pjo046

The bolt pattern is the same. Only problem is the injector holes. But that is easily modified. That is what was done on my E88 head on my L26 Turbo-setup.

My last Z was a 260Z 2+2. It had a L26 engine with an E88 head, and this engine was turbocharged. The compression was just about 8.2:1. I had no problems with that engine whatsoever. I ran about 15 psi on it with a stock headgasket. I never had it on a dyno, but the PO I bought it from claimed it produced 250hp. Not sure wether that was on the wheels or not, but the car was fast. Mind you it was a heavy 2+2, yet I managed 0-60 in 6.5 seconds. So I would think it was 250rwhp. After owning that car for a while, I learned more about the L6 engines and the Z's, so decided to start from scratch and build something much better. Didn't really like the 2+2 chassis anyway. But had I not sold the car, I could have made the engine perform much better than it did. It had a small Rajay turbocharger, a small Saab 900T intercooler, stock 280Z injectors and ECU etc + a piggyback that controlled two extra injectors that kicked in when boost came on. Ergo, not a good setup at all. I could have swapped to a standalone engine management, upgraded to a 2mm steel headgasket, installed a T3/T4 hybrid turbo, a bigger intercooler and bigger exhaust, ARP head studs and so on, and I would have seen much higher numbers. So there is no problem with turbocharging a L26.

Well, here are some photos I took this weekend. It looks a bit worse on the photos than it actually is, due to the flash on the camera. The photo of one of the bore's is a bit bad quality unfortunately. So, what do you guys think? Is this a problem? http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7647&cat=530 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7646&cat=530 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=7645&cat=530

I have wiped the bores, deck etc clean. Of course there is some left that won't go away no matter what. So you think I should be fine?

Well, something odd happened the other day. Earlier this spring I used a dremel to smooth out the interior of my F54 block, I removed the freeze plugs, oil-gallery plugs etc. Cleaned it all up real good. Then I sent the block to a machine shop to have the deck straightened, have the cylinders honed and finally have it hot tanked.When I got it back I covered it with WD40 to prevent rust. Some days ago I took the block outside to do some final cleaning with a high pressure washer and some detergent/soap before I could start assembling the engine. I found a wheel cleaner in my fathers garage that was supposed to be real powerful, so I used that. I sprayed it on and let it work for a while, then hosed it all of. But it was like a chemical reaction happened between the metall and the cleaner, and all the surfaces on the block got a rust-like color. I sprayed WD-40 all over the block again, and then air-dried it. Now, after I have gotten it inside again, I have used paper towels to wipe off the "rust" layer everywhere. There is some left that won't go off, even with laquer thinner or the likes. So, my question is, do you think I can go ahead and assemble the engine despite this? Or will it ruin the build if I do so?

The car won't be ready untill next summer. However, I have all the parts for the engine-build now, and I have time to start building it. Is it ok to build the engine, and let it sit for a year before installation into the car? Or is this a bad thing to do?

Is it necessary to sand down to metal and reaply primer, filler and so on, or will it suffice to just smoothen out all surfaces, then apply a new primer and then the paint and clearcoat?

"i kinda figured that i could always put a couple of supplemental injectors in my intake pipe after the intercooler later when i want to get more boost." I wouldn't to that. That's not a good way to do it. I know, because I had a setup like that on my previous Z... When you come to the point where you want to go beyond what the stock L28ET injectors can handle, I would upgrade the main injectors, and get megasquirt to control it all. Not that expensive. "Is there such a thing as a cheap wideband o2 mixture setup. i would like to go wideband so i can do a better job on tuning but i dont feel like spending more than $150 or so..should i just go with a narrow band o2 setup?" A narrow band O2 setup is no good. I also had that on my previous Z. LOL. The response is really slow, so you see the rise and fall in A/F ratio long after it actually occurs. $200 will get you the Innovate LC1 or what it's called. That is a wideband controller and sensor, but it is without a gauge though. But if you upgrade your engine management you can log it all on the portable computer you will use for the mapping. Not sure how that is done with megasquirt as I am not familiar with it, but I would think megasquirt also has that option? Others will have to chime in on this.

I have a spare L24 engine( pulled it from the car due to the L28ET swap). I was thinking of rebuilding it later on. It has the E31 head. I have read that this is a desirable head? (http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html) I am wondering wether to turbocharge this engine, or to up the compression and put on a header and so on. Is it doable to turbocharge this engine, or is it a bad idea with that head? L6 engines are hard to come by over here in Norway. If they weren't I wouldn't have bothered rebuilding this, as a 2.8L block would be a better starting point. But what would you recommend doing with this engine I have? If I choose to build it up a bit as a N/A, can it become a snappy little thing, or will it not make any good power?(All N/A builds I hear about on here and at zcar.com etc are 2.8liters or strokers. Not sure what this engine is capable of) I am not looking to spend much on it. If I turbocharge it I already have a set of spare manifolds lying around, and a set of L28ET pistons I could put in it if I bored it up. Also I have the stock P90 turbocam that I am not using. Perhaps this could go into the E31 head? Furthermore I have a L28ET ECU and wiring harness. If I go the N/A route I have a pair of SU's that look real nice, and I would buy a header and a 1mm HG or even the 0.7mm HG if someone still sells it, and also an upgraded cam. What are your thoughts on this matter?

How is boost pressure in psi converted to the PR rating on the turbo graphs? (Perhaps I am just stupid when I'm not seeing this connection right away? )

It should have been Thumper racing him.

The intercooler won't cool the charge from the T3 to the same temp as from the T4. It will remove the same amount of heat from both, but with the T3 charge temp being higher initially, it will still be higher after it has passed through the intercooler.

I think you'll have a hard time trying to get 7psi of boost on a 10.5:1 CR L6 engine. If I were you I would lower the CR a bit!!

You should definately get a blow of valve!! It protects against compressor surge. If you don't have a blow of valve, when you suddenly close the throttle(If you are changing gear or braking), all the air that is rushing towards the TB will meet a closed throttle, and thus crash into it and move in the opposite direction back towards the compressorwheel. When this happens, the compressorwheel will be forced to a sudden stop. This can cause damage to the compressorwheel and the bearings. Furthermore since the wheel stops spinning, it will take longer time go get it spinning again when you are have changed gear and are accelerating. If you have a blow of valve, when the throttle is suddenly closed, the vacuum in the intake manifold will act to open the blow of valve, so that the air that has crashed into the throttle and changed direction can flow out of the blow of valve instead of back towards the compressor. This enables the compressor wheel to keep spinning, so that when you once again accelerate you will experience less lag. So the blow of valve does two things, it protects the turbo from compressor surge, and it helps reduce the lag you experience when shifting gears.

Looking good!

Haha. Anyone who have been visiting zcar.com alot earlier on will know about bubbleguniea! He ended up getting banned from that site.

I have bought one of those intakes, in fact, my intake was the prototype. Of course I haven't assembled the engine yet, I am in the middle of the rebuild now. But the intake looks really good, it flows way better than the stock intakes, and is really something to consider if you want to make some more power. It also gives a much cleaner look in the engine bay!! The price isn't bad either!

The diameter of the flapper is 33mm, compared to the 29mm stock one.

According to the how to rebuild your Datsun OHC engine book, the L28 Turbo head bolts are to be torqued to 65 ft-lb (9.0 kg-m) Remember to torque them in steps, following the right sequence.

I see. Well, if I am to weld a steel part to a stainless steel part, what is best to use? SS filler or regular steel filler?

Are you wanting do to this because of functionality, but not because of appearance? Then I say don't do it. Do you really think it will make much difference? Do you normally run your car in so high speed that this would be a matter of concern? If you look at my signature picture, you see that in that state, there will of course be alot of air trapped back there. But you still have your wheel well and also a fuel tank there. Then there's the twin mufflers. Not much room left for air to be trapped? Of course some, but not much I would think.