v8wannabe2

I had to drop the gas tank to remove my rear bumper shocks. The rest should just unbolt.

When I quit I downloaded a little program (Quit Keeper)that kept track of the length of time, money saved, and # cigarettes NOT smoked. The # not smoked blew me away. @ 25/day 10days = 250, 40days=1000..that's a big pile of tobacco that grows fast! Hang in there it's worth it and the cravings become less & less.

Here's the latest update. I finished up the exhaust pipes, mounted the fuel cell, finished the steering wheel added gas/brake/clutch pedals. That yellow thing is the Optima battery. Car measures 28" L X 12" W. The paint took a beating, so it looks like I'll be doing that again, may change the color.

Can you remove the rubber filler to tank hose inside the fender and safely isolate it for welding?

I pulled mine off a car at the wreckers 10 years ago, it was held on with silicone and came off pretty easy. When I put it on my car 9.5 years ago I used silicone too and it's worked great. When I installed mine I remember using a bunch of bricks wrapped in towels and clamps on the edges to hold it in place while the silicone dried.

Here's an update, almost fininshed the NOS and the fuel cell. I carved up some 3/4 round rod in the lathe and welded a small nut on top for the handles, coat hangers for the lines (couldn't resist flaming the tanks). On left side of the last pic is a sneak preview of the steering wheel. Enjoy

Here's a pic of how I recessed my front bumper. Along with elongating the holes on the bumper struts.

Thanks Steeltoad, looks like Woodboxer would have to fabricate a new rear valance that is not only rolled down but would have to curve around the sides to blend in properly.

Can you post a pic? I don't know the details on what's under the bumper that you need to deal with. What happens if you simply remove the bumper and weld in metal to fill the bumper strut holes? Or do you want to remove the bumper cut out the rear valance and roll a flat piece of sheet metal to replace it with to totally smooth it out?

Thanks for the opinions. I've ruled out the chrome, the gloss black idea is great but I know I'll have to do a lot of metal work to get it flat & straight enough to look good....I've been trying to avoid that. I'm down to a decision between the flat and semi gloss, kinda leaning towards flat.

Here's a few pics of my full cap, hope it helps

Here's mine

Careless, thank you!! that looks great. I'd probably run them farther down the car, including more color down the side.

Some-guy, I probably have 250-300 hours into it, I doubt that anyone would make an offer that would make it worth my while. Just to tease ya a little more....here's a pic of a Countach body I started.

Thanks guys. Flames 187 if you have questions, fire away and I'll try to answer them. Mason4300, I might do a steering wheel but that will be about it. I don't want to cover up the mechanicals. I started a roll cage at one point but it interferred with the body lines too much. This is where I borrowed the idea from, I didn't have the $12,000 for their body (trelis as they call it) or the $30,000 for the motor so I built my own. http://www.terzodalia.com/cat_main_eng.asp?par=cat_tel_250gto_eng.html There some interesting history behind these at the Ferrari factory. Full size versions were made so the hand formed body parts could be built/checked on such great cars as the 250GTO.

Glad I could give you a chuckle DavyZ, I posted the pic to show that there is no rocket science behind it. Cost me around $20 for the paint and a couple hours work. Pick up some spray bombs (red, orange, yellow) cut up a piece of cardboard and flame up the kitchen stove for practice. Here's a pic of my other "hot rod", this was one of my first creations.