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Then it would be best to go with a WC upgrade as apposed to swapping the transmissions. Thanks guys!

Nor do they have the resistors. I have a new CHTS on order today so we will see, this is making me nuts as no matter what I check as per tests from the FSM all is well. It tends to make one a bit crazy lol. Thanks for your help guys.

I knew it wouldnt be long at that price till that motor sold, if I had the cash on hand I would have bought it in a second flat. Someone is going to be very happy with there new motor.

It was reading at the time, ( it was outside) was 5.5 ohms, which according to the chart in the FSM would coincide approxiamately with the temp of about 10*. Could the new part possibly be bad? Also, why would 2,3 and 5 cylinders load with more fuel then the others? If you can guess or hypothesise at this? Thanks for your reply.

Well here is the scenario, was out on a drive one night, the car, an 82 ZX turbo. Well I had ran through a large puddle that had soaked the AFM, the the care exhibited problems of a wet AFM. Would not rev above 2500 to 3000 rpms, rough idle. Lots of black smoke and running well very rich of course. Plugs were fouled with fuel and carbon. So I had removed all the plugs put in new ones cleaned out the AFM, dried all connections, the car would not start, it will crank, has spark, but will not turn over. I had this problem before and it turned out to be the CHTS, but this time it wasnt. I had replaced the aftermarket CHTS with a good new Nissan one, no change, aslo found through FSM tests that the AFM was bad, well only the air temp sensor, and have subsequently replaced that. The new unit has no know problems and according to FSM tests for the AFM, says its all good. When I did get it to run, it would run, and without the fuel pump, when the fuel was hooked up it woudl die out. The regulator is good and keeping a 30#'s of pressure at idle. It would start and run with the off but hooking it up would almost flood it dead. So today, I replaced temp sensors one had a bad wire, the other was old so figured why not, CHTS is new, AFM is good, new temp sensors, but yet the car will flood the cylinders out and not fire, It will try to but just wont turn over. On an interesting note, cylinders 2, 3 and 5 were very wet with fuel, and 1, 4 and 6 were not as wet. 1,3 and 5 meaning were extremly wet with fuel, could i have stuck injectors, thing is though they were working fine before any of this happened. The car ran well and had no problems at all till this stupid puddle! Thanks for any ideas

That kit that came on the 180SX with the datsun Z front end, though that looked pretty class, and kind of updated without being out of time with the vehicle.

So are you saying all in all that the bell from the L6 will not bolt to the Z31 tranny, or would it? Are there any other differences besides the obvious?

No one has tried or done this then?

I would think that you would have to have the whole assembly balanced each time that you change your clutch. That could get expensive.

That is unbelievable, wish the torque numbers were higher though to match its hp, still thats incredible, indeed!

I agree with ON3GO, I search here sometimes and I cannot find the simplest of things that I search for. Im wondering if the thing on this site that could really use an update is the search engine, make it simple and easy, it is much to compicated lol. For example which forum to search, what word or phrase your searching for, and or by poster. Though ours currently has that it seems really hard to get it right or you have to type exactly what you want as it was posted or you dont get anything. Maybe then again its just me? See here is a perfect example, I typed in the search menu, exactly what was posted. Five lug disk brake upgrade. This is what I got in return Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms. The following words are either very common, too long, or too short and were not included in your search : five

Someone over at Zcar tested a starion ic ages ago, there was a 3psi drop across the ic at 10# of boost. To me that says a lot! I also dont want to get off topic, but where did you or your significant other get that watch ??? I want it!!!

Would this work, from all the sites that I have visited so far, the 84-86 Z31 trubo clutch is the same part number as the S130 turbo clutch, same tooth count as well. What I was wondering is, would the Z31 turbo transmission bolt up to the S130 bell housing and then into the motor? I have been looking at the gear ratios and the seem a lot better for the Z31 then the borg T5 unit i currently have in my car. better first and second gears. Anyone ever try? or do this?

Yes I believe its at least a 8 inch rim required to properly run 245 50's

That was when I had started using Mobil1, not sure if it is the synthetic or not, probably the combination of the two since the motor still has the stock turbo on the car, with 192K on the clock.

I would start with the suspension first then go from there. Always a good thing to set up for power first then power first and set up later.

Looking pretty good to me for what you got it for, nice car!

My ZX is at 2750lbs and i have removed the ac, spare and so on, lighter wheels and all i can get it to is the above stated weight. With ic stock dp, 2.5 mandrel exhaust, lsd, fpr, Ive made a best time of 13.49 at 101.9 that was boosted to 15#'s

No the fuel pressure is good and been checked with a pressure gauge, and wouldnt the pressure show on that gauge if the return was clogged? I understand what you mean about the air temp sensor, I did have one but I sold it like a dumbmy though or I would have it to test. There is a good yard here that has one for me for 40 dollars, so the are reputable, and will take a retrun if it is a failed part no questions. I did also find that really weird how it was running like that unless on the other note it was just sucking past the fuel pump but that would be strange as well, sucks as it was all good till the moment I hit that huge puddle. Thats what I get for taking her out in the rain lol.

Update, from what I have gotten from the FSM the AFM isnt bad less the one part of it, which is the air temp sensor. The FSM states that the reading should be between 2.1-2.9 ohms. I have a reading of 3.5 ohms. The rest of the AFM tested well. Also on the new Nissan CHTS I had gotten I tested it as well as per the FSM, 2.1-2.9 ohms as well, it read yesterday at 5.5 ohms, now the FSM also has a chart with ohm to temperature reading, and it should have been at 5.5 ohms with the temp at 32 degrees. So there Im a bit confused. Now would the air temp sensor if it is bad as the FSM says, would it cause the care to flood out as it has been doing? I would think it is more then just that because when I do get it running, (that is I have to remove the plugs, clean and dry them off, blow out the cylinders of gas) it will start after a few tries with the fuel pump unplugged. Once I plug the fuel pump in it gets extremely rich and kills the motor. Now the AFM did get wet, but I dont get how it is running so badly when it was perfect just two days ago, is it just that it might have shorted the air temp sensor, could that be causing all of these problems? I did try to adjust the AFM but had no response from it at all, Im thinking im just needing a all new AFM since I cannot even find a air temp sensor anywhere. Any thoughts?

You know though by the same token ebay has gotten really high on there costs compared to what they were when they started, not to mention selling a car on there now is crazily priced.

The car is a 82 280zx turbo, with a no start. Stock electronics, problem started when the AFM got wet, car ran as would be expected with a wet afm. Dried afm, still no start, had a cheap after market, CHTS, thought it might be that so bought a new Nissan unit. still no start. Cleaned afm thoroughly, dried and new plugs and started over still no start. Great spark, fuel a plenty, yet nothing. I removed the fuse from the fuel pump, pulled all plugs, blew out the cylinders, replaced plugs, started the car, no start, again no start, then third try it started, without a fuel pump running, stayed running for 5 minutes. Hooked fuel pump back up, car flooded and died. According to the fuel pressure gauge, the fuel pressure was dead on at 36lbs. w/vacumn removed. Could my AFM now be shot? Any suggestions? Thanks for any help.

So tell me why my af ratio is so high??? Last night I had to make a late run, it was raining, and i hit this big puddle, I dont have a sheild under the engine bay, and it soaked the afm. Well it started to do what it would normaly do when you get the afm wet. Chug at about 2500 to 3000 rpms. I limp it home down the highway at a massive 2500 in 5th it was a fun little trip. Anyway I get it home wait till morning heat up the garage and get to work, Pull the afm off and clean it out, dry everythign off and yet Im still having the same symptoms as a wet afm Runs like crap at above 2500 rpms and the smell of gas is very strong. Is there something Im missing? Everything is dry, all connections are clean, and I want to say it almost acts like it has a bad CHTS. The CHTS is only 4 months old though. So I wouldnt think that it would be that but it could be. Im at a total loss as to what is going on, it was running complety fine till i hit that puddle. On another note when I rev the motor if I hold back the spring on the afm it will run properly. By the same token, if I try to do any adjustments to the wheel at all they have no effect what so ever. Forgot to mention, I guess knowing what the vehicle is would help also, it is a 82 ZX turbo, with stock electronics, intercooler, no other additions. Anyone have an idea, Im up for any. Thanks! Well I had bought a new CHTS, tested fine, tested the AFM fine, I have spark, I have ignition, I have fuel. Yet still the car will not start. Still lost, what could it be?

I was doing some research and found the the runners on the stock intake for a turbo Z are smaller then the intake ports on the head itself. Is this true? If so what or how can you resolve this? Would the intake runners take a porting to match the ports on the head throughout or would it even be worth it? Would it be better to go to a custom made intake?

Of some sort on a 1982 280 ZX Turbo, its under the glove box area, closest to the radio. What is there that could be leaking, Ive found a few lines but no bubbles from spraying a bubbly mix of detergent and nothing visual. Any ideas?