Cable

I am seriously thinking about leaving my LQ4 out of my car and tossing in an extra 5.3 I have sitting in my garage at this point... That why I don't trash my fresh 6.0 in an accident...

What year was the 5.3? I ask because no Gen III 5.3 had flat top pistons prior to going to Gen IV and even then the only 5.3's that had 243 heads (same used on the LS6/LS2) got flat tops, the rest had dish pistons. So if your 5.3 is a Gen III, I'd be willing to bet its really a 4.8 litre, although it was sold to you as a 5.3 (a common scam these days). Both 4.8's and 5.3's share the same block. The stroke (and rod length) is the primary difference between the 4.8/5.3. The 4.8 has a stroke of 3.267". The 5.3 has a 3.622" stroke, which is also the same stroke for all other LS series engines except the 427 LS7 (4.00"). Unless the pan is pulled to check crankshaft casting numbers, there is no easy way to tell the difference. If you can get the casting number off the '5.3' crankshaft, I can confirm the stroke in a few seconds.

Next time throw your 5.3 dished pistons (along with the 5.3 rods) in the 4.8 and you'll lower the compression even more.

Hey guys, most of you veterans already know I own a '75 Datsun Z powered by a 2005 LQ4, mild Lunati Voodoo cam 60511 (.567/.567", 222/228 dur, 113 LSA), Comp pushrods, and LS6 valve springs. I am also running a stock LS1 intake manifold, Bosch 42# 'Green Top' injectors, and a Walbro 255 pump in the tank. The TB is the stock DBW unit for the LQ4. Everything is tuned with HP Tuners software (I own) using a wideband O2 input. I am also running a 4L60e (2004 GTO) with the stock converter and 3.90 rear gears with a Torsen style LSD. The car already runs 11.9 @ 117 mph in the quarter on regular street tires shifting at 6300 RPM. Now that I've had the same setup for a bit, I am interested in messing around with a mild turbo setup for the car. I already had plans is to yank the engine to replace the stock torque converter and replace it with a new billet 3200 stall unit (I was going to do this even if staying N/A since I already own the converter). While the engine is out I figured I would install a set of Katech rod bolts for a little extra insurance. I'll also go ahead and pull the pan (LS2 Corvette pan) and weld in a -10 AN bung for a turbo oil return. I plan on leaving the Voodoo cam installed, even though I know it isn't an ideal turbo grind. As far as the turbo setup I am going to use a Holset HX50 that I already own (67mm compressor & 77mm exhaust wheels), a set of new LS3 Corvette manifolds (flipped) from a crate motor, and 2.5" mandrel bent stainless tubing (hopefully one piece for each side) from each of the manifolds to each side of my modified T4 stainless flange (for use with the HX50). I already own a rebuild kit for the HX50 from BAE, I will bead blast and clean the housings, and have the wheels balanced before reassembly, I might even polish the compressor housing for the hell of it. I know the Holset HX50 turbo prob isn't ideal, but its what I have to work with (free), can't afford anything else right now, and figured it'd be better than a Chinese GT45 off eBay. Worse case, I'll run the Holset until I can afford something more modern from Garrett, Precision, etc. The car is not an all out race car nor will it ever be. I have raced it from time to time, but mostly its just my cruiser on my days off. In other words, making 'all-out' power is not a concern. I'll prob use a Cobalt SS (turbo) 2-Bar MAP sensor and run a Speed-Density tune to keep things simple. I am also going to run an intercooler out front and/or maybe meth injection instead (opinions?). I'll be keeping the boost in the 6-8 psi range for street driving (91 octane) and maybe as high as 12 psi with 100+ octane gas on race nights. Of course the A/F ratio will be a tad rich side and the timing/advance curve will be kept on the conservative side to keep everything happy and alive. When its all said and done I would be more than happy with a 10.9 second pass on drag radials (which I now own) while maintaining the awesome street manners the car already has. Okay guys, what do you think? Take care.

I think he meant new, non the reman crap sold at the chain stores. I have never had good luck with any reman master cylinder for any of the various cars I've owned, especially when they are aluminum. Find a new one and save yourself a headache later.

Need a brake master cylinder for a '79-'80 280zx due to larger piston to move more fluid for the Toyota 4 piston calipers.

It always puzzles me why folks go through the trouble of putting that much power through a S30 (or any other car for that matter) w/o any plans to actually race it. However, any amount of hard shifting will destroy you stock axles and/or stub axles in short order. Usually the ujoints are the weakest link and will keep you from breaking stub axles, for the time being.... Since you didn't provide details of the engine, I'll assume its a LS3 headed long block stroker and/or forced inducted in some fashion or another because there is no was a stock LS3 with any amount of cam or bolt on (except F/I) is going to produce 560 TQ at any RPM. Your best cost effective route is goibg to be long nose R200 with an OBX LSD (with mods listed in DriveTrain sticky), Z31 Turbo CV axles, MMS's Z31 billet companion flanges, and MMS's billet stub axles.

I've run meth before, a progressive setup (fancy Hobbs switch) from Snow Performance is the only way to fly. More or less the volume of meth being sprayed increases as the amount of boost increases, regardless of the pedal position.

If I ever go turbo, I'd want the intercooler for street driving and meth injection for WOT track racing.

Then I'd lean toward a defective pump. If the brushes are bad or the vains are rubbing the pump housing, the motor will work extra hard and in turn be extra loud.

The external pumps are always noisy due to the fact they aren't muffled by the tank and/or the fuel itself. I recently replaced my stock GM in-tank pump (running a '02 Z28 tank in my Z) with a Walbro 255 and noticed its much louder than the stock pump.

I am glad you were able to keep the downpipe from going under the engine crossmember. Another question, what are the dimensions of the intercooler you used (either overall or just core measurements)?

That can't be quiet in the city or highway. Plus I'd worry about too much exhaust entering the car. If I ever go turbo, I would want to run the exhaust all the way out the back to my existing dual exhaust via a single 3" to dual 2.5" Y-Pipe. Do you have pics of your old down pipe where ot routed from the turbo flange back to the trans area? Lastly, how much stall you running in the TH350?

Unless you are going turbo, the bat-wing oil pan is worthless to you in this swap. My advice is to attempt to sell it to at least get your money back. I already posted which oil pans will work with the S30's and maintain proper ground clearence. Take care.

Another run at the top...

Prices have jumped to $50+ each. Too bad they still aren't $22.

Are you planning on ever running the exhaust out toward the back or leaving it 'as is'?

Nope, go right ahead.

No worries, thank you for the loyalty though.

No worries about stepping on my toes. I wasn't able to deliver in a timely manner so I don't blame you guys for seeking out other options. I wasn't even able to find stainless collectors for less that $100 each and the flanges were about $100 a pair. So if your guy can churn out a pair with stainless flanges and collectors for less than $1000, more power to you. I wasn't doing this as a business venture, I was just wanting to help this community, so I am pleased to 'pass the torch' to you. I wish you well and I will gladly buy a pair (as needed/requested) for my S30 LSx customers as well. Good luck and if you have any questions on my designs, I am more than wiling to share. Take care.

If you searched here on Hybridz and didn't fi d what you are looking for, you might have better luck searching LS1Tech for PCM/harness questions. www.LS1Tech.com

Again guys, no worries, I totally understand.

As of right now all sets are going to be in 1.75" primaries. The 2" would only be attempted if so requested. Personally I think the 2"primaries would be more trouble than its worth. The shop I am dealing with now only has stainless steel mandrel dies so stainless is the only choice. However the header flanges might be mild steel. Cost is a huge factor on that since the stainless header flanges are much more expensive.

No worries dude, totally understandable. Take care.

No. The original driver side header prototype header is being retained by my former business partner. I didn't even ask to use it since he operates a business and as such would like to make a profit which would only drive the cost up even more. So I am starting over, although I am sure the driver side will look very much like the last one I built back in Oct 2010. Everything else is correct, one week turnaround, $1000 + actual shipping to your location in the U.S.