Psykovertible

i am going to use the vacupan from milodon race products. probably overkill but some things i just take do simply cause dad says i should http://www.milodon.net/new%20images/85700%20.GIF u put two things in the collector or in pipes like a smog pump inlet would be found. those create vaccuum in the crank case that works off of the exhaust gasses passing over them and sucks a vaccum through the breathers in each valve cover.

i bought the MSA mounts and love them. simple and clean. i intend to weld them to the original motor mount perch after final fitment. cost me $235 to my door in think it was. could do JTR a little cheaper and get more with kit but i just liked MSA better. keep in mind that aircleaner choice get more less desireble as you stray from JTR. Over motor position...... JTR hands down. that will be the consesus here at hybridz. most widely used for sure

pics of those custom headers please?

i have heard that they are in the GNX cars too. also, if you are going to rebuild a 200-4R trans it costs about the same as a 700-R4. So building each to handle the same power should cost about the same. then it's a matter of size/weight/gear ratios/ and the split in ratios from gear to gear. if memory serves me right.... the 200 has not as deep first gear but has closer splits. i like close ratio. clsoe ratio likes me. i think my driving style(torurous) is better accomodated with the close ratio.

you install the adaptor flange onto the driveshaft with the u-joint. so a flange is welded to drive shaft permantly, then the u-joint installed, then the adapt flange installed onto u joint, then it bolts to diff

well i think for the good of the team the set up should be made a 1 3/4" primaries. well rounded number that meets in the middle. however, i am running a 400SBC and want a 1 7/8. I dont really want to take one for the team cause i am kinda selfish. MY VOTE IS 1 7/8" PRIMARIES WITH A 3" COLLECTOR. Maybe they'll make a tri-y???? I keep trying to remember that for my application it probably makes no difference. I am building the motor to be between 400 - 500 HP and I was told that my car with no motor/trans/interior is 800 lbs. yet to get it on a scale though. figured i would just worry about the final assembly weight.

I am a little confused. I read here in one thread that the full length headers MSA is selling are the ones made by S&S headers and that they are the 5205 long tube block huggers. MSA= $439.99 S&S= 374.25 I thoughta that MSA was using Hooker headers. Has that changed now that they are selling mounts that are not modeled after the scarab mounts? Anyone who could help me out on this would make my day.

i agree about the manual. i already threw away the MSA two page window wiper and have had the JTR manual for years. i have been waiting patiently for this car to come along since selling my last one in a tuition crunch. JTR is tried and proven to be reliable and affordable. I just simple prefer the appearance of the msa kit. mounting is very close now days so there is not much to gain postion-wise.

the newer style MSA mounts position the motor only about a half inch higher and quarter inch forward of JTR. this based on rough measurements to compare. my MSA mounts are basically 2" box tube with a quarter inch plate welded on driver side bracket for steering shaft clearance.

can't remember spelling either but i believe it is NEAPCO. The phone number to a vendor here in phx az is 602-258-2552. the part number is 2-2-899.

damn those are sweet. anyone wanting to volunteer to manufacture a set to match the custom tri-y in pic?

17 x 9 with a 275/____/17 ? a budy of mine ran a 215/60/15 and had to roll the fender lips to make that fit with 0 offset and stock susupension

dang...... hurray for safety seats/harnesses. and people say that 5 points have no place on the street. humbug on that crap. harness all the way

mine not far off from needing headers for a test fit. way far off from running though. using msa mounts to did some measuring and with the newer MSA mounts they use the same rubber motor mount as jtr. the thickness of msa in 2" passenger and 2.25" driver, each side with a 2.75 inch setback. jtr appears to be 1.5 pass and 2.5 driver when plate and spacer combined...with a 3 inch set back. therefore JTR = 0.25 inch further back. 0.5inch lower on pass side, 0.25 inch higher on driver side (for steering shaft)....... when compared to MSA. closer than i thought.... ps.... i made guestimates using 0.25 inch as a rounded number of JTR plate thickness. they are actaully a little over that so the difference in motor height will be closer yet by a 1/16 inch casue the plate are more like 5/16 thick.

i have a huge question that is burning a hole in my pocket. can i use the 8" harmonic balancer with msa kits? I know it wont fly with JTR but this is higher.

well i fuigured that the motor/trans go in/out as one unit anyhow right? usually if you are changing the trans mount there is enough room ot shove tranny up a little for the space needed to squeeze mount in there. i dont know about a z.

thats funny about the emmison inspector. i had to argue with the one here in AZ cause he wanted to check for emmission gear under my hood. no underhoood here for 73 and back. my car was a cluster with hoses and crap everywhere. got it through without a problem but he fought with me for a few about it.......then flunked me for the poor emmissions numbers it blew. guess in the end he got his laugh. dammit

Z Geezer........ how much? i am looking into the swap now. i like the idea because it should be easier than an R230 and parts are available. jake in AZ

i may or may not use my munice. its an m20 out of a 65 chevelle with a 327 SB. i have a hurst street super shifter with billet alluminum 3"set back plate and matching straight aluminum rods with heim ends. May sell if interested. I figure since the shifter new cost 250 and the rods and plate cost 316 700 bucks for everything is probably fair. shifter was used for about 6 months in other car and tranny should be good but maybe do bearings/synchros for safety. jake

you know. i had considered welding the tranny bracket into the hump. put the motor/trans in as a unit..... after its in the hole...... slide it back into the cradle.... bolt the mount to bracket...... room for this to be done you think? i guess i just want it to be as strong as possible and if the bracket was welded in it would reinforce the floor pan and would not be a piece of steel bolted only to sheet metal. i realize that it is probably fine to bolt but i am paraniod. BTW... how's the T5 holding up in your boys Z and how much HP do you think he is pushing? 1600 is steep for the Gforce T5 but the one time "bullet proof" expense may be worth it. i tend to break stuff

i agree. bang for the buck bolt on heads....... vortec all the way. they are about 500 bucks but work great stock. u can ebay the intake for at least 50 bucks and pawn off your heads cheap too. the self aligning rockers are cheap. besides...... get the roller rockers for the 180 bucks... money well spent.

i love that cowl hood

well hopefully the drilling will be easy as I have a right angle drill. of course i have no air compressor anymore....... hmmm. guess i'm gonna have to scour the yard sales and get a little one to get my air tools going. d/a sander in particular. lots of surface rust to get rid of. i am gonna see if my buddy will let me use his portable sand blaster. that'll save me some serious hours and pain.

ps. instruction said that brackets were labeled L and R. BS no marking at all. thanks fro tip on the welded peice. thats the kind of info i'll be needing

I remember reading/viewing you son's swap when you did it actually. I spent a lot of time searching forums for the photos but was searching for Ian and not Miles. Makes sense now. Do you happen to recall..... my brackets appear to made using 2 inch box tubing. in pics yours appear to be more of a rectangle. illusion or actual difference? yes the instructions are a joke. my vacuum cleaner instrucitons were much more extensive and professional. i love the MSA kit cause its so much more simple. I will likely weld the brackets down after assembly is fitted. I'll likely also make a solid motor mount to bolt to that bracket. I wanted to make an all custom set... however, i will likely bolt it in and never look back when reality comes into play. Just glad to made one step in right direction. very excited and waiting for my motorcycle to sell before I can do my motor.