pjo046

And what more is, does anyone have pictures of their installs? And perhaps of upgraded seats, stereo-systems etc?

Any recommendations on what power locks and electric windows to get? I have read that only some power locks will work due to the limited space?

Does anyone have a link to those pictures? I would like to upgrade the center console on my car. But retain the stock dash as that is quite cool. Does anybody have any recommendations?

As many know, I am building one mean(I at least hope it will be ) L28ET to put into my 1970 240Z. I intend to get somewhere around 400RWHP. Up until now I have been determined to keep the car as lightweight as possible, to get a car that is as fast as it can possibly be. BUT, I have started thinking... It is going to be a street-cruiser. I want it to be fast as he.. and that is my main goal. But it would be really nice to swap the Sparco Sprint seats I now have from my last Z, for something more comfy like 911 leather seats with power adjusting(Or without, as I guess that bit is quite heavy). It would also be nice with electric windows and power locks. Really good sound-deadening would be nice(But it weighs a bit), and so would a good stereo-system with a head-unit, front and rear speakers, a subwoofer and two amplifiers(This soundsystem would definately weigh a bit). But all in all, what would the weight difference really matter when I have such a strong engine in such a lightweight car? I am not going to drag race or anything. So will the difference in acceleration and power even be noticeable for a novice like me? I can have a very fast car with absolutely no luxury, and that is not very comfortable on long trips, or I can have a really comfortable ride, with as much luxury as many modern cars, and it would still be incredibly fast. I feel I don't manage to express myself the way I intend to, but I guess you get my point? Any thoughts on this anyone?

I was thinking that perhaps I should add electric windows and powerlocks to my 240Z. Is this a difficult thing to accomplish? Many here who has done it? Not sure if I would like to retain the locks or make it keyless. Is the quality of the universal stuff any good? (Will it be like modern factory equipped powerlocks and electric windows, or more like an amateursetup?) Will these two things add alot of weight to the car?(I am trying to keep it as lightweight as possible, yet I want as much comfort I can get at the same time. Hehe) Also, I have been thinking about getting a painless wiring harness or something. But I don't know if I need it or not. I mean, all engine management will be controlled by the Electromotive TEC3. And that can also controll the electric fan and the fuel-pump. But I am swapping all the gauges for autometer ultralights, and if I add powerlocks, electric windows and a decent stereo, then the new wiring harness idea might be a good thing? Or will I manage with the stock harness, trying to modify it(For the gauges mainly, the rest I can wire separate)? If so, I'll for sure need some help from some of you guys here, as wiring and such isn't my strongest abillity.

Thanks again!

I think it sounds like a great deal!! I would go for it! (If everything else seems to be ok) I do however agree that it would be best if you did the megasquirt install yourself. That way you know the procedure and know what to do if you want to change stuff etc. Me myself, I was dumb enough to buy a 1970 240Z with a stock L24 engine for 3200$. Thought it was in good shape, but it turned out it had quite a bit of rust once I examined it closely and started tearing it apart.(Bought if from USA, and I myself live in Norway. Had only seen pictures, and the owner claimed there wasn't any rust.... Yeah right) Turns out the front crossmember was bent, so I had to swap both that and the steering rack....

Ok! Now he has most of the wiring sorted out, except of this: From the ignitor there is a cut of wire that has the color Y/W. Where does this go? On the coil minus/side of the ignitor there is a blue wire. Where does this go? On the ignitor there is a black wire. Where does this go? On the coil pluss/side of the ignitor there is a black wire. Where does this go? Which wire is going to the tach? The car he is installing this in is a 260Z If he can get these wires sorted out, he is all set. He hasn't been able to take any pictures of the wires yet... Hope some of you can give him a clue?

Do you know the mileage? Where has it been stored? If you are doing a complete rebuild then it will be fine anyways I would think. If you plan on slapping it in the car and hooking it up, then you need to know a bit more. Take a leakdown test etc perhaps?

I hope no one thinks that Lonewolf Performance isn't a great company, because they are. We only had a misunderstanding which we are sorting out now. I first posted here because I wanted to know if anyone had any ideas if it could be fixed without sending the intake back. So pay no mind to all this. Their products are great and as this shows their customer care is great as well! I am really looking forward to receiving the head they have built for me, and when we get the intake properly modified it is gonna be awesome. Can't wait to assemble the engine and testing it out.

Well, haven't exactly gotten the issues solved. He wants me to send the entire intake and fuel rail back, along with two of my injectors so that he can modify the intake, and make a new fuel rail and new fasteners. But shipping from here to USA for that will be somewhere between 65 and 80$ And then shipping back from USA will be another 40$. How much does a set of six new domestic 550cc injectors cost?

Hmmm. Turns out neither the holes in the fuelrail nor the holes in the intake fit my injectors. The easiest and best sollution I think is if I send him my set of six new 550cc supra injectors, and he can get me a set of new 550cc domestic injectors that will fit my rail and intake. Anywho, you wanted pictures. Here's some for you: http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4626&cat=530&page=1

Brian, seeing that you have removed the front bumper, wouldn't it look better if you removed the one in the rear as well? I personally think that would look better. And you'd shed some more weight of at the same time.

Just one thing though. Are you absolutely set on having a N/A engine? You say you are on a budget, and don't have too much money to spend. The cheapest way to get 250hp is definately to slap on a 280ZXT turbosystem. You get all the parts you need for cheap on ebay, and you could invest in a bigger hybrid turbo and a good intercooler. You already have a L28, and I guess you have a CR somewhere in the early eights? That is perfect for a responsive turbo L6 with low lag. My previous Z was a 260Z. I bought it when it was already done modified. The PO had done all the modifications, and the reason I eventually sold it was I wanted more power, and needed a bigger platform(L28) to start a new and better build on. The 260Z had a STOCK L26 engine with no internal mods(CR around 8.3:1), which had been converted to turbo by using a small Rajay turbo(Some crappy thing, the Garrett would have been much better), injectors, ECU, harness, AFM, distributor, intake etc all from a 2.4 Maxima, two extra injectors controlled by a piggyback and a Saab 900T IC. It produced around 250hp and was very responsive. But still, if you started out with your L28 and got yourself a good hybrid turbo, you would do MUCH better than that. It seems like if you are going the N/A route you will spend several thousand dollars just to get a bit over 200hp? But of course I understand that a N/A and a turbo are two different things to drive and all, and that if you are decided on the N/A setup then you will go for it. I am just suprised no one has asked you about this, and that no one has mentioned the turbo-option. I see you are a newbie to the forum, so perhaps you haven't thought of this solution? If I am totally wrong, then forgive me for bringing the turbo-option up. I just thought I'd mention it for you just in case.

Yes, I know. But what can I do about it? The injectors I have are 550cc's and brand new ones. I'm not going to buy a new set..... Will I have to have made another fuel rail then? Or can I use thick rubber o-rings that will make it a tight fit? I will post pictures once I have taken some.

Will do when that time comes! (Take a picture) Man that sucks! I specifically said I was using Toyota Supra turboinjectors, NOT the big USA types. I sent him an e-mail about it, but he said that I should just get a bigger O-ring and use. Will that work? I don't want a leaking fuel system.....

Well, now I have received the custom intake manifold and fuel rail from Spork(Lonewolf performance) The intake looks superb! But the holes in the fuel rail seems to big for my Lucas 550cc injectors. I thought the O-ring injectors should just slide right in and that the little rubber ring on them should act as the sealer. Is it not so? Take a look at these pictures. Perhaps hard to see, but the hole is to big for the injectors. What must I do to correct this? http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4549&cat=530&page=1 Also, the fuel-pressure gauge is liquid-filled, but there is a big air bubble in it. Is it supposed to be this way? Will it perhaps dissapear when the engine is running and there is some pressure?

Hmmm. I have to check into that for sure then! But it is at least fine to run without a knock sensor hooked up right? You see, he has a N/A 2.8 that he has converted to turbo.

Just one thing though. You say one only needs: Y start signal (just run to the start terminal at the ignition switch) YW coil ignitior (goes to the transistor box on the coil mount) But don't you need a ground signal as well? At least you need that on the 81 harness as described by bumblezee. A totally different question: Do you need a head with a head-temp sensor to make this work? Because I don't think my friend has a P90 head on his engine. Will the engine run fine although the head-temp is unconnected?