Dan Juday

"Puller" fans are more efficient. It has more to do with the properties of air low. Your get better flow over a heat exchanger (in this case a radiator) by inducing a low pressure over the back side and drawing the air through it. Trying to "push" the air through the front creates much more turbulence and much less actual air flow per unit of energy consumed by the fan motor. If you look at any industrial heat exchanger, like say your home air conditioner, you will see this is how they are all designed. It's just the characteristics of fluid dynamics. With cars though, things like proper engineering take a back seat to style and packaging. Oh, and having the obstruction of the fan assembly in front of the radiator isn't any worse than having it behind the radiator. Wherever it is in the path of the air flow it will be a restriction.

I would encourage you to make a mold. You might be able to sell one or two if the design is a hit. But make the motivation for your effort your car and not hopes of making money. I like the idea of options. I have a fiberglass dash cap that was designed for the Tomahawk Z kit, I like the fact that it is different and gives me a place to mount another gauge.

9. Spring rates.

That's the only German car that churns my juices. The wife loves them too. She likes the coupe and would be happy with the V8. Much cheaper but still not close enough for my budget. When I first saw one in person I was surprized at how small the car is. They look much larger in pictures, at least to me.

Just my experiance, yours may vary: I've lived in California all my 50 years and I have never run a front plate on any of my personal cars and trucks. I just think they look ugly. I always keep the plate somewhere in the vehicle and I have a prepared story for the officer, "I've ordered the mounting bracket but it hasn't come in yet". But I have NEVER been been bothered about it from any type of officer. Never even asked. I've been pulled over for other infractions (it's been quite a while since the last time) but none were ever interested in checking my front plate.

+2 Just tell me where to send the check. I'm also up for replacements for the interior plastic trim panels. And the rear interior quarter panels with the vapor tank bump removed.

You will want to reinforce the underside of the top of the strut tower with a plate similar to the one on top. Otherwise the entire weight of the front of the car is held with the four nuts on each camber plate. This was discused in another thread on GC camber plate installs. Otherwise it looks like great stuff.

Shouldn't be too big a challenge for bodgers like us. It would certainly solve the tire/spring clearance issue. The belcrank introduces some camber change issues too but they may be negligible. Maybe even beneficial.

Things change when you lower a car. Things like camber, caster, roll centers. The lower you go the more they change. I'm sure, for liability reasons, T3 is doing a little CYA by recommending a maximum 30mm drop.

If you have adjustable coilovers and your plan is to lower the car it shouldn't be an issue. Now, there are always other issues that come with lowering but that is considered part of the deal.

PM sent.

That "mini-Z" is not pretty. Maybe the Chinese will like it, it's being built for them and other emerging markets. We likely won't see it, thank God.

Rubber can indead seriously abraid metal. I work on belt driven blower systems (HVAC) and we replace sheaves all the time because the rubber belts have worn out the steel sheaves and pullies.

Just to confirm Leon's assertion: That is a 1972 and later R180 bar. I whipped out my JTR book (7th ed. page 6-5) and your picture #2 matches the books picture exactly. And all S30's after the diff-shift rearward had the curved rear crossmember. Might be worth your while to just pick up an R200 bar while you have everything apart. The enlarged holes in the bar you have look like they may have be done with a torch. Not unheard of since the bar is spring steel and tears up drill bits. If it was done with heat that bar is likely weakened in that area.

There is a difference in the rear quarters as well. The 240 has recesses that the bumper ends tucks into on each side. The 280 is smooth sided other than the mounting holes. This may be what the OP is referring to.