pjo046

Hmmm. I wrote that other post very late yesterday, and obviously I was a bit tired. - When I say I have done electric welding with it, I meant welding without gas, by using a flux-core metall wire. - I said it was a combined MIG/TIG welder, but what it is is a combined MIG/MAG welder. Not sure what MAG stands for, perhaps it's a Norwegian term you don't use? So sorry for the misinformation. " MIG is constant voltage wire feed welding." Ok, so that means I have been MIG-welding all along then? Only withoug gas. So, MIG welding WITH gas, is in fact easier because you don't get the same amount of burn through and less splatter? All I'll need is a bottle of gas and a pressure regulator? Although I see it's recomended to get a separate gun, line and spool for SS welding. Does this make a huge difference, or will it be ok with using the same equipment as with the no-gas welding?

Ok. Thanks for the replies. I guess I'll just sand away all of the inside coating then, so there won't be a problem with the coating breaking loose. Weird that mine has been coated on the inside if this isn't done normally. I bought it new from James Thagard. The exhaust manifold is also coated on the inside as well as the outside. But I figure that won't be a problem since I won't remove anything from it as it was like I said ported before it was coated. Or should I be worried about that inner-layer breaking loose as well, even though it is all intact?

That looks real nice! Really like the way the intercooler is mounted!

I have been using my electric welder for some months now, and have learned how to do it by now. The only problem with electric welding is that I can't weld stainless or aluminium. The welder I have is a combined electric and MIG/TIG welder. So, is it hard to do MIG welding compared to el-welding? When MIG welding, do you have to refill the gas bottle often, or is it very little gas that is used each time? I have never used a MIG or seen others do it, so if someone could explain what it involves that would be great. Is it hard to adjust the gas pressure properly etc? Would like to be able to make the stainless exhaust system, the intercooler piping etc myself. Also, is there a problem with welding steel/stainless steel brackets onto an aluminium intercooler? The sparco unit I have came without any brackets on it... Also the flange for my Blitz BOV is steel, whereas my intercooler piping is stainless steel.

Sounds like a good plan! So if you have flat tops and a P90 you'll get somewhere around 8.5:1 CR depending on which HG you use. That's about where I am as well. For 300RWHP, 420cc injectors would be more then enough. But of course, it's always smart to plan ahead, in case you later on feel that you need more power. A watercooled turbo is a good choice to prolong the turbochargers life. Does Z31 T3 have the same A/R etc as the 280ZXT T3? I have been gathering parts for my car since december 2004 when I bought it. I have most of the parts for the puzzle now. Can't wait to put it all together. Yea, can't say I'm looking forward for the bodywork on the car myself. The underside's ok, because nobody will see it anyways so it doesn't have to have a perfect finish. I was planning on having the car painted by an automotive painter, but because of the high costs involved I'll just do it myself. It will be my first time, but hopefully I'll manage it. The prep work is what is important.

Hi! I see you have solved your problem and everything. Anywas, I bought one of those internal wastegates that oinojo reffered to. http://atpturbo.com/root/releases/release103105.htm Received it in the mail today. This thing is awesome compared to the stock one. Unfortunately I don't have my camera with me at the moment. The flapper has room to sving a full 90 degrees, so it is totally out of the way, thus not hindering flow. Furthermore, the puck is bigger, so one can port the wastegate hole even more. And of course the flow from the turbine itself is drastically improved. Just thought I'd recommend it to you. I would think it would make a huge improvement for you. With this thing available, there is no longer any need to go external before you start chasing REALLY high numbers. I for sure am glad I bought it!

Well, here's the deal. Both my ported exhaust manifold, and the turbine housing on my turbo has been ceramic coated in the USA where I bought them, before it was shipped to me. (Ceramic coating, like anything else here is DARN expensive over here in Norway) Now, the T3 hole in the turboflange on the manifold has also been ported, so the hole is larger than the inlet on the turbo. Also, I have bought one of these: http://atpturbo.com/root/releases/release103105.htm The wastegate flapper on this one is bigger than the stock one that came with the turbo, so to fully utilize this unit's potential, I thought I'd perhaps port the wastegatehole on the turbine housing to improve flow. What I am concerned about is this: IF I port match the inlet on the turbine housing and also enlargen the wastegatehole, the ceramic coating in these areas will be removed of course. I won't have the money to recoat it because of the poor availability of such services here and the incredibly high cost. So would you recommend against doing the porting on the turbine housing? It would greatly improve flow, but could it cause the remaining ceramic coating inside the housing to start to peel of, and perhaps in the long run damage the turbine-wheel? I have no clue about this, that's why I'm asking

When I bought them, I was intending to use the stock datsun manifold. They would be plug and play into the manifold, but they are O-ring injectors, so some modifications would perhaps be required for them to fit a barbed fuel rail. But along the way I decided to buy a custom turbo manifold from Lonewolf Performance, so the intake and fuel rail have been made to fit these injectors specifically. Yes, I hope it will look good. I don't know how much time I have spent wondering about how I want the car to look. Thought I had decided upon something, then I saw something else that I liked. It's hard! After seeing 240hoke's car all done, I was wondering about going for that color for a while. But I think it will be the BMW steelgrey, haven't seen another Z with that color yet. How far along are you with your car? What are the specs on it?

That looks great!!! I got ripped of with the car I bought. Paid 3200$ for a car that was supposedly rustfree. Which it turned out it was NOT! Congratulations on a very nice purchase!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have a set of Lucas 550cc injectors. Got them of ebay for about 300$ I believe. New of course. As for the paint, it will be BMW steel grey (400 stahlgrau). Also it will have the original chrome fenders front and rear, original chrome sideview mirror on the driverside and no mirror on the passenger side. I will run a MSA airdam up front, with brake cooling ducts. The rims I will be using are 17x7 Konig Imagine, paired with 225/45-17 tires. Haven't decided yet wether or not I will shave the drip rails. I have shaved the side marker lights front and back, and also shaved the fuel-door.(Will use a summit fuel cell). I am removing all the Z emblems etc, just keeping the rear hatch grilles that are original on the first generation 240Z's. So I hope it will be a clean and good looking car.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO If I wasn't having a bad day before, well, this didn't make it any better.... You lucky bastards........

Good to know! I will of course check it when I receive the measuring tools TonyD bought for me, but I must say I have been a bit worried. So does anyone know if hot tanking will remove the rust in the cooling passages? Unfortunately I don't have my camera here at the moment, as my girlfriend is on vacation and has taken it with her, so cant take any pictures of it. And is it recommended getting a new oil pump when the one I have only has 50K on it?

Yes, well at least on the bottom of that product page it says HKS. That's were I got my 1mm HKS gasket.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CP&Category_Code=s30_nismo_headgasketL28 There you go. Courtesyparts. They have the HKS gaskets. I don't know wether or not the ones MSA sells are HKS, but I believe courtesy are cheaper?

I am going with a 8.5:1 CR on my build. It's nice to have good of-boost characteristics as well! Seeing you are going with a standalone, you have much better controll when tuning the engine compared to those running the stock system, so I would say the standalone makes up for the increased risk of detonation when running this higher CR.

First of all, when I tore apart the engine about a year ago I didn't know much about the internals of these engines or engines in general. I hadn't bought the How to rebuild and How to modify books yet at the time either. So I made one big mistake when trying to remove the rear main cap. Instead of using two bolts loosely inserted into the cap as handles to get it of, I lightly and repeatedly hit the end of the crankshaft with a rubber hammer and used my hands to try and rock the main cap back and forth untill I could get it loose. Is it likely that I can have damaged the crankshaft because of this, by having induced some runout/bend? If so, I guess a new crankshaft would be needed? In the how to modify book it is recommended to remove the main oil gallery plugs, and drill and tap the holes instead. Is this something most of you do when rebuilding a shortblock? Is it recommended? Also, it is advised to enlargen the upper bolt on the slack side chain guide, because these can break of because of chain slap. Will this be a problem when the engine isn't run above 7000RPM? Or would you recommend me doing this upgrade as well? The engine I am rebuilding, I bought from of a used-engine dealer in the USA, through Ebay. The engine only had 50K miles on it(Was taken from a totaled 280ZXT and had been in their storage for several years), and I believe that mileage to be true due to the condition of the inside of the engine. None of the main or rod bearings show any signs of wear, and the cam-chain, tensioner and guides all looked like new. However, because the engine has been stored away for a long time, a lot of rust has accumulated in the cooling passages. I found that out just yesterday when removing the freeze plugs. Is it normal with some rust behind those, or is this a very bad thing? The books don't say much about it. Will hot tanking clean up things like that? So, here is what I have planned for the shortblock, along with some more questions: - I will polish and balance the rods and fit them with ARP rod bolts. Will shot peening be necessary for a 400rwhp build? - I will balance the pistons - I will check the crankshaft for runout, taper and out of round, and if that is all within spec I had only planned on polishing the crank journals and don't do anything else to the crankshaft. Is there something else I should do to it? I have by the way bought a crank scraper which I will install. - The block I will have honed to remove the glaze for proper ring seating, I am in the process of smoothing out the block interior to remove casting lines and casting sand residues, it will be resurfaced and hot tanked, and then there is the question wether or not to remove the main gallery plugs and tap the the holes, and wether or not to resize the upper bolt on the slack side chain guide. Is there something I am forgetting that I should do to the block? The head is rebuilt by lonewolf performance, so the only thing I should need to do with it is install it and adjust the valve clearances. Furthermore, I have Clevite 77 main and rod bearings, and ARP head and main studs. All in all, is there something I have forgotten in this build, or will this be enough to make a more or less bulletproof engine for my goals? With an engine with such low mileage, is it recommended getting a new oil pump? I have read that many times, new pumps are out of spec. How about the spindle gear? If I manage to properly balance the rods and pistons myself, will it matter much that the crankshaft hasn't been balanced in the "overall" balance of the bottom end? If you get what I mean? Because balacing the crankshaft is of course something I can't do myself, and having it done will be ridiculously expensive over here in Norway. (about 500$)

Man, did that video make me wanna get my car done or what? Unfortunately it probably won't be ready for this summer.... I envy you!

He's probably going to run the turbo in front, and have the downpipe etc on the other side of the engine. Because there can't be enough space left on that side for it.

Yep. He goes by the nickname 240Z Turbo here at hybridZ. His homepage is: http://www.SpeedShopThagard.com

Not only custom cars have the rear disc brakes right next to the differential, so does the Jaguar E-type(At least the series 1) and the Alfa Romeo GTV 6.