DaleMX

Anything for sale with the word LS1 or LS6 on it seems to make it higher in price. I used Thunders 230 cam package, oil pump, poly mounts, and many other items and have found that their quality and service are second to none. Angie and Jason at Thunder just plain rock! LS1's are great engines, but you pay for what you get. 20 years ago a common place aluminum block 350 chevy pumping out more that 1 hp per cube from the factory would have taken the world by storm! It's light, powerfull, reliable, and very upgradable. What more could a guy want in a 2300 lb Z!

Very Nice.

Fusible link project is in. Here's a quick doc. I'll do more detail later, but this is a U-Fab project so you could figure it out rather easily. http://www.circuitflex.com/Fusible_Link3.html Dale

I bought 2 maxi's. Both had 1 allen head thread that was stripped. I had to steal one from my second one to get 1 complete one. If I had it to do over again I would have checked the action of all the hold downs before I got started and saved myself an hour of fixing. Dale

Ok, I'm done. It was very easy. On a scale of 1 to 10 it was a 2. http://www.circuitflex.com/FusibleLinkPos3.jpg Dale

Here is some tracing work I did last week and posted a little ways down. I'll be doing the conversion to maxifuse tomorrow (I kinda got to cuz the link connections are really bad and drive me crazy!). http://www.circuitflex.com/Fusible_Link2.html Dale

Yes he had wires in place of the links!. Anyway I figured it out. Here's a pic. http://www.circuitflex.com/FusibleLinkPos2.jpg Dale

Looks too big to me (too low and too wide). All of the weight is in the shipping container designed to protect it.

You can pull them out and check them from end to end with an ohm meter for continuity (0 ohms). You can also hear the injectors when they are opening. If someone is starting the car and you press a screwdriver against your ear and hold it on the injector then you should be able to hear it fire. You could also pull the cold start injector out and see if its spraying when you turn the car over just to make sure you have pressure. If that doesnt work you might try a shot or 2 of starting fluid into the cold injector hole and see if it fires. If it does then fuel is the problem. Dale

Revolutions per minute on the Crank.

I believe a 12 mm positive offset and a 4.5" backspacing are the same. Actually it works out to 4.472" backspacing.

I have thought about this on mine. If a 4.5" offset was used and it was a little too close to the suspension then it could be shimmed out a bit for a lot less money than buying new wheels. I would just route myself a set of 1/8" aluminum spacers and try that. I guess if you had to move out like a 1/2" you could replace the wheel studs, but that sounds like too much work. If a 3.5" offset is used and it hits the fender then the only alternative is to modify the fender or get a different wheel.

Thanks for your reply. I have figured out were it all goes and what connections to make by the wiring diagram. Boy they are hard to follow, but if you stare at it long enough you can make sense out of it all. I dont have a shop manual, but I would assume that the wiring is broken down a little better in there. Really what I'm looking for at this point is someone to say "Hey stupid, dont put it on the firewall or X will happen!" Or "What an idiot, just buy the maxifuse conversion kit from So & So company" Thanks, Dale

Well there are 2 fusible links that connect directly to the battery that are not under the the 2 white boxs that control the fuel injection. They come from the positive lead on the battery straight to a plug with 2 green wires and that plugs into the injector circuit. The 2 green wires are the dual fusible links. Check that out.

I am interested in doing this, so I am documenting my actions as I go. Here is my start. This is nothing more than a plan at this point and I would like anybody with knowledge of the subject to review this and blow holes in it if you like. http://www.circuitflex.com/Fusible_Link2.html I will include full pics and detailed instructions if I decide that this is the best way to approach this. This is for a 78 280Z 5 speed. Any worthwhile suggestions are appreciated.

Are you sure of that, I know my stock 280Z front wheels have a 4" offset on them, so if he used a 3.5 it would move the whole thing out an extra .5 inch. Could be wrong, but it just sounds strange, and I have not tried to put different wheels on yet so I'm not really in the know ya know. Dale

I like the idea of the air hose Tim. I'll do that this weekend for sure. I do use a hand held vacuum pump the bleed with. I have a small chamber on it and I can pull about 20 inchs or so on it, open the valve, then run to the front a poor fluid for about 2 min. I did bench bleed the MC and did the passanger rear first, then the driver rear, then the passenger front then the drivers front. Lots of dark fluid came out, but no chunks. For what it's worth the rear wheel cylinders were trash, as were the shoes and springs. There is a lesson to be learned here though. Always mock up your parts before assy. I got the first set of shoes and cylinder done then went to the other side and found that one of my shoes was missing a spring hole! The guy at Autozone wanted me to bring the whole set back! I refused and the another guy came over and just pulled out 1 new one and put it in my hand. --- I'm glad the counter was high.---

Oh that was helpfull. I thought this boards strong point was tech. Oh well. Looks like everything needs replacing. Brakes that sat for 10 years are not trustworthy so for now its new wheel cylinders, new MC, new front capilers, and I'm just going to ditch the P valve and mount an adjustable for the rears. While I'm at it I am thinging about Steel braied lines. I put them on another car and they made a nice difference. Anyway I about done rebuilding the brakes, and with any luck someone else will have to take the Darwin award. Hell I've won that so many times that it's time to let someone else have it. I will upgrade the brakes at a later time, but I dont want to buy new wheels at this point. Fenders might be on order soon. Dale

Does anybody know what wire colors go where in the 2 fusible link boxs? My car came with wires in there and I'd like to get it fixed before I drive it much. Thanks, Dale Edit: Oh yea, it's a 78 280Z

Hey Tim, I really like that mirror, but on the website there are quite a few styles of that and they dont offer a for sure with the picture. I know its the top one, but is it the "GT" angled? or what? http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/ Dale

Well I was driving and noticed the car was getting sluggish and I thought that the fuel filter was plugging up, but when I let the clutch off the car came to a screaching halt and my brake pedal was hard as a rock. Back brakes were smoking real bad. I was close to home and idled it home, but their still locked up. Car has stock brakes and I dont know the condition, but before I had to pump the brakes to make them work. Wow, any ideas? Dale 78 280Z Edit: It was both front and rear that locked up. Makes me wonder about the booster or MC, Maybe the pro valve.

Thanks, I thought so. I have so many vacuum leaks. The car I got has not run in 10 years so all the vacuum hoses are brittle and cracked. Also some idiot must have worked on the injectors because at least 3 of them are missing the seals and sucking air. I've parked the car until I can get the leaks and seals fixed. Also there was no thermostat, and he has a wire run to the positive battery post that will cause the car to not run if it is disconnected. All the fuseable links have been replaced with wires. There was no air cleaner. Ahh, the joys of used car buying. The cars body is in good shape, thats why I got it.

Is the Pressure on the injectors controled by vacuum? If so then what is the pressure range? The reason I ask is at idle I am really rich and I am having vacuum problems. Thanks for any help, Dale

I bought the kit too. Mine is a 280Z and I will second your opinion on the quality of the parts, their top notch. With a little help on the time end of things I should get started on the swap within the next 2 months. Dale