stony

well thanks to the 2000 dollar paint job that turned into a 6500 full body/frame restore im into the 20k range im sure i bought the car in japan fro 2500 i bought my entire drivetrain intercooler to r-200LSD in japan for 4500. sds 1300, wheels 500, tires bfg DR 200.(EBAY) chromoly lower control arms 1200, coilover conversion 200, shocks 240, springs 360, aluminum radiator 350, custom exhaust and intercooler pipe welding labor and parts (includes kakimoto exhaust that was motified and rb-26 downpipe)1500, fuel pump 80.00, steel braided line 200.00, misc gages 600.00 ( tach, egt, afr x2, booste) hmmm well thats over 20 k there and my interior is still bare. i still need seats , i have a ford nine inch to install and full rollcage to buy and all the other goodies to go with that. im gonna buy a welder to save on some labor there and do as much as i can in my garage. maybe someday it will be done and hopefully still be married the car has run 11.138 @ 121 mph with lots of wheelspin in first and second. I believe its is capable of a hi 10 sec pass with a few adjustments but ill never know the next time it hits the track again will be with the nine inch installed and a full cage, bigger injectors and a little more booste. take away that damn paint job and that a pretty fast car for under 15 K and on top of that all the parts are stock parts from other cars ;> which makes it very reliable. i dont plan on doing any engine or tranny work till back in japan....thats when the fun begins ;>

ron, youve got mail;> hey did you have to enlarge the wheel/fender opening to fit those tires?

YES no axles. id also like to know how much wider it is once axle and brakes are added. Can you email me some pics of the wheels? thanks stony

Ron, what size were your old rear wheels? you wouldnt happen to know the rear axle length flange to flange on your car do ya? i bought a nine inch narrowed to 34 inches flange to flange and im thinking after i did the math its gonna be too narrow ;< even with 15 inch wheels with wicked offsets. do you know how much the axles and brakes assemblies will add to the size? your cars stance is exactly what i want for mine. are you gonna sell your wheels? thanks stony

anybody know what the max negative offset are available in 15x15 wheels? (weld, and/or centerline)

well i bought a nine inch!!!! but i think i screwed up i should have done the math before.... it is 34 inches flange to flange. i just measured mine and it is 54 inches drum to drum face. anybody know how much more is added when adding brakes???? i hope it is 2+ inches per side or ill be selling something on ebay if my math is correct with my current wheels im sitting at 67 inches tire bulge to tire bulge. i wanna lose atleast 3 inches per side to get the tire more under the car. so that brings it down to 60 inches + or - . I have a feeling im looking at some wheel spacers and some wicked offsets to get the tires where i want them. any opinions???

oh well no mopar rear fro me ;< did get my hands on a nine inch narrowed to 34 inches flange to flange with moser 35 slpine axles fro 350 bucks ... no center section though. still a pretty good deal ;>

no dyno nymbers yet it ran 11.1 at 121mph with lots of wheelspin in first and second. i have a aftermarket trust intercooler, and sds, other then that its bone stock , stock booste and everything ;>

oh well didnt win the mopar rearend got too high for me.....did win a ford 9 inch narrowed to 34 inches with moser 35 spline axles complete with retainers and bearings.. all i need is a brake setup and a spool ;>

hmmm gtr tail lights are exactly the same as gtst taillights... i could have gotten tons of them in japan for 50-70 bucks each :>

ouch!!! quoting 550 (includes shipping to alaska) for a 39 inch drum to drum 8 3/4 rear end minus the differential!!! Im thinking i could get one from a junk yard and have it narrowed to exactly what i need for less then that? are the mopar axle 8 3/4 tapered or non tapered? can i just cut and respline a set or would i need special axles made for the 8 3/4 rear end?

thats the plan. It eill require bigger wheel tubs but well see. i havent met the reserve yet and its getting kinda high for me now soprabably wont ;<

its a 3.23 which of course is no good for me ill be changing that out with something higher like a 4.11 or something like that

ok hes telling me its 39 inches drum to drum that is almost perfect ;> should be able to get some big meats under the fenders without too much cutting. i think the ss bar setup MIKEKZ is using on his green and black z is gonna work good ;>

So as far as rear ends go it wouldnt be any different then insalling a 9 inch or 12 bolt as far as mounting hardware and bracketry?<<

found one on ebay. My question is a rear end is a rear end when it comes to replaceing the IRS? IS the mopar rear end any good? its the 8 3/4 5 on 4.5 lug drum setup with posi. would i just measure it up and weld on the mounts? or would there be anything special because its a mopar. thanks shipping will prabably nix the deal but cant hurt to get all the info i can get ;>

sounds good thanks for all the info if you get a chance to scan them id appreciate it ;> thanks

You probably could but a complete custom steering a front suspension would need to be made. I cringe at the amount of work that would be not to mention money if I had my own shop and lots of my own tools I might try otherwise that project would be rich mans project. ;< the diff for the front wheels sits almost directly under the middle of the engine which means the engine would be way fwd in the bay maybe even require cutting the core support to get it to fit. i personally don't think using the gtr crossmember would be feasible in a z My 2 cents

oh yea what size wheels/tires are you running in back

so unlike a 4 link that will cut down on leg room this kit you didnt have have to remove anything from behind the seat? If yes looks like i cured my problem with cutting out the entire rear floor for 4 link setup ;> Anybody else have experience with this setup? I called jegs and they still sell the kit but its a special order ... do you have the part numbers for all the other stuff needed. I sure they can hook me up but might be a tad easier if i have the part number handy?

OK thanks for the info..... got any more pics of the underside of the car? i see the lower bars but what braces the top of the housing? the panhard bar braces side to side but what keeps the housing from rotating fwd on the top? again thanks for the info

Im researching all types of solid rear axle installs and this one looks totally different. I cant remember where i got them but i have them ;>i thought it was mike kelly but i guess not. very interested in the parts list and install method thanks stony

dude i would have never did this swap if i was in the states. the motor alone cost more in the states then the entire drivetrain (engine ti diff with intercooler and EMS) did in japan. but id you must heres the list of parts you need. its mostly bolt in except teh tranny mounts rb-26, flywheel and clutch r-33 gtst tranny with the stock front half of teh drive shaft, r-200 diff Z-31 (JAPAN SPEC) rb-20 motor mounts. youll have to mod the tank with a -8 or bigger pickup. fuel pump (FI) EMS (SDS) youll need a custom down pipe. i modified an aftermarket gtr pipe. youll also need a custom exhaust. from there all teh basic engine swap stuff. i would recommend shopping around on ebay. if i had to do it all over id go with a gnz setup lots of turnkey hi HP motors on teh net out there for about teh same price as a stock rb-26. may require some more extensive modding to get it in there but ..... my 2 cents

for some reason i delelted the forst post this was an engine on japanese yahoo auction ... sold for 5000.00 long block only ;<

Ok now cut and paste that into my car oh yes it dosnt work that way