[my 550$ 280zx na to turbo adventure]

Nice build! Glad to see another local S130 Turbo!

[old member... can't post anymore?]

So I haven't logged in for a while, now I can't post in the main forums. I imagine there's some "hoop" to jump through every so often? =)

[Turbo size... Does it matter?]

I think it goes on this motor.... (such a small flywheel!)

 

[280zx missing at 1/3 throttle]

DO YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT PIN is that ECU ground im not supposed to BODY GROUND

 

Sorry... Pin 28 & 36 are gounds & pin 27 & 35 are switched +12v power. I was thinking of a diff connector when I said one ground needs to stay separate. Here's a pic of my new ecu connector.

[1981 280zx engine swap help]

Before this thread hits the tool shed...

 

SEARCH! There's only about 4.2 billion threads about turbo swaps, probably some stickies too.

 

Changes? Yep... wiring, exhaust, some hoses, etc.

[timing problem, cant get engine to run right]

I didn't know "dark" was a color.

[Timing mark not lining up]

I turned the crank and lined up the timing mark on the pulley to "0" on the indicator plate and the rotor was pointin the 180 deg position.

 

If the rotor is 180 off, couldn't you just rotate the crank through another cycle and then the rotor will be dead on? If the car runs okay, it's not 180* off.

[timing problem, cant get engine to run right]

i am getting a cloud of smoke.

 

What COLOR is the smoke?

Why did you adjust the timing down if it was running great?

Have you checked the spark plugs (gap & tip color)?

Have you checked the fuel pressure?

Have you checked the a/f ratio?

Have you tried advancing the timing back to 34*?

Have you checked ALL sensors and connections?

 

These are all basic things to check... all of which can be found in your Haynes manual or FSM.

[280zx missing at 1/3 throttle]

^^^ So even after the Z31 ecu swap you have the same prob? Have you run the diagnostic codes?

 

Most of my issues went away when I did my Z31T ecu swap, except for crappy idle & random misses. Running the diagnostic codes helped. I was actually getting random sensor codes. After racking my brain I finally found that the culprit was the bottom ground wires on the lowest ecu plug. They were very loose in the plug itself, and the massive ground collector joint about 4 inches in was really half assed by Nissan. Those grounds control all the major sensors. I cut out and replaced that entire plug w/ one from an 89 Z31, then made my own ground connections. If you do this, pay attention to the wiring schematics, because one ground cannot be grounded to the body as the ecu controls it directly.

 

Now my Z idles & revs great.

[Air flow meter hissing]

Well... have you taken it out and inspected it? Have you adjusted the idle screw? Have you checked the connection boots to make sure they are tight?

 

 

n-e-e-d--m-o-r-e--i-n-f-o

[S130 big intercooler install problem. help.]

^^^ Not to stereotype, but "Chris Miller" is a pretty "English" name too.

 

That's a "phat" intercooler y0!

[Question on Routing Fuel to Rail]

I assume this is going on an L Series motor? Are you using the stock FPR? Because most of the L28 FPR's just have one IN and one OUT.

[ARP Head bolts for 280zx turbo]

They currently sell brand new on ebay for $119 obo with free shipping, so i'm looking to pay less for it.

 

Post that ebay item... the cheapest I can find is:

 

$119 ($122 Buy It Now) + $10.99 shipping - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Head-Studs-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-202-4206_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem53dc8fb338QQitemZ360182690616QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

$129 w/ free shipping - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-Head-Studs-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-202-4206_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem27aae0f612QQitemZ170370594322QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

[no power and electrical problems]

Dude....

 

So it was running fine before you replaced the injectors?

[no power and electrical problems]

I just replaced the injectors and now there's no power.

 

So it was running fine before you replaced the injectors?

 

now there's no power.

 

Also when I shut the car off everything inside stays on and the fuel pump goes on and off.

 

There's no power, yet there is power?

[Real car or Photoshop?]

well... best looking 2+2 I've seen.

 

You need to get out more....

 

[Front Brake upgrade Spacers for $70]

Just to clarify, this is for the Toyota S12 caliper fit right? If so, I'm in for a set.

[280zxt oil pan]

Sourcing an n/a oil pan & adding in a bung will probably be easier (just in case you can't find a turbo oil pan).

[280zx missing at 1/3 throttle]

Welcome!

 

What did the orig spark plugs look like when you took them out? What did you set the timing to? What do the metal connections to each sensor look like? Any corrosion?

[help me ID this wheel!]

Yeah... that's what I was gunna say....

[ARP Head bolts for 280zx turbo]

Good luck with that. They are expensive for a reason and I wouldn't trust a used set... you don't really know if they are damaged.

[Suggestions? 83 280ZX Turbo Running Rough When Cold]

The air regulator is the main item controlling cold start idle. Have you checked it? Also the 280zx turbo ecu harness connections are known to build up corrosion. I also had a problem w/ the bottom 2 black (ground) wires on the lowest ecu plug. About 4 inches in there is a large ground wire junction that was put together half assed by Nissan. Cut and replace it. Those are the grounds for major sensors.

[N42 intake mod and PCV port]

Position? Meaning location? About 2 inches forward (towards the throttle body).

[Removing Rear Fender on a ZX?]

$20 angle grinder from harbor freight.

 

...

 

Seriously though, I've never done it

 

 

Good advice (note my sarcasm)....

 

 

An angle grinder will only take about a week, and damage the panel. You need to drill out all the spot welds around the flanges. Then use a pneumatic chisel to break the welds loose. On the c-pillar where the quarter panel and roof meet, there is a brazed flange. That you will need to grind loose.

 

It's a nightmare of a job for a first timer.

 

 

[cressida AFM on an NA car]

If you're doing this for "more air", why not do the "turbo AFM guts into n/a AFM" swap?

 

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/sizeupgrade/index.html

 

If you're dying to be original... tear them both apart and compare. I can't imagine any real gains over adjusting the stock one, or converting to the turbo AFM body. And if you're still running everything else stock (especially after the AFM), it's not going to make much difference anyway.