Rival5

SHHH!!!! SPOILERS!!!! Mountain Time Here. Happy New Year Alll!!!

xonix_digital install the grommets back in early July so hopefully he isn't having problems with them already. I used the isolation mounts; as a stop gap I plan to use some foil tape and then eventually maybe use some aluminum angle to fill the gap. My car is going to be on blocks for a while longer so filling the gap isn't too high on my priority list.

I run SolidWorks and Draftsight(AutoCAD) at work and at home and wouldn't mind putting some time into some models.

This is how I mounted my 26"x19" aluminum radiator in my 77 280Z: I had some 1" Aluminum Angle welded to the tanks and used some rubber sandwich isolators (McMaster-Carr #9213K63) to bolt them to the front support. I was able to reuse stock bolt holes on the front support. I also bent and welded a cradle to support the bottom of the radiator out of Aluminum. I put santoprene (McMaster-Carr # 86215K56) strips in the cradle to isolate the cradle from the core of the radiator. Here's a model of the radiator mount assembly. Here's the cradle. I initially intended to bend the cradle from one piece as the model shows but found it easier to stitch weld the 1" front and back lips instead. The sandwich isolators puts a 5/8" gap that between the radiator and the front support that should be filled. This is in my project car with an 89 mustang 5.0. With everything installed i have about 1.5-2.0 inches between my radiator fan motor (Ford Taurus 2 speed) and the engine pulleys.

Would you be willing to share a stl/obj file or even the Rhino 3DM file of your part?

For a personal use milling vise I would go with a Jergens 80075 manual 6" vise. Its $515 retail, I use then in production fixturing and have had good experience with them. If you have the money Kurt vises are great but your starting at $1000 for a 6" manual vise. For angle cuts you can angle the head of the mill or get a sine vise depending on the accuracy that you need. I wouldn't get a sine vise for your main vise, they are not rigid enough for daily milling jobs.

I'm in Prescott (northwest of Phoenix) and have family and friends down in Phoenix and Tucson. Let me know where and I'll see what I can do.

You say two rounds above interrupter, that does not sound right to me. Here's a video of the internal working of the mosin. Does the interrupter get out of the way with the stock off?

When I was in Tucson I had good dealings with Micro Import Services at 1033 N. Catalina Avenue. You could give them a call.

From experience I can tell you that 90-95% of CNC operator jobs are just that, operators. All they do is hit the green button to run the machine, check parts (calipers, height gages, GO/NOGO gages) and do tool offsets. They do that all day running maybe 3-5 different types of parts all day, its very repetitive. Small job shops you can be the programmer and operator, but the pay still isn't the greatest unless, like Tony D stated, the shop has a niche with a high work and cash flow. I graduated recently with a Mechanical Engineering Degree and it is more theoretical while in school. But what you do with it decides how much hands on work you do. Student programs like SAE and ASME allow you to design and build many different projects. During summer breaks I worked at small job shops doing manual machining and CNC programming and operating. Now I work in the manufacturing world and get to design and troubleshoot fixtures in our manufacturing processes so I can and do get my hands dirty. CC is a good place to start. That is where I took all of my classes (PIMA CC) to learn manual and CNC machining and welding. If you like the manual machining then a trade school is where you would want to start you apprenticeship to start a career. Almost all machinists do the apprenticeship for manual machining then learn CNC as they go. If you want to be a CNC programmer also take manual machining classes. Programming is pretty easy but you still need to know the best practices for machining materials to be a good CNC programmer. A CNC programming position can be a $15-30 position depending on the company. You should also take CAD and CAM classes if possible. A lot of CNC programming is done with the aid of a CAM program, and will be needed more and more in the future. Machine with multiple axises (4 and up) are becoming cheaper and its to the point where a person can not program a machine (5 and up) without a CAM program. Could you imagine trying to program that by hand? I would check out some classes at a CC and find out if you like it.

Welcome to the site. Not everyone here is so sarcastic but searching will be your friend. There is tons of info here and some people are really sensitive to repeating info. Alsil used to make a engine cradle for the sbf, not sure if anyone took over for him. I've seen a similar setup here that uses a bolt on crossmember between the engine mounts. The dimensions were given so you could make your own, I don't think Alsil's measurements are available. http://zcar.netdojo.com/ Thats Alsil's website. Get a shop to make a drive shaft and put ford and datsun ends on them and you will be fine for a stock sbf. Good Luck!

HybridZ I believe is the most active for converted Z's. Some other Z forums are: Classic Zcar CLub http://www.classiczcars.com/modules/Jig/index.php Zcar http://www.zcar.com/forums/ NICO Club http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeroforum/167 Doing Ford conversions is not as common so there is a lot less traffic in those sections for any site that talks about it. Ruger fan? Me too. But I'm biased, I work there.

I don't think the 4.6L uses the same mounts. From what I understand the 351W (and 351C) share the 289/302 motor mounts and bellhousing bolt patterns. You should be able to swap in a 289, 302, and 351W using the same mounts. Your drive shaft would depend on the tranny you use, most likely you will need to change it. You would just need to watch for hood and exhaust clearance issues.

I'm using Al's crossmember currently. It worked well for me though I did cut it and make it deeper so I could use my oil pan. My car isn't running yet but the motor and tranny are bolted in. Not sure what advice youre looking for. *EDIT* Nevermind looks like your motor is already in. Looking good shows me for not reading all the posts. Good Luck.