Cable

Alright guys, change of plans. The business partner I had in doing the headers has too much on his plate right now to finish them. So, I starting looking at other options today... So far I found one shop who is willing to build them for about $1000 a set. Still stainless steel and in 1.75" primaries and maybe 2.00" if there is enough room for them. I understand that is double what I originally though, but I wanted to at least follow through with the headers. Please understand that I will not be making a single penny off these headers as I am doing this for the sole purpose of helping this community. I am sorry that I cannot provide a set closer to the originally planned $500 area. I am sure if I can get the shop to produce a template to keep on hand the price will come down some. I know that no one ever wants to be first, but if any of your are serious in going further, please let me know and I will gladly provide my Z as the prototype template for the shop. I can't even afford a set right now (if I want to stay married anyway...). They told me each set will take about a week to complete, shipping will be extra based on location.

The PCM is located on the passenger side behind the strut tower.

There had to be some other factor involved in order to break one of those axles with just a 1.7 60ft. There are more than a few guys cutting 1.50 or better with the same axles.

I have no idea exactly what you need, but none should require thread sealer.

Yup. It can been changed though.

Someone say my name? Although it is possible to modify the harness yourself for stand-alone operation, I find its well worth it to have a third party take care of that part of my customers swaps. The company I use for ALL personal LSx and customer's LSx swaps is www.Wait4MePerformance.com. They are just a 'Mom & Pop' shop, but for the money they can't be beat IMO. Jess does the tuning and Hannah does the harnesses and usually answers the phone. I am not sure what they will charge you (I get a special pricing due to the volume of business I do with them, plus they don't do any PCM work I do my own tuning with my own software), but it should be under $400 to modify the factory GTO harness for stand-alone operation and unlock and delete the no longer needed items from the PCM. When the harness comes back, ever single wire has a label on it so you know where it goes. You are more than welcome to drop my name when contacting them too, it prob won't be any cheaper, but it wouldn't hurt either. As always, if you have any further questions, feel free to call me or email me. Take care.

Updates?

Seriously dude? It took me 10 seconds to find it on my content. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79622-its-official-i-own-another-s30-except-this-time-going-lsx/

Do a search under my profile and look at my LSz Build thread. There are pics and details on me using a '02 Z28 gas tank.

http://jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Chevrolet_TPI_TBI_V-8.html

Nope. Zero issues when running the cowl hood with the truck FEAD.

Umm, why? There are much more modern manuals if one was looking for a 'Fuel Injection for Dummies'. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Swap-Engines-Almost-Anything-Design/dp/1932494812

Are you planning on doing a turbo setup using these headers in the flipped/reverse position?

Sounds right to me. Brand new crank pulley? If so, everything is good to go. The reason it looks odd is because the used units will rust a tad on any bare metal left exposed.

Beating the crank pulley on with a hammer will MURDER the thrust bearings in the engine. I have a specialized tool for re-installation, but I believe AutoZone and similar parts stores offer it in a 'loan-a-tool' fashion.

Make sure you use the correct puller to remove the crank pulley and the correct tool to re-install the crank pulley. Do not attempt to use the crank bolt to re-install the crank pulley because you'll just end up destroying the threads in the crank. I usually will smear some anti-seize inside the crank pulley before re-installing it. Seems to help it slide on easier while using the installer tool. Also, you can't reuse the stock crank bolt since they are TTY bolts (like the 10mm factory head bolts). When I am putting a motor together I just use some red loctite on the new crank bolt threads and set my impact to max torque and call it good. I've done 25+ engines this way and never had a problem.

Shorty's or long tubes?

What did it dyno at the wheels?

The passenger side is a definate no-go....

My mistake.

Someone lied to you about mods to the LS3. We just got done doing long tubes, cam, MagnaCharger on 8 psi, and dyno tune and it barely made 550 to the wheels. No way is the blower only good for 50 rwhp. Also, the 6.2 found in front of a 6L80 in 2010+ Camaro's aren't LS3's, they are L99's. More or less the same except lower HP, DoD, and VVT.

They will very likely run into the alternator (using a F-Body FEAD) on the driver side if I am understanding how you plan to install them.

Lots of guys here use a modified first gen Miata A-pillar pod. I bought one once, but didn't like how much it got in my line of sight. I ended up selling it. Some guys don't mind, to each his own I guess.

I own both style tanks, I hate to break it to you that it is prob possible, but not likely to be easy. The basic tank shape is the same from '93-'02. The similarities end there. However as they say, the devil is in the details. The '93 to '98 tanks are steel and the '99-'02 tanks are plastic. After that the pickup/sender is completely different. The early style bolts to the tank with about 10 nuts on studs coming from the tank. The later style uses a ring that rotates clockwise to secure the pickup assembly to the tank. I think you'll spend more time and money trying to make a 0-90 ohm gauge work vs just selling/returning your 0-90 ohm gauge and buying the programmable gauge and be done with it. But that of course is up to you.

About $90.