pjo046

I am wondering what size fitting I need to couple the oil-feed line to the turbo to the outtake from the block. (What thread size is it on the piece that goes into the block and that the oil-pressure sender mounts to) Also, I need to know how to hook up the coolant lines to the turbo

I lined up the main seal on the crankshaft, after placing the crankshaft in the block. But while installing the rear-main cap I forgot to check the oil seal. So now after having installed the rear-main cap using sealer, the side seals and torqued down all the main studs I see that the oil seal isn't square on the crankshaft. And also, it isn't flush with the block, but pushed a wee bit further in. Is this a big problem, so I have to undo everything? Or can I just leave it be?

I am having problems getting the rear crankshaft oil seal onto the crankshaft. I have already broken one new seal in the process, so I have ordered a new one now. Does anybody have any tips or tricks? The flange on the crankshaft is a bit uneven and slightly rusted. Can I use some sanding paper to smooth it out a bit before my second attempt?

On my 1996 Audi A4 1.8T I have added a new sports downpipe and a cat replacement pipe. My car has an automatic transmission, but the downpipe is designed for A4's with manual transmission. When test-fitting, everything seemed fine. But after tightening up everything, the flex bend on the downpipe is in contact with the back of the tranny. It is pressed hard against a cooling rib on the transmission, so there is no movement. Is this a problem, or can I just leave it like this? As it is pressed so hard against it, I guess it won't move and make sounds? The downpipe is after the cat by the way, so it is a bit away from the turbo, thus heat transfer shouldn't be a big problem I guess. What do you guys think???????

And another! I am wondering about getting rid of my T5 and do this as well. How much does the adapter-kit cost?

All done. I used 1/4NPT instead of 3/8 NPT, so I didn't have to drill, only tapp. The threads were a bit thin this way, but I used plenty of loctite so I hope it'll be ok. When I went on to install the freeze plugs I found out that Tony had sent me a wrong plug. The plug in the rear of the block(The big one facing the tranny), which size is this supposed to be? I have to try to get hold of one here in Norway.

Actually, the block isn't assembled, it's ready for assembling. TonyD sent me some parts from USA, and he was supposed to send me a pair of press-fit plugs, but sent me dry-seal plugs instead. So that's why I have to drill and tap. I guess I'll have to use a high pressure washer after doing it then. But another hot-tanking is unecessary right? Hope so!!!

I will have to drill, because one bolt and tap is just to small, and one bolt and tap is just to big.

Now I have all the parts so that I can start assembling my engine. The only problem is that instead of new regular press-in plugs for the main oil gallery I got some flush-seal/dry-seal bolts. The block is already hot tanked, cleaned and painted, so I really don't want to go through all of that again. Does anyone have any good suggestions on how to drill and tap the holes without getting metal-residues inside the oil-gallery? I thought of covering up the whole block, only leaving each side of the oil-gallery exposed, put some paper or something some centimeters into the oil-gallery and then drill and tap. And when I am done I could vacuum clean it, and then drag the paper out again so that it would drag any residues along. What do you guys think?

Aha. That explains alot. Do you even know when he'll be home again?

Just as the heading says. I've been trying to reach him via e-mail for some weeks now. So I was just wondering if anyone knows if he is perhaps abroad or something, or if his e-mail server has collapsed or whatever? He was to send me some engine-parts, so that's why I need to get in touch with him.

Well, I started cleaning the block again today with more laquer-thinner. Then I got a bright idea. I used a 30% Phosphoric acid solution and a brush, and applied it onto all the exposed metal surfaces of the block. Phosphoric acid reacts fast with corrosion, but very slowly with metal. So I just let it soak in for a while, then wiped it of, and finally I cleaned everything with laquer-thinner. After that I applied generous amounts of oil to the surfaces to prevent any future corrosion while waiting for the assembly. Lastly I masked the block so that it is ready for painting. Just check out the pictures. No more rust. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7768&size=big&cat=500&ppuser=10354 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7770&cat=500&size=big&ppuser=10354 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7771&cat=500&size=big&ppuser=10354 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7772&cat=500&size=big&ppuser=10354 Today was a great day!

I would think the grooves only makes them easier to distinguish from the NA bolts. Yes, the NA bolts are some high quality fasteners, but the turbo bolts are better. But of course your best bet would be studs, as studs are far superior to bolts. ARP head studs are highly recommended.

I would think that the reason for the 135, 246 design is that it makes it easier to make a compact equal length header, without too many bends etc. That was what struck me the moment I saw this header. I totally agree about altering the angle at which the secondaries connect to the collector. That is easily fixed by just letting the secondaries go more head on eachother in the beginning and then let them bend so that they go nearly parallell to eachother when they merge. This way you could perhaps shorten the length outwards before the turbo flange. This would also put less stress on it all. As for the wastegate tube, simply angling it 45 degrees towards the turbo would fix that problem.

Wow! That's all I have to say. If you or someone else were to start making those I would definately want one! It looks awesome! Will that design yeild equal lengths on all of the primaries?

Thanks for the answer! I don't think I want to hone the bores again, as I have already had it lightly honed to remove the glazing, and I don't want to increase the clearances any more. Then I might end up having to get new piston rings and so on, because I can't have any more clearance then what I have now. I guess I'll just try to clean it over and over again with laquer thinner, as it will surely get better than it is now. I just hope this won't affect the sealing of the head gasket, or the ring break in... :-/

Bump

The thing is that I have already had it hot tanked. And if I hot tank it again, I will need to clean it afterwards anyway, as hot tanking only loosens everything, it doesn't completely clean the block. So you really think I have to go through the whole process once again?......

I covered the block with water dispersant oil immediately after cleaning it. I'm not sure if this is even rust, or just a chemical reaction. It looks like it comes from the rust in the water passages in the block perhaps? And again, it appeared in one minute's time when I was hosing of the wheel cleaner.... So, does anyone know if this will be a problem? Have anyone experienced this before?