m ready ;> current best time with the surrent setup 11.138 @ 121mph. with lots of tire spin and the motor still setup in bone stock trim ;>

Hey 1fstz where do you order/buy M&H tires? i burned a set almost to threads i liked then so much but cant find where to buy another set... they were 275 50 15 racemasters. they were really soft and hooked really good. I aquired them when i bought my wheels ;> thanks clint OBTW your crazy!!!!! 9 seconds with no cage !!!!! one of these days you wont be able to open your door after a run ;> can you say pretzel :>

hmm like that idea about the chassis cradle hows this sound. Im thinking before cutting out the rear....just replace the rear frame members with rectangular tubing.I would do this by first removing the stock frame then notch the sheet metal for the new 2x3 frame rails. weld it in...connecting that to the front frame. Then start cutting out sheetmetal in the rear of the car to fit the different components of the 4 link nine inch. Instead of the frame curving around the spare tire well they would connect to the front frame then come back up and over the rear end and weld into the back of the car. then all id have to do is cut out strut housing and enlarge the wheel tubs. i dont think the rear floor needs to be any higher then it allready is to fit the solid axle. I dont plan on putting hugh tires on but do want to get a 10-11 inch wheel completely under the car. does this sound feasible or should it all be cut out and replaced with sheetmetal? opinions?

id like to see pics of the mod. id like to see any other rol bar installs too thanks just email them to me ;>

ahhhhh i want pictures toooo!!!!! PLEASE!!!!!

anyone know if teh spare tire well provides any chassis strength??? if it does how do i need to beef it up to install a fuel cell?

i had a 13bt in my 89 FC and had it at 350 rwhp with a 60-1 turbo. remapped computer, FMIC and a couple of additional injectors. it lived for a long time in fact i never killed it i sold the car. this motor was a pro rebuild and ran very good. you can hear a wav of it on my home page. as for swapping it into a Z. If you want good power and realiability id go with a 20b turbo. they make much better power and can easily put out 500+ hp and be relatively reliable. there is another post on here somewhere about this same subject.

hey guys.... you you can get a hold of z-31 rb-20 engine mounts this will allow you to bolt any RB block in a Z. use and r-33 gtst 5 speed the front drive shaft and convert to a r-200 diff and the only fabing youll have to do is make tranny mounts!!!!! now put an engine management system,,,an intercooler ,,, fuel pump and youve got a car with a bone stock motor that will run low 11s hi tens with out even turbing booste up !!!! this is what i did to my car :> check out my web sight for more info laterz stony

hmm maybe your having the same problem i had ... pull both driveshafts and see if you can see though it to the other side. if you cant you may have to remove the little aluminum plug thats inside. i had to.... once i did that the shaft slid right in and locked in place!!!!depending on what car the diff came out of depends on if it has spacer in it or not. i bought 13 lsd diffs once and about half of them had teh spacers in them

OK guys!!!!! im hearing alot of guys saying the z IRS r-200 setup good for low to mid 10s. anyone ever tried to just narrow the z setup ie shorten arms and shafts and move the struts in??? kinda like what scottie is doing with the vette rearend. i was kinda thinking it wasnt worth the effort (strength wise) thats why i was going with the solid axle. but woulod becheaper then a full back half.