pjo046

Well, I was strongly considering getting some proffesionals here in Norway to put together my shortblock since I don't have access to micrometers and all that other fancy equipment you need according to the How to rebuild... book. Also, I wanted peace of mind that everything would be done correctly, and that I wouldn't mess up. Well, I checked on prices. (There are few machine-shops here in Norway, and prices are skyhigh. I knew that in advance. That's why I had Lonewolf performance do my p90 head for me because the labour is much cheaper in USA. As is the parts by the way. EVERYTHING IS EXPENSIVE IN NORWAY.... ) Anywho... I just got an answer from the machineshop. They said they would use a full day to assemble the shortblock for me(Unless something wasn't as it should be and they had to fix that, then it would take longer and cost more), and they would charge me 555NOK (Aproximately 85$) an hour + VAT(which is 25%, which means an additional 21$) + any possible workshopmaterial(Lubrication, grease, etc) I mean, a full day means what 8 hours? That means 106$ x 8 = 848$, plus say 50$ of workshopmaterial. That nets a total of 900$ just to assemble the shortblock..... By the way, this was only assembly, not resurfacing the block or getting the sylinderwalls honed, I have another person who can do this for me cheaper. Unfortunately he hasn't got much experience with these engines, nothing at all actually. Otherwise I would have asked him to do the assembly. As for tuning the TEC3 system I have, if I did the rough-tuneup myself so that the engine is running smooth etc when I hand the car to them, they reckoned it would take about a day for them to tune it properly(UNLESS SOMETHING WENT A BIT WRONG, then it would take longer time and cost more etc). Actually, his exact words was that: "we get time to do a lot in one day". In my head that means that they will be able to do a lot of the tuning in one day, but it will probably take a bit longer than one day to complete the tuning. And he further said that if something should not go as planned, the hours fly by quickly. (So then it would perhaps take two full days to tune it?) For the tuning on the dyno, they charge 750NOK(115$) + VAT(30$) per hour, + any possible workshopmaterial. (What would that be, electricity for the dyno? Haha) So if everything goes as planned, and they work fast and only use one day on the tuning, that's gonna cost me 1160$..... I can always check around more, but that is about the price level I guess, unless I get in touch with someone who knows someone etc. And here in the town I live in(Which is the second largest in Norway) there is only two dyno's. This one I am talking about, and another which is equally expensive. Therefore I am thinking of doing the whole thing myself. How hard is it to assemble the engine really? I have never done this before, although I have done pretty much everything else to a car. I have rebuilt two turbos before, I have swapped a timing-belt on my Opel Vectra etc. Is it really necessary to use micrometers etc to measure each and every part of the engine up and down? I am not going for an engine that can withstand like 8500rpm and trying to get 600rwhp, my goal is 400rwhp and I will set the rpm-limit at 7000rpm just to be safe. And how hard is it to tune the electromotive TEC3 system once you get a bit familiar to it? The more info and advice you guys can give me, the better. I really don't want to spend over 2000$ on this(if everything goes smooth and fast, if not it could end up at 3000$ or more).

I know. Like I said, hindering TOO MUCH movement of the fuel. I guess it will be fine just as long as I don't let the needle reach the empty-mark on my fuel gauge.

What about the Electromotive TEC3?

No, it's a plastic fuel cell from summit. So I can't do any modifications to it. But like J. Solieau said, I think it will be ok as long as we don't run the tank near empty. y2daniel1981: I thought the foam was inside the actuall fuel-bladder in the cell? Sorta like a huge sponge or something? Thus hindering too much movement of the fuel.. Correct me if I'm wrong. From your post I understand it so that you mean the foam is between the outer fuel cell shell and the bladder inside?

I know that fuel cells are supposed to be installed so that the fuel pickup is in the rear. Is it ok to install it the other way so that the pickup faces the front of the car? That would be much more convenient because then I could get the cell further back, which is important as I am installing a filler neck and want the fuel cap to be under the license plate. (will use some sort of hinge function on the license plate. That way the cap is hidden) I then need the cell as far back as possible so that I get a step enough angle for the hose that goes from the filler neck to the fuel cap/inlet. I know the pickup should really ideally be in the rear because under heavy acceleration, the fuel would be pushed back and towards the pickup. But I have a foam filled fuel cell, so I guess the fuel wouldn't move too much around anyway? And I would avoid running it near empty before I fill it up again.

Thanks for hijacking my thread... Hehe, just kidding! Anyways, do you know where I can get hold of a weld in roll-bar kit for the 240Z at an affordable price?

You haven't told us what the seller is asking for the engine yet. Hard to give advice on wether you should buy or not when we don't know how much you have to pay... Also, you first said you had found yourself a L28ET engine. But this isn't that at all, as you said yourself it's a NA. You can of course turbocharge that engine, but not without lowering the compression. For that you would need dished pistons. Then there's a question wether the performance cam that is installed will work with a turbo. I don't have a clue about cams, so I can't help you there. I personally wouldn't have bought that engine if my intention was to turbocharge it. Then I'd get myself a L28ET instead, and rebuild it if required. But if you want a NA engine, then that's a whole different story. It isn't a stroker though, so I doubt it making in excess of 250hp.

Just make sure you stay away from the turbos from SSautochrome and their "XS" brand turbo's, and the like. I would talk to James Thaggard. He set me up with a real nice T3/T4 hybrid! Just tell him about your goals, and what type of engine you want, and he'll supply you with the turbo you need. He has really good prices too!!!! He is a turbo guru. His homepage is: http://www.speedshopthagard.com/

I would recommend getting a cheap engine and do a rebuild. You learn very much valuable information about the engine during this process, so that later, if problems should arise, or you need to alter something, you will be familiar with the engine. Also, when you rebuild it yourself, you get a chance to insure that everything is done properly, and that there are no internal problems with the engine. It isn't as hard to do as one should think. I had serious doubts wether or not to dissasemble my engine, but I am glad I did.

Thanks!

Hmmm. Well, I'll at least continue to stitch weld every seam on the car. I must admit, that at first I did some seam welding under the car, before reading about the stitch weld process here. I seam welded the sub-frame connectors in place, and I also seam welded the frame rail bars from Baddogparts. Have I messed everything up doing this? Well, I know I have, but I mean, will this put too much stress on everything, causing something to crack?

I am going to install a L28ET in my 1970 240Z, and I am hoping for 400rwhp and as much torque as I can get with it. I have searched a lot, and read many posts both here and on zcar.com regarding this. I know the chassis will need to be reinforced in some way. But I don't want to install a complete roll cage, as this is going to be a street car with much comfort. What I have done so far is: - I have connected the subframes - I have installed baddogparts' 240Z frame rail bars over the existing(completely rust free) frame rails. - I have stitchwelded along most of the seams underneath the car - I have bought a pair of strut tower bars of ebay, just like the ones MSA sells. I know it would be better with TEP's strut tower braces, but I found that out after I had bought the pair I have now. Is it a necessity to swap to the TEP style braces? Also, how does that front brace mount to the firewall? Is it welded in place and thus a pain in the *** to remove? So do you think I will be needing more reinforcement than what I have already done? An important thing to remember is that I will be using an open R200, and only run 225 widht tires front and rear. So that means that when huge torque is applied, I'll get wheelspin instead of chassis-warping. Right? So far I have thought I would be ok, but the more posts I read regarding this, the more doubt I get. I was thinking about getting a rollbar of some sort. Will this improve things? Any suggestions as to which to get? How about the one MSA sells?

Hi! Check out this site for hints: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm Everything you need to know should pretty much be there.

http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/head.html

Ok. Thanks!

Well, I have the block on an engine stand, and the crank, rods and pistons are taken out. Does anyone have an estimate of how much the empty block weighs? I am thinking of taking it off the stand, but can I carry it or is it to heavy?

Well, as I said in an earlier post: "it's rated at a maximum fuel pressure of 75 psi, and it flows 4 to 5 gpm. The smallest particles it filters is 85 microns." 4-5 gallons per minute means it flows 240-300 gallons per hour. I see it says carbureted when I click the link for application. But as long as it can withstand pressures of 75psi I guess it shouldn't be any problem? I found a summit filter that is meant for fuel injection. It is of the same design as this I have bought, but it can flow only 150gph, and the maximum pressure it can take is 100psi. It filters particles down to 10 microns. So, will the filter I have see more than 75psi on my car because it's fuel injected? If not, why should it be a problem? Also, is it's filtering capabilities good enough when it doesn't filter particles under 85 microns? By the way, when I checked that fram filter you are refering to, it says that that filter is meant for carburetion as well.

So, does anyone know if this fuel filter is ok to use with my setup?

Well, it's rated at a maximum fuel pressure of 75 psi, and it flows 4 to 5 gpm. The smallest particles it filters is 85 microns. Hope it will do, because this is what I have bought from summit.... :-/

Will a fuel filter like this work with my setup? http://store.summitracing.com/largeimage.asp?part=EAR-230206ERL I am trying to get 400hp, will use a fuel cell with 6AN lines, a walbro pump etc. Will a filter like this do?

Have anyone here ever swapped to lowering springs on a BMW E36 320? Is this hard to do? A friend of a friend of mine has bought lowering springs for his 320, and now asks if I can swap them for him. I haven't seen the car yet, so I don't know how the setup is on these cars. Is it just to unbolt the top strut-mount, lower the strut a bit, compress the springs and swap, or is there much more to it?

I am going with a 8.5:1 compression on my engine. And I will shoot for at least 14 psi of boost, likely more. But then I'll use a standalone engine-management system, a good intercooler, and forged pistons.

I don't think this is compressor surge. I had compressor surge on my previous car before I installed a BOV on it. And that sounds more like a shwooop sound, like when closing a door that has a lot of pressure coming out of it. It's, weak at the beginning, then becomes stronger and stronger and suddenly stops. Takes about 1.5 seconds

Has anyone installed that SPAL-kit that there is a link to in one of the threads here? Is it hard to install into a 240Z? How is it done? If it's an easy thing to do I'll definately buy a kit.

Well, you know I live in Norway(In europe ), so all those stores you mention are unfamiliar to me. BUT, the prices on electronics and much about anything are way higher here than in the US, so I was thinking of buying everything online, possibly through ebay. I hope to manage to install the electric windows and power locks myself. The stereo will be easy to install, have done that many times. What I am wondering about is the placement of the stereosystem.