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ihatejoefitz

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Posts posted by ihatejoefitz

  1. This is where the opposition always tries to take these threads (I have seen threads like this on every forum I frequent, even this one.)

     

    Now my real point it this. If I have a car which I want a REALLY nice finish! If I am willing to put a lot of my time into painting my car 50-100 hours. If I want my cars paint to look like a sheet of glass! Like it's wet and I can see my reflection 15 feet into the quarter panel. If I plan on keeping my car for a really long time maybe never selling it ever!! If I plan on driving my car every week in the sun!! If I want my paint job after 10-40 years to look like it was just painted the night before well then I am forced to use some better materials. That is my point. I don't want anyone here on this forum to be convinced that they will achieve these things with 50 dollar rustoleum paint. That's all!!

     

    The problem with your point is, that it isn't relevant. Nobody even hinted that this was a solution that could compete with a big money paint job, and I don't believe you thought somebody would mistake it as such. So why would you even bring it up other than to knock the idea completely?

     

    This system is clearly a viable option that has already proven that it can stand the test of time.

     

    I believe this rusto paint job is 5 or 6 years old in this pic.

    DSC00194.jpg

     

    I've seen several $3000 paint jobs come out looking worse than that on day one.

     

    -Joe

  2. Crispy chicken, I have to admit your post bothered me a little. Im not sure why, maybe its just the wording you used? Though i will admit i highly respect the effort youre trying to put into your project. I just want to say the "hard" (lengthy, expensive, extravicant, whatever) way isnt always the better way. And while cheap crappy paint may be just cheap crappy paint, its important to point out that not all things "cheap" are "crappy".

     

     

    I agree, there is undoubtedly some animosity over this issue which I don't understand. This is a DIY forum, yet every time the subject of roll on paint comes up there are people who are strongly opposed to the idea. This would be understandable on a ferrari forum, but here on hybridz we are talking about datsuns! Most of us got our cars for next to nothing because that is what they are worth. Why would we spend thousands on a paint job?

     

    The issue of longevity I think should be put to rest. Numerous testimonials showing Rustoleum being effictive as long as conventional paint have been posted. I think the same goes for durabilty and ability to hold shine.

     

    What more can you ask for? Cheap, effective paint that can be put on with inexpensive tools.

  3. So anyway here is the plan I bought an SSAutochrome kit a while back and I had the local turbo shop take a look at it and after they gave me the thumbs up it was destined for my project. To tell the truth I don't know why this kit caught a bad rep.

     

    Its got a bad rep because it came from ssautochrome. You can find the reasons why this sellers parts are a waste of space are all over the internet, including this site. That being said, some people have "luck" with some of his parts.

  4. Well the engine is good owner said that it ran about 2-3 yrs ago. Dosen't matter to me. I'm going to put in a SR20DET in it......I just need body work done on it and I can do the rest....

     

     

    That is a good idea, get your mounts all fabbed up (save the diagrams or just make two sets), get the sr20 in there, get it running, get ahold of all the parts you need to make it run. By the time you get all that work done, you will realize that this car is not an ideal canidate, you can then swap the engine into a nicer car.

  5. No offense, but if I were in your situation, I would probably part this car our and use the money to find a z in better condition. If this doesn't sound reasonable, I would upgrade with the idea that the parts could easily be switched to a better chassis when found. (i.e., engine mods, basic suspension mods.)

  6. From what I'm seeing that looks like a fine canidate for restoration. In my experience, flat tops can be made to perform as well as the rounds, but they are harder to maintain. If you decide to stick with those flat tops, buy a rebuild kit. If you decide to get round tops, get the 3 screw version.

  7. And Joe, I know saving time is important but wasting a few hours making my surge tank only cost me a sunday afternoon and about 8 dollars, I'm trying to save as much money as possible. Plus I'd never pass up a good opportunity to pull the welder out.

     

     

    Nice, work. That is probably 5 hours shorter than it would have taken me. But I'm usually multitasking :) (read drinking beer)

     

    p.s. I'm sorry to jack your thread, but I felt the need to post info regarding this particular tank because I noticed a lot less threads about it on zcar since the last time I searched over there.

  8. Where was this info when I was trying to figure out a surge tank solution.

     

    Have you tested this yet in a Z car? How big is that unit? Looks like a great solution to our problems if it works.

     

    Do you have a part number?

     

    I read about this part here and at zcar. I have not run it in the car, I went a different route. It is about the size of an oil filter. Part number is 9k044, its from an 86-90 ford bronco II. I tried to find a link to the site where I bought it from and it appears to no longer exist.

     

    Also, there used to be lots of info about this on zcar, but it's also NLA.

     

    -Joe

  9. HAHA, I love to see the people who try to speed through the merge lane get tickets. I may sound insensitve, but I have to deal with this on a daily basis because there is one on my route to school.

     

    I'm tempted more and more to make a stencil and mark the lane "******* lane" in this style:

    DSCF0030lane%20ends.jpg

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