DaleMX

The oil pan is a structural part of the engine and must be square. I would not recommend welding one. If you pull the pan you have to align it square with the rear of the block or the bellhousing wont go on correctly. That pan in the pic looks like it came from a Holden Montaro or maybe a new GTO. The regular F body oil pans are all the same as far as I know. Go over to LS1Tech.com and ask over there about the pan. Dale

I think your habits are like mine. I wont beat on the car alot. I like power but hard launches hurt things in any car. I'll go with the brute force stuff. Where can I purchase those U-joints? Dale

I dont see any AFR on the scan. Did you get a copy of that also?

Oops, I meant to put this over in "Drivetrain". Thanks for the answer though. I'm going to copy it and put it in the right place. Sorry, Dale

I have a 3.70 R200 LSD and want to install it along with a LS1/T56 conversion package into a 78 280Z. I was searching around and found this thread. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=27515 In it I see that Phantom is running a 3.70 LSD with the stock axle's with a Spice U-joint upgrade. I have 3 questions. Where can I get the spice U-joints, and what is the feeling for reliability using them. Or should I just go for the 300ZXT halfshaft. Thanks, Dale

Simply Awesome. Looks like it was designed to fit in there. If I was you I wouldn't sleep until I heard it running! Now I'm anxious to get my conversion started. Dale

Grumpy had something intresting he posted today along these lines. http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=34369 Dale

Now I see, very nice! What size relay did you end up using for the fan, 30 or greater? Dale

Yes that looks good. I have learned that tacking and welding small strips and allowing the metal to cool then going back will keep the metal from warping very much. I go hot and slow and work a zig zag pattern to fill. It's easy to burn through isn't it! Dale

Images do not appear, just a login for msn. Dale

Some of us are driven by the desire to go fast. Others are just plain disturbed. Still I love the sound of a GN.

Yea, then get the tires real hot and wala hindenbergZ. Well at the track they use nitrogen so there is no moisture in the tire to expand when heated making the pressure predictable.

Maybe a fuel line is too close to the exhaust somewhere and is creating vapor. Good luck finding the gremlins. Dale

That makes sense to me. I guess you had to cut into the floorpan to clear an area for 2X3. My floorpans are not rusted at all and look brand new and I'll be running a 3" exhaust. Correct me if I'm wrong please, but it sounds like I would have plenty of room for the 2X3 without going into the pans. Does going into the pans add to the strength as compared to just welding on the 2X3? Dale

I dont go to the classified section much, but I always read the std forums. Personally I dont mind a plug here or there. At least it makes me aware of whats out there. Maybe just make it known in the header that it's a plug and if folks dont want to read it they can pass it up. Looks like nice stuff Dave. Dale

Thanks for the info, I'm going to try some POR on tonight. Dale

Well I bought a Ford Taurus fan for my LS1 conversion and ended up with 2 of them so 1 is up for grabs. The fan is brand new and is an import. The packaging they shipped it in was a little too small and as you can see in TaurusFan3 the top of the shroud is bent down and touches the fan blade. It pulls away easily and the fan turn fine, but would have to be bolted in place, or heated and bent up to keep it in position. I thought I would offer it here for a good deal before I put it up on EBay. If your interested just PM me. http://www.circuitflex.com/TaurusFan1.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/TaurusFan2.jpg http://www.circuitflex.com/TaurusFan3.jpg Fan was sold today. 5/26/04

I was able to fix my over charging problem on my 78 280Z. Here’s my story. My 78 280Z has been overcharging the snot out of my battery since I got it last month. At first I thought it might be the ground connections, but I cleaned them all and checked them with my ohm meter and the grounds were ok but it still overcharged (17.7 volts at the battery at idle, over 19 when driving). Well 78 is the first year that Nissan decided to go to an internal regulator, deleting the external one. So I bought a new alternator and installed it. It still over charged like mad! Out of frustration I bought the service manual and went to the trouble shooting area for the charging circuit and it didn’t help at all. Well the wiring on this Z has been tampered with so much that you just don’t know where things are going so at least the good wiring diagrams of the manual helped me trace the problem out. What it finally ended up being was the wire connected to the “S†terminal of the alternator. That wire should be coming directly from the black fusible link that connects directly to the battery. If no voltage is on that circuit the regulator stays full open thinking it needs to charge full blast. I ran my trusty ohmmeter between the “S†terminal and the + side of the battery and go no reading! The last owner for whatever reason had changed the damn wiring. I ran a jumper from the “S†connector to the “B†connector on the alternator and suddenly it’s all running at 14.4 volts! Problem solved. Dale

Yea, I know. When I got my harness he was breadboarding and wiring it all together. I'm sure it would work, but I want my fuses and relays outside the box. Especially the PCM fuse. You will need to be able to remove it to clear the computer every once in a while. If it's in the box your stuck disconnecting the battery. Dale

Oscar built a harness for me and I am not pleased with it. I think I was one of his first customers back about a year and a half ago. The wiring inside the black box is a mess. The fuses are enclosed in the box, and the relays are missing the covers and are also in the box. I have another harness and am just going to try and make my own. I have the service manuals to double check my work and will try to document the cable, relays, and fuses for my instalation as I go. I have traced out what Oscar did and the connections look to be correct, but I dont trust it. Dale

I'm having a similar problem. I have replaced the MC, the calipers, and the wheel cylinders. I bench bleed the MC, and bleed the snot out of the brakes. Even blew out the lines as Tim suggested and the pedal is really soft still. I am suspicous of the factory valve and have ordered the prop valve kit with front bypass from Ross. If that does not fix it then I will assume that the new MC is at fault. The only other thing left would be the booster. I'll let you know how it all turns out. Dale

Thanks Jeff, Bill, Marcus. Now I know what I'm looking at. Call me dense, you would right! These subframe connector are just replacements for the original factory ones I presume. I know the ones under my car look dented up a bit so the factory steel must be a little thin. Jeff, in your pic I noticed an area welded on that looked like a mount for a roll bar. Was that a mount for a bolt in, or a weld in unit. Dale

Ok, so in the picture the 2 main rails that go under the floorpans are the subframe connectors. Is that correct? Dale

Can someone please explain, or show a picture of the subframe connectors on a 280Z. I have searched and seen the posts and pictures of the main rails, but can find no exacting detail on the subframe connectors. The reason I am asking is because of the planned LS1 swap. I have planned on a 6 point roll bar and front and rear tower connectors. From what I understand a subframe connector adds to the stiffness. I can cut and weld ok so do it yourself is not a problem, just have to know what to do. Thanks for any help, Dale

You need to clean the carbs. 5 year old gas makes varnish that plugs up all the small orifices. You may need new parts so just get some potent carb cleaner, disassemble the carbs and clean it all up. You will know if the seals and gaskets are ok once you get started.